C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

My ‘94 LS thread.

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Old Apr 16, 2021 | 08:45 PM
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Default My ‘94 LS thread.

Just recently I bought a ‘94 from a fellow board member and after getting the car which was a project I decided to do a conversion. It has the Z07 option with J55 brakes. Cosmetically it needs loves but this post is more for the mechanical end of things. One question I do have is, can I get a conversion kit so I can retain the ZF transmission? I don’t really want to switch to the T56 if I can help it. Here’s some pics as it starts. At this point we were able to see a bunch of wires that were crimped, others that had hit the exhaust and started to melt. Right now the engine bay is a mess, but with the front of the car off, it’ll be easier to clean and do some repairs from a previous accident. The wiring harnesses will be cleaned up and we will omit any unneeded wires. I ordered an ecm for a 2001 so I can use a cable throttle body. The new engine started its life as a cast iron LQ9 that I’m having bored to 6.2. Right now I’m having trouble sourcing an adapter an input shaft for my ZF. I’ll update my post as progress is made







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Old Apr 19, 2021 | 10:42 AM
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Welcome to the LS swapper club. I'm not an manual ZF expert but the bell housing should bolt to the back of the LS engine. My 85 vette has a LQ9/700R, everything bolted together just like it was suppose to with minimum issues. You probably have to source a flywheel/clutch to work, but it should work. The biggest issue is getting your electrical stuff to work with the LS engine. Mine was easy as the 85 has minimal electronics. I'm running the fast ez LS efi kit and the holley clearance oil pan.

If you go the LS3 route, get the LS3 pistons and LS3 821/823 heads (there is a truck version I forget the head #). You could also get the newer LY6 (6L with LS3 style heads), and just add a camshaft. You going drive by wire or by cable?
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Old Apr 19, 2021 | 11:41 AM
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Wiring won’t be an issue for me. I’m going with a harness made for conversions using a 411 computer. Using cable throttle body none of that fly by wire to complicate stuff. Heads are 799, I wasn’t going to use cathedral port but I got a deal in them so that’s the route I decided to go.
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Old Apr 19, 2021 | 12:43 PM
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Welcome to the club. I started with a stand alone harness and a 411 PCM. Then I pulled that out because I HATE HP Tuners with a passion. So now I have a Holley ECU and will never go back.
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Old Apr 19, 2021 | 02:32 PM
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If you aren't on it, the LS Swapped C4 group on facebook has a pretty good community. What are your power goals?

The ZF can be retained, but it never seems to be a one-size-fits-all operation. Usually you need a Quicktime bellhousing, and then figure out the clutch parts. I have a 4L60e in mine, so not 100% sure. You might want to take a hard look at whats better: keeping the ZF and converting or buying a T56 or 6060 and making that work. Think about if you will be pushing it and what it costs if you break or wear out the ZF. They are getting more scarce and expensive.

Mechanically, its not a hard swap, but it's a lot going into a tight package. I have a hoist, and there are still a lot of spots that are tight to get to.

Have you picked out an option for headers/exhaust?

My 92 build is almost done, its over on LS1tech

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...minator-x.html
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Old Apr 19, 2021 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Phobos84
Welcome to the club. I started with a stand alone harness and a 411 PCM. Then I pulled that out because I HATE HP Tuners with a passion. So now I have a Holley ECU and will never go back.
On my 72, I ran a 0411 for 2 years, and tuned with HP tuners. THe day the Terminator X was released, I bought it and haven't looked back. So much easier to tune and a lot of other benefits. So my C4 got a termiantor X from the start.

Of note, the Holleys are heavily backordered right now for many of the kit part numbers.
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Old Apr 20, 2021 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by haggar1850
If you aren't on it, the LS Swapped C4 group on facebook has a pretty good community. What are your power goals?

The ZF can be retained, but it never seems to be a one-size-fits-all operation. Usually you need a Quicktime bellhousing, and then figure out the clutch parts. I have a 4L60e in mine, so not 100% sure. You might want to take a hard look at whats better: keeping the ZF and converting or buying a T56 or 6060 and making that work. Think about if you will be pushing it and what it costs if you break or wear out the ZF. They are getting more scarce and expensive.

Mechanically, its not a hard swap, but it's a lot going into a tight package. I have a hoist, and there are still a lot of spots that are tight to get to.

Have you picked out an option for headers/exhaust?

My 92 build is almost done, its over on LS1tech

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...minator-x.html
Just read your LStech tread, nice build buddy. I built my own 3in exhaust as well. Best of luck, curious on how the stroked LS2 works out for you. I've been wanting to do a 408 with LS3 heads, but who knows. I have around 10000 miles on my LS swap without too many issues.

Last edited by Mike Holmen; Apr 20, 2021 at 12:28 PM.
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Old Apr 20, 2021 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by haggar1850
If you aren't on it, the LS Swapped C4 group on facebook has a pretty good community. What are your power goals?

The ZF can be retained, but it never seems to be a one-size-fits-all operation. Usually you need a Quicktime bellhousing, and then figure out the clutch parts. I have a 4L60e in mine, so not 100% sure. You might want to take a hard look at whats better: keeping the ZF and converting or buying a T56 or 6060 and making that work. Think about if you will be pushing it and what it costs if you break or wear out the ZF. They are getting more scarce and expensive.

Mechanically, its not a hard swap, but it's a lot going into a tight package. I have a hoist, and there are still a lot of spots that are tight to get to.

Have you picked out an option for headers/exhaust?

My 92 build is almost done, its over on LS1tech

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...minator-x.html
Thanks, I’ll be joining the page on Facebook! I’m thinking BRP hot rods long tube headers unless someone has a suggestion on them.

Last edited by Xmetal; Apr 20, 2021 at 07:45 PM.
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Old Apr 20, 2021 | 07:47 PM
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The 411 will be my starting point.who knows I may end up going with the Holley system eventually but for now to get it running with all the other money I have to spend on this build, I’m trying to be practical (if there is such a thing) and just see how reliable I can make it while keeping my wife happy, who I must say has been extremely supportive of this build.
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Old Apr 21, 2021 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Xmetal
The 411 will be my starting point.who knows I may end up going with the Holley system eventually but for now to get it running with all the other money I have to spend on this build, I’m trying to be practical (if there is such a thing) and just see how reliable I can make it while keeping my wife happy, who I must say has been extremely supportive of this build.
There are some very cost effective options out there that will allow you to use a factory 411 PCM. For example PCM Hammer or the Android version LS Droid. Both of these are free somftware. You do need to spend about $50 for the interface. If you are just removing VATS and eliminating SES codes on a stock engine then this is the way to go, no question.

But if you have any plans on a cam swap or any upgrade that requires tuning then you have an issue. The free software is very difficult to tune with. HP Tuners is better but extremely over priced because of the points system. And you still have to buy a wide band O2 if you are going to tune it yourself. So you're into it for around $700-800 just to get started. And you will need to re-use the old LS harness. So you will need to re-pin it to work as a stand alone. Or spend $350-400 on a aftermarket stand alone harness.

With the Holley if you don't need transmission control is $900. It comes with a wide band O2 and a brand new not chopped up harness. Also the self tune function is simply amazing. You will not need dyno tuning if this is a street car. So that saves you another $500 or so.

The Holley systems seem pricey but if you want engine mods just do the math. The Terminator is the most cost effective option if your not stock.
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