New member here!

I picked up a cheap '95 base project car. No crank at the moment. Security light blinks and "press brake" light on. Figured out VATS code and ordered a bypass module - hopefully it's just that. Did alittle more scoping around and I realized this was originally a 6-speed car. The original engine blew. Then PO picked it up and swapped in a used motor. From what I was told he only did the motor swap - nothing with the trans. VATS wires looks like it's been worked on but there is no resistor/bypass in place so I can't really isolate that as the cause for no crank. The pedals have been swapped out..

The bigger problem I'm worried about at the moment is the ECU. Are there programming differences between the ZF and auto cars? Last thing I want to do is start throwing money at this if it's simply ECU/TCU related. Sorry if this sounds odd but I've mainly worked on euro cars and those already require programming for fluid change, let alone a whole MT/AT swap.

 

swapped the motor and the ECU?? does the car have 3 petals?

 

As far as I know only the engine was swapped. Everything else supposedly is original which I doubt. Car only has 2 pedals now.

 

There are difference on the auto and manual transmission programming in the engine control and ccm. I have a 95 that I swapped from an auto to a six speed and I drove myself crazy trying to fix a deceleration problem by programming the original automatic file. I don't think there's anything in there that would cause a no start condition. I'm not sure the manual programmed PCM has any values for controlling the 4l60e, so they may have put an older 700r4 or they swapped the computer too if it was running and driving. Come to think of it, there is no wiring for the 4l60e in the manual cars so that had to be done if it was truly swapped to a 4l60e.

It could be a vats issue or park/neutral safety switch. Even if the vats starter solenoid is bypassed, the computer is still looking for the resistance in the key. So unless a resistor has been installed there may be a crank condition where it won't fire off because the computer does not see the key.

If it's not cranking over at all, it may be that they did not properly wire the neutral safety switch to the shifter or it needs adjustment.

 

There are tons of programming differences but no hardware differences at all. So just reprogram the PCM using a base 95 auto file (after reading the PCM and saving its current program as a backup).

USB Cable: http://aldlcable.com/products/aldlobd2u.asp
Flash Software: http://fbodytech.com/flashhack/#Downloads
Factory BIN files: http://fbodytech.com/tutorials/bin-files/

Hopefully the previous owner did the whole swap, including the rear diff. Otherwise the speedo will be way off.

Good luck.

 

thanks!! Going to order that once I get the VATS bypass in. From what I can see from the top of the transmission tunnel the speed sensor isn’t even hooked up so I won’t get a reading at all. Infact, the whole connector is missing. Kinda odd. Once I get a chance to put it on a lift and look a trans harness may be on the list.

Which one of this BIN files is for the base 95 AT? Seeing a ton of numbers. Is that the ECM code or is there a specific code on the trans?

The only thing coming off the shifter right now is the shifter cable. I don’t see any sort of wiring in the trans tunnel, what I believe is the speed sensor also does not have a connector on it. There’s a good chance this car will need the whole harness. Have not had a chance to throw it on a lift and get a look on the passenger side yet.

PO was not very helpful when it came to questions as to what was done and what wasn’t. Looks like he either did the whole swap himself or the guy before him did the trans swap then he did engine only. There’s a low chance that the auto was ever successfully driven in this car. It blew up sometime within the last 11 months from what I see on the Carfax.

 

The one you want is Y-Body 95......assuming that’s what transmission got put in. There were also two potential rear differentials for the automatic...again assuming it has a rear differential from an automatic. So since you have a veritable mystery machine on your hands, let’s just start with the most common one. That’ll be Y-Body 95 2.59. That’s program code 16205531.

Best of luck to you. The one saving grace is the PCM for the 94-95 Corvette is very robust and capable and easy to work with.

 

I'd think that now you claim to know near nothing regarding origin, you see if the SPID (Service Parts Identification Label) is in the car and that the VIN on it matches the windshield. Using the SPID and other information match components to the SPID and use that as reference. SPID for a '95 is in the compartment behind the passenger seat I believe. Take a snapshot of it and if the VIN matches the windshield post the snapshot here and when you have questions information will be seen.

This would be sample info very likely for a '95 4L60e & 2.59

1G1YY22P3S5104304 1YY07
AG1 AG2 AK5 AR9 BGR CF7 C68 DL5 DL8 FE1 FE9 GM1 IP3
J55 KG9 LT1 MXO M30 NA5 NK4 QB6 R7A R8T UXO U1F U52
U75 VM3 V73 XAA YAA O5U 1AY 1SB 14I 143
BC/CC WA- U117B 143

GM1 - 2.59
LT1 - engine
MXO/M30 - 4L60e

If in the SPID you find an ML9/MN6 the car was an original ZF

 

found the SPID. It was indeed an original ZF car. FX3 also but is has since been converted to standard coils.

