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If you relocate the o2 bung to the collector you will need to convert to a heated o2 sensor, that's why the one that comes on the hooker headers is located
were it is so the stock non heated o2 can get up to proper temp.
You do not have to use a heated O2, I don't run one and my O2 bung is in the collector of my TPiS, which is a similar design to the Hooker.
Just know that at idle, you'll probably drop into open loop and it'll run rich. You can have tuning make up some of that slack or you can run the heated sensor. I have a second bung on the passenger side collector put in for WB tuning purposes so I could see what both sides are doing.
You do not have to use a heated O2, I don't run one and my O2 bung is in the collector of my TPiS, which is a similar design to the Hooker.
Just know that at idle, you'll probably drop into open loop and it'll run rich. You can have tuning make up some of that slack or you can run the heated sensor. I have a second bung on the passenger side collector put in for WB tuning purposes so I could see what both sides are doing.
Ok...
I need to follow this closely...
If I use the hole Hooker provides and the stock O2 sensor, the car WILL NOT go rich at idle.
If I put the bung in the collector, I have to go to a heated O2 or the car will go rich at idle but otherwise be fine.
Yeah you have it right. Mine would rarely see closed loop at cruise or idle before I added the heated sensor but I believe there were some other issues contributing to that.
Yeah you have it right. Mine would rarely see closed loop at cruise or idle before I added the heated sensor but I believe there were some other issues contributing to that.
Ok! Stock O2 and Hooker's bung hole (that sounds bad...).
Also, per your advice, if it comes down to it, I am carefully looking at EBL instead of having somebody like TPIS do a mail in tune.
Ok! Stock O2 and Hooker's bung hole (that sounds bad...).
Also, per your advice, if it comes down to it, I am carefully looking at EBL instead of having somebody like TPIS do a mail in tune.
I don't have hookers, mine was in the collector. But I believe there were some tuning issues as well making that worse. It should be okay there. Mine just never was.
PacerX ... These are all good guy's giving you their opinion, all I can do is give you mine.
I'm in the process of tuning my new heads and manifold combination right now, 1988 ZZ4/L98, 32B code, hooker headers with the stock narrow band oxygen sensor welded in the collector.
No problem going closed loop right after a cold start and getting normal oxygen sensor cross counts.
I've been running the narrow band in these headers for 20+ years with no issues?
I have a wide band welded in the passenger side collector feeding a gauge.
Here is a startup and test run I just did this month, ignore the 1/21/2004 date, my ancient tuning laptop is frozen on that date because of a dead battery on the motherboard.
Don't know why others have issues with the stock sensor?
If I use the hole Hooker provides and the stock O2 sensor, the car WILL NOT go rich at idle.
If I put the bung in the collector, I have to go to a heated O2 or the car will go rich at idle but otherwise be fine.
Do I have that right?
The stock O2 should not cool off in the Hookers' position, and thus the car would stay in closed loop, yes. But you're only reading one cylinder.
If you put the bung in the collector, the car may go open loop at idle and tend to run richer. Thus why some folks caution to use the heated O2 sensor. The engine will be fine either way, yes. ECM reads based on pre-programmed memory tables, TPS position, and coolant temps. Thats why I said the tuner can make up some slack.
I rarely see mine drop into open loop, but it can happen on cold days at stop lights usually. If your foot is on the go pedal, I havent seen it drop out of Closed loop.
PacerX ... These are all good guy's giving you their opinion, all I can do is give you mine.
I'm in the process of tuning my new heads and manifold combination right now, 1988 ZZ4/L98, 32B code, hooker headers with the stock narrow band oxygen sensor welded in the collector.
No problem going closed loop right after a cold start and getting normal oxygen sensor cross counts.
I've been running the narrow band in these headers for 20+ years with no issues?
I have a wide band welded in the passenger side collector feeding a gauge.
Here is a startup and test run I just did this month, ignore the 1/21/2004 date, my ancient tuning laptop is frozen on that date because of a dead battery on the motherboard.
Don't know why others have issues with the stock sensor?
As I said, I believe there were other issues at play as well. Even on the stock exhaust the readout was lazy for a new sensor so I think there was something going on. It did work, just not great. I went most of the summer before it annoyed me enough to replace it so it really wasn't that bad. I did also find the fray in the harness around that point as well so it could've been that. I don't recall if I fixed that when I installed the heated unit or not.
I will agree, it should work fine. Mine did sometimes. Worst case is it doesn't. It's not a life altering modification that needs to be done at least.. fairly simple. I really don't get why it acted like it did.
the point of the o2 sensor being heated or not and dropping out of closed loop is moot. if you expect to see any power gains from adding headers the car should be tuned anyway. and anyone that tells you otherwise is talking out of their ***. so if you use the hookers, when you get collector extensions to hook up to your exhaust system weld an o2 bung in the drivers side. within an inch or two of the header flange. it really isnt that big of a deal. its all part of modifying a car. no, i repeat, no aftermarket part that is designed to add power is going to be 100% plug and play. its just the way it is. so either leave it stock, or be prepared to move the o2 sensor location and have it tuned. besides, with a 100% stock l98 c4 you can typically get 10-20 hp from just a tune if the tuner knows what they are doing. and it wouldnt make the car unable to pass smog check. headers and a tune along with free flowing dual exhaust should be good for 15-30 hp on an otherwise stock c4 corvette l98. if you just bolt on and make no ecu changes expect to see less than optimal results. each car is different.
