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Has anyone else had problems with Auto Zone batteries?
Put a brand new one in the car and dash battery gauge says 11.7 volts before staring car.
Is this normal?
Driving the car the volt gauge reads 14.2- 14.5 volts.
Drive the car 13 miles.
Check battery 8 hours later and dash gauge reads 11.7 volts.
I've had 3 of the Duralast Gold batteries over the years from them with no issues. Killed one in my Miata accidentally by leaving the trunk ajar for a couple weeks, but they replaced it under warranty no questions asked. Current one is going on 5 years old and still good, car gets driven maybe once a week in the summer, and sits disconnected all winter, still starts every time.
11.7 seems low though. I'd expect more like 12.5 or higher especially if it's new.
Last edited by Yinzcity; Apr 29, 2021 at 10:19 PM.
Ive had several Autozone batteries and only had a problem with one of them, developed a bad cell and it was replaced under warrantee. Verify the voltage at the battery terminals with a volt meter. You could have a bad cable connection causing the low voltage reading.
^^^ if in fact you have a battery problem is something else causing it to act up?
Gave up on expensive batteries.....bought 2 walmart batteries 3 yrs ago and not a single issue. Both under 80, go figure.
11.7 is fine. The dash readout isn't exactly accurate. Put a volt meter on the battery and confirm the voltage difference between the two. On mine 11.8 on the dash is roughly 12.4 at the battery.
The battery is 12v and won’t read in the 14V range when not charging. When the charging system is active when the car is running it reads in that 14V range. You are seeing normal stuff.
A fully-charged wet cell lead acid battery will measure 12.6 volts DC directly across its terminals. Voltage will read higher briefly after a charging episode, but will return to 12.6V as this excess surface charge dissipates. A battery that has been sitting unused on a store shelf for an extended period of time will self-discharge very gradually. It is not uncommon for a newly-purchased battery to need a charge in order to restore it to a fully-charged state. A battery that is connected to the vehicle's electrical system will lose charge faster than one that sits unconnected, as modern vehicles draw a small amount of current out of the battery to preserve memory settings in computers, etc.
With the engine running, the alternator should charge the battery by applying somewhere in the general range of 13.5 to 14.5 VDC, depending upon ambient temperature. Running the engine for only a brief interval will not fully recharge a discharged battery. A slow charge from an external charger is best.
What is commonly called a "12 volt" wet cell lead acid battery consists of six cells. Each will measure 1.2 VDC <edited for correction> 2.1 VDC when fully charged. 1.2 V <edited for correction> 2.1 V x 6 = 12.6 V. Therefore, there will be 12.6 VDC present across the battery terminals with a full charge. Measuring the voltage anywhere else in the electrical system will introduce external resistance in the measurement, with the resultant voltage drop. So measure it directly at the battery posts. Remember that corrosion at the battery connections can also add resistance into the picture.
What is commonly called a "12 volt" wet cell lead acid battery consists of six cells. Each will measure 1.2 VDC when fully charged. 1.2 V x 6 = 12.6 V. Therefore, there will be 12.6 VDC present across the battery terminals with a full charge. Measuring the voltage anywhere else in the electrical system will introduce external resistance in the measurement, with the resultant voltage drop. So measure it directly at the battery posts. Remember that corrosion at the battery connections can also add resistance into the picture.
Live well,
SJW
I think you had a bit of typing dyslexia there. Nominal voltage for a lead-acid battery cell is 2.1 volts. 2.1 x 6 = 12.6. Your comments about voltage measurement and terminal corrosion are right on.
I think you had a bit of typing dyslexia there. Nominal voltage for a lead-acid battery cell is 2.1 volts. 2.1 x 6 = 12.6. Your comments about voltage measurement and terminal corrosion are right on.
You are so right. My fingers had a mind of their own. It should indeed have been "2.1 volts per cell". That's what I get for trying to do anything in a severely under-caffeinated state. I'll edit my post accordingly. Thanks for keeping me between the ditches.
Check the battery itself with a multi-meter. I got one autozone batt with a cheap truck a few years ago and it was fine till I put it in another truck and forgot to disconnect it when it sat for a few months, dead and gone. The replacement cheap autozone batt that I bought myself is fine even after siting on my bench all winter with a few short charges BUT compared to the cheap walmart batt that I also bought just before this autozone one, it drops a bit lower when I charged both the other day. Basically if your vehicles doesn't draw them down sitting and you maintain them they are fine.
Consider a maintenance charger to keep the battery fully charged if the car will sit for more than a few days. The parasitic current draw from system electronics will slowly bleed charge from the battery. Parasitic current should be less than 50 mA, but that takes its toll over a period of time. It's the nature of modern cars with multiple computers, security systems, etc.