What's involved in making the switch, will the compressor have to be changed? I've seen the kits in the Ecklers catalog, one has the compressor the other doesn't. I'm leaning towards getting the remanufactured copressor, is that the right move?

 

i would suggest that if you do a 134a that you make sure that you have absoutely no MOISTURE, because if you have any it will produce acid which will do many things most of all eat your rubber seals, your lines, and destroy the compressor.
The corvette has a thermo switch so if the head pressure gets to hot it will shut off and also the radiator fan will kick on much sooner so as to pull in air over the condensor. I would suggest that if you do the switch you go to a different type of refrigrant, there is one out there that gives really good performance and is less "toxic" the name is freeze 12 if you do a search on r12 alternatives you'll pull up many and all there specs.

I write because i have had the unfortunate experience of a terrible 134a conversion i had it done at a dealership MURDOCK chevrolet in bountiful utah, and they didn't ry the system so it ate the lines, and seals and eventually blew out the main compressor shaft seal again


The conversion to freeze 12 uses the same type of fittings as 134a

if you have questions email at joe187h@cu.quik.com

i'm at work so i don't have lots of information in front of me

peace good luck

joe a.k.a WiGgY

 

One Air Conditioning professional I know will NOT convert a system unless an "event" is involved. Failed compressor, bad condensor, busted hose, etc. If your system is working good, I would leave it alone. If you have a significant leak, as I did, you should find out what is causing the leak. Then, decide cause if they have to evacuate the system, repair, good time to convert. Remember too, where you live (Canada vs Florida) MAY influence this a little. Best way, repair leak, system flush, proper oil, recharge, make sure they use a good dye (helps later), good repair.

The EPA has an excellent WEB site with conversion info. Spent an hour reading. Naturally didn't mark the site. Sorry.

Good luck.

dlmeyers 90 coupe zf6 3 speed shocks

 

The acids are formed by moisture and mineral oil not the R134 your conversion was done improperly or you already had a problem before the switch over which is very possible GM has had a lot of problems with lines eating through from the inside out. As far as Freeze 12 or any other non OE approved/used creation I vote no the 134 works fine and has a very good track record as an OE and replacement refrigerant. In the past 5 years I have done at least 300 R12 to R134 conversions without problems. I do not believe that every vehicle needs to be converted and that the requirements vary from vehicle to vehicle and each situation. But most important as an ASE certified auto tech I will not use any other chemical refrigerant than those tested and used by the vehicles manufacturer.

 

I replaced the compressor in my 85 and stayed with R12. It cost more these days. R12 in these systems cool much better than a conversion, IMHO...


[Modified by gdarwin, 7:51 PM 12/14/2002]

 

The car has been sitting for about 6 years at Performance Technical Center, it was Geoff's personal car, motor blew up years ago, too much nitrous w/supercharger. The motor and trans are out of the car. Busy tuner = no time to work on personal car. This car is part of the deal for my C5, nice chunk of cash plus the C4 rebuilt for me in exchange for the C5.
Back to the AC, since the car has been apart for so long, i'm assuming the AC system is dry. I'll check it out when the car gets back from the roll bar install.

 

Good plan, check first.

As a note, last summer during a visit to a very capable A/C repair shop, I asked the manager about the 66 or so Buick Wildcat sitting in the middle bay. He just chuckled and said the original owner brought the 70,000 mile car in for its' first A/C repair. Needed a slight dose of R12. Now that is what I would call a tight system. I'm still amazed by these darn cars.

Hope all works out.

dlmeyers 90 coupe zf6 3 speed shocks

 

If the AC system did not fail then I see no reason to convert. Replace the drier, orfice tube, orings and lube everything well. Normal evac time is about 45 minutes but I would probably run it for a 90-120 minutes before refilling. If the compressor had or has a problem then I would say replace the parts with 134 compatable replacement parts and refill with 134. Because of the low airflow rate across the condensor I would use an auto adjust variable orfice tube instead of the standard one.

 

I live in Florida. Converted about 2 years ago. Some bone head leaned on the Evaporator tube. I replaced the Evaporator and dryer and have been very happy with the results.

 

I did this conversion on my Mustang, and it's pretty straightforward. Don't know if the parts needed for the change are the same, but I needed a new condenser, evaporator/dryer, and a liquid line. Total cost including the new liquid was about $450. I doubt it's that cheap on a Vette. The 134 blew colder than the R12, though. Make sure the system is completely rinsed/cleaned on the inside before charging up, because the two refrigerants are not compatible.

 

i have converted a few of my cars and its inexpensive, and easy.just a conversion kit ($35 canadian) and r134

 

I would be very cautious in doing this, the refrigent oils are incompatible and can cause and acid condition in the system. You have to remove all the oil out of the system to do the convertion properly.

 

The mixing of oils will not create acid acid is only formed by moisture. the danger of mixing oils is that they can coagulate together and not flow properly. The best thing to do is flush the sytstem and uses Castrol retro oil is will not mix with other oil it carries it and by doing that will not allow gel to form. It was specifically designed for this purpose.

 

I stand corrected, still I was told by a thermoking rep that the two oils are in fact incompatible.

 

http://www.epa.gov/ozone/title6/609/index.html

The link above has all of the straight poop. Some of what has been said above is right, some wrong. Plaese get the right information before you make a decision.

I work with 6, 400 ton, R-134a machines (average home 3 tons). I can assure you that works fine in a car "IF", you do the right things.

 

yes some oils should not be mixed and that is why its best to flush they system to help remove all the oils and butt much contaminants as possible


[Modified by jefft84, 11:49 PM 12/17/2002]