Anyone got any pictures on where I should place my mat sensor on the forced air system? Should I put as far out as the license plate? Any ideas out there?

 

Most put them on the right side of the filter housing. Take a look at this picture. You will see it on the right side.
http://biz.digicat.org/Pics/Forum/SGC/SGC2002_034.jpg

It's a big picture so it may take a few soconds to load.

:cheers:

 

My A-O Eng kit has a grommet built into it, you can see the MAT directly thru the front duct opening in this pic. I have more pics if needed of all the cutting required to fit the A-O setup. :D

 

This might be a stupid question, but does it hurt if you mat sensor gets wet? What about driving in the rain or just washing your car, especially being that close to the front, one would think that might cause false readings.

 

No problems yet, & it has gotten wet :D

No false readings I run Datamaster :)

 

Cool, thanks for the info. Now I will move mine way up front! :D

 

I bought my Forced Air kit used and it had a grommet right about where Superlund's is. I think that would be the best spot for it.

Superlund, did you modify your Forced Air license plate cover air intake or is that an off the shelf part? Looks :cool: .

 

I purchased it used & was told it was one of the few A-O Eng. built for their/customer race cars, as it does not have the air splitter/diffuser in the opening, also the duct is an oval shaped cross-section that measures 8" wide X 3" tall. I'm told the street version uses a round 3" duct? I don't know that for a fact though.
It took a major amount of surgery around the front bumper, Etc. to get that oval duct work to fit, I can't imagine the the average over-the-counter/mail order purchaser doing that much cutting. :crazy:
When my new wheels get here I'm going to take some new sig pictures, thanks for the compliment, lot of work involved there.
:cheers:

 

With regards to the relocated MAT sensor - correct me if I'm wrong - but the whole point is that it is relocated to keep the readings given by this sensor low (temperature) thus preventing power robbing timing retard - since the stock timing retard lasts quite a few seconds, and is quite a severe retard - NOW - if you've put in a new chip, or retuned with a hypertech etc, this can be corrected via new commands in the software, and thus negating the need to relocate this sensor. So why relocate it?

Just a thought.

:seeya

 

So re-program with scaled values I.E. 180 Deg=130 Deg Etc.
I don't remember a place to make that Adj in LT1 edit? Maybe Tunercat? I'm sure someone could do it that way. Mine is already setting there (up front), and I don't have to mess with scaled values in the PCM for the MAT/IAT, good point you make though. Do you know which tuning software supports the value change?
:)

 

No - admittedly, I do not know this info - Mine was tuned at LPE, so I didn't have to monkey with myself - but someone on this discussion should surely know.

:flag

 

Superlund, where did you come across that A/O forced air piece. I am interested in buying one like that. Do you have the number to A/O?
Thanks. :seeya

 

Do you have any more pics of this system? Like whats on the other side of the hood?
Pretty :cool:

 

lets see pictures from everybody that has this system. i would like to see pictures from various angles and the different kind of grate pieces it comes with. i am very interested in this system is it at all possible to remove the grate and temporarily install the origanal lisence plate cover and just use the ram air at the track so it looks like more of a sleeper? i wouldnt think it would be to hard to do.

 

I was wondering about this too, but I think the stock plate cover would choke it since the system is pretty much sealed up from the opening to teh throttle body.

 

DRAGRACR,
I purchased it on eBay, and no I have not been able to find a current phone # or web site for A-O Eng. Lingenfelter has them for sale on his site, but like I mentioned in a post above, they supposedly use a 3" round duct & have an air splitter/diffuser in the front scoop?

Bill M,
Yes I have quite a few installation/cutting involved pics, I'll post em' later this evening.

1996man & Bill M,
The real PITA is that you must hose-clamp the flex/coupling duct onto the front opening duct prior to putting it into the front bumper. So IMHO the thing to do would somehow make the stock cover fit over/into the front opening duct so you could just take it on & off. You would then need some sort of hidden door/opening in the air intake tract that you could uncover to allow air into the engine as this system is sealed from the front opening duct to the throttle body.

:seeya

 

Here is mine. My sensor is just like the above picture, right up front. And mine has gooten wet many times.... no problems.

 

Man, I couldn't concentrate on your forced air thingy, too many distractions in that pic :eek:

I've got to quit screwing around posting here & go get some Hooter's chick's in my sig pic. :p:

Really very :cool:

 

i guess that idea for a door in the ducting is a good idea but i didnt know exactly how much air it really needed to just run.... i mean obviously its gonna perform a lot better with the origanal lisence plate cover off but i would think with how closed up the stock air bow is that a lisence plate cover over a ram air system wouldnt be to detramental. at least not any worse than stock?

 

My system does have the 3" round ducting superlund mentions, mine slip fits over a plastic insert that connects to the license plate duct cover. As long as you dont cut away the lower provisions for the securing screws for the front cover you can replace the front duct with the standard license plate cover easily. I have done this myself multiple times when I thought I might be caught in rain because I was scared of getting water in the motor. I have left the duct in place when I replaced the front cover and to be honest my butt dyno can't tell any difference, then again my butt dyno can't feel a difference between my old K&N and stock filter. Having said that I did set my best ever ET a few weeks back though and I do think the AO kit contributed to that.

I bought mine used of a Forum member recently. I was very happy to get it as I had my eye on the system for a long while but could not justify the $1k+ AUS it would have cost me to buy new. I'd try to lay my hands on one used given my budget as new ones list for about $450 US :eek:.

Superlund, now that you mention it I do recall seeing that design intake on some racecars waaay back when C4's were big in big time racing. I think you would have done well to lay your hands on one of those.


[Modified by Red 90 L98 Coupe, 10:34 AM 12/18/2002]