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Mine fit great on my 89 and from what I can remember the plugs were easy with factory. I have Hedmans now on this 87 and plugs are a little bit of a pain but I do like the ball type connection better than the flat flange the Hooker had which had a tendency to leak . Copper gasket recommended on that as well as the heads...
I don't know about the Hooker, but most of them don't let you put the factory rear support braces back on the AC or Alternator, you do need the one on the Compressor. Alternator is better held in place by its other bracketry than the Compressor is.
If it doesn't, you should fab one up. You'll goose it once and you can crack the AC support bracket, its cheap metal, and it'll take your tensioner with it. I've done it.
What year car? Early starter barely fits, easier to upgrade to the 88+ starter, which should fit fine.
You may need a mallet getting the 16720 pipe on and fitted, but shouldn't for the headers.
I don't know about the Hooker, but most of them don't let you put the factory rear support braces back on the AC or Alternator, you do need the one on the Compressor. Alternator is better held in place by its other bracketry than the Compressor is.
If it doesn't, you should fab one up. You'll goose it once and you can crack the AC support bracket, its cheap metal, and it'll take your tensioner with it. I've done it.
What year car? Early starter barely fits, easier to upgrade to the 88+ starter, which should fit fine.
You may need a mallet getting the 16720 pipe on and fitted, but shouldn't for the headers.
Car is an 85. Not too keen on fabbing up brackets... I welded once... 30 years ago... and do not own a welder.
If I remember correctly the hooker headers come with instructions, but on my 90 I did had to remove the passenger side motor mount bolt and turn it around, also the starter and the one frame brace, once you get your header on the passenger side up in place from underneath just get 2 bolts started just so it holds it in place, then reinstall the starter and brace. The driver's side was supper easy, I did have to fab up a brace that bolts to the back of the alternator.
Last edited by eutu1984; Apr 28, 2021 at 04:59 PM.
Reason: correct fat fingers
If I remember correctly the hooker headers come with instructions, but on my 90 I did had to remove the passenger side motor mount bolt and turn it around, also the starter and the one frame brace, once you get your header on the passenger side up in place from underneath just get 2 bolts started just so it holds it in place, then reinstall the starter and brace. The driver's side was supper easy, I did have to fab up a brace that bolts to the back of the alternator.
Is this something that can be accomplished with the stock bolt and the steel bushing off the old exhaust manifolds? I can't figure the location has to move all that much.
Is this something that can be accomplished with the stock bolt and the steel bushing off the old exhaust manifolds? I can't figure the location has to move all that much.
If I remember correctly the headers come with the bushings. Also different year c4 may have different locations mine is a 90.
I installed my ceramic coated Hooker Headers with factory emissions pipes in around 3 hours one day. In my garage at home by myself. Very easy and smooth job, gutted the oem catalytic converters and installed new turbo mufflers.
I installed my ceramic coated Hooker Headers with factory emissions pipes in around 3 hours one day. In my garage at home by myself. Very easy and smooth job, gutted the oem catalytic converters and installed new turbo mufflers.
Did you have the same AC and alternator problems some folks have mentioned?
Car is an 85. Not too keen on fabbing up brackets... I welded once... 30 years ago... and do not own a welder.
85s compressor bracket is not as bad as what was on the later L98s. My 86 didn't have the issue, thus I didn't worry when I put the engine into the 88.
88 had it just giving it a little gas leaving a Burger King drivethru.
Also my hookers came ceramic coated and I had them on a few years in all sorts of weather
and over this winter I had them recoated. https://youtu.be/cZoRbQOy1RI
I have various exhaust parts I would like to have coated Over the course of the next winter. Where are they located, and how much do they charge?
That makes perfect sense... I was looking at that and thinking that the bung was in the wrong place.
Why the hell they did that is beyond me.
On the work front on the car, progress is being made, half of the intake is off now along with the exhaust manifolds.
Put the o2 sensor in the bung holley put on their headers unless you have the car tuned. The alternator bracket bolts right up, should have a spacer supplied with your headers, if not I recommend going to local hardware store and buying a sleeve the same length as the stock header has, you need to do the same for the bolt holding the dipstick. Last I knew hooker supplies all of those pieces with the headers. I bought mine second hand, guy wrecked his car before he got them installed, and lost the pieces by the time he sold the headers to me years after the fact. I removed the ac from my car, I live in the north and the car will not be daily driven, so removing 75 pounds was more important than having ac, plus maintenance is much easier with ac removed.
Car is an 85. Not too keen on fabbing up brackets... I welded once... 30 years ago... and do not own a welder.
Use a starter from a 91-96 car, much better design, lighter, costs 15 bucks for rebuild kit, and is about 10 pounds lighter than the old style permanent magnet starters the early c4's used.
If you relocate the o2 bung to the collector you will need to convert to a heated o2 sensor, that's why the one that comes on the hooker headers is located
were it is so the stock non heated o2 can get up to proper temp.
Hooker Header install, any problems?