RPO showing 3.45 rear - assuming it hasn’t been swapped out. PO told me very little about it other than he purchased a new lower mileage motor, resealed it, and bolted it back in. He has no clue if the ECU was touched.

 

Dude. What a basket case. Who converts from a ZF to a 4l60?!?!

 

You should physically check the rear diff to see if it was swapped to the Dana 36.

In any event even if the rear diff is wrong this only affects the speedo (and can be fixed later). The code controlling the transmission is what’s important. There are only two variables there—94 or 95. The 4L60E was different between the two. The 95 is going to be a lot more common, so that’s why I suggested it first.
An idiot if they didn’t steal the Dana 44 while they were at it.

 

So now you need to validate/confirm each individual component in the car as it sits! The ECU/PCM needs to be confirmed by looking for labels, the engine needs confirmed to be a matching ECU/PCM, a VIN 'derivative' from the block would be ideal. The transmission needs confirmed from not only a 'physical ID' (easy enough) but from a pan rail model ID would indicate changes needed to make drivable. There's much that needs confirmed before doing anything further. FX3 is mentioned but then 'coils'. There ain't no coils on a C4.

@Nomake Wan can maybe better direct you from this point but it would be very important to confirm the components 'present now', each and every one. Are the engine & trans maybe a match from a single car? I'd think very important to know.

Until it's confirmed just what's present is maybe: 'how attached are you to the car'? How many $$$ are invested? In it's current configuration - how saleable is it? Not knowing condition of each component maybe it's an appropriate time to 'ESCAPE'! I doubt it's an inexpensive project. To make run? Might NOT be 'inexpensive' either.

Do you have a shop with access to a lift?

 

i do have access to a lift but it will be a PITA to get it over. I can’t leave it on the lift either and with my busted ankle right now I’m really not trying to push this surprisingly heavy car around. It’ll only be a last resort.

I was able to get under the car. This is starting to look like a headache.

engine code: V0208WTA(vin is not legible on the front of the engine, can’t get to the back)
trans code: 6YDM
rear end: Visually DANA 44
PCM part # 16181333

from what I gather with info off this forum: it is a 1986 700R4 transmission. Considering there’s 2 plugs down in the tunnel with nowhere to plug into, I assume this transmission won’t work.

the rear end looks untouched, and is missing the DANA 36 top bolt. The truss layout also matches that of a DANA 44. So I think it’s safe to assume it’s still original...unless they somehow gutted and ghetto rigged it.

PCM part # is original and according to the PO he “thinks it’s original, untouched”. I get a feeling he picked it up like this and sold the project when he realized the mismatched trans.


Right now I’m trying to figure out my options. I brought this car fully intending it to be a project - but not as half as*ed as this turns out to be. Could I sell it and buy another running driving C4? Sure it means nothing to me. But I have one right now and just want to see if it’s salvageable at this point. It’ll be nice to have it working this summer but it truly is no rush.

assuming the PCM is still tuned for the ZF, and the rear end is still correct, all I theoretically need to do is put in a ZF, clutch pedal, and shifter... it should be turn key. But ZFs look pretty expensive right now. And last thing I want to do is put a few G into a ZF then find out there’s something else missing.

what are my options for an auto? 4L60E and a tune? Possibly a new rear end later on? I seen somewhere that the manual cars don’t have the auto trans harness.

 

One that’s stripped for cash to buy crystal meth

i get a slight feeling this car was a doner car at some point within the last 6 months or so

 

Where is the car located in NY? Is there a clear title for it? Do you hold that title? Inventory all of the components and advertise it!!! Condition of body and interior?

 

You can get a ZF for $1k - $1.5k.

 

Central NY. Clean title. I have not transferred title to myself yet as I just got the car 3 days ago.

Interior probably 3/10, exterior probably 6/10. Just needs reclear on the outside and new seat covers would make a big difference.

 

where at? I can only find 2k+ at the scrap yards and eBay. I’ll take a ZF right now for 1-1.5k. Anywhere in the North East.

 

Wow. Sounds like a complete and total basket case. You are correct that this PCM, as it is, will not run a 700R4. These transmissions have electronically-controlled torque converter clutches only, something the 94-95 PCM isn’t set up for.

Time to dump it unless you want to restore it with a ZF6.

 

A sale might be considered the 'reasonable' thing to do. A ZF & shifter is no where near the end of the expense involved. Hydraulics, flywheel, clutch etc aren't inexpensive. Make the engine run with everything 'as is' and rethink it. Time is $$$ and needs considered. Purchase a similar 'total loss' that's either complete with the ZF and needed hardware or maybe an A4.

You've accomplished much in a 'few days'! Now it's time to 'rethink