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What is your snapshot of? Yours or something that's for sale?
It certainly appears to likely be a 3.07 BUT for sure it's a D36. There's several good reads of what's required to do a change with just an assembled assembly like you've pictured. If condition is unknown there's certainly recommendations of minimal and maybe suggestions for a reasonable 'rebuild/maintenance' of what you've pictured.
What you're 'in for'? Depends on $$$ you're prepared to spend and the year of the car. Your 'user ID' hints a '94 so speedo/odo calibration should be no problem to accomplish in the PCM. If it isn't a 4L60e then it will get more complicated.
@Nomake Wan might stop by to discuss the 'calibration'.
For the differential: Seals, bearings and normal stuff. Were it mine I'd for sure do pinion washers in the carrier and confirm the fit of the pin to the case. Clutch pack is optional but 'suggested' I'd think.
Difference D36 and D44 - very much! Very, very much!!
What is your snapshot of? Yours or something that's for sale?
It certainly appears to likely be a 3.07 BUT for sure it's a D36. There's several good reads of what's required to do a change with just an assembled assembly like you've pictured. If condition is unknown there's certainly recommendations of minimal and maybe suggestions for a reasonable 'rebuild/maintenance' of what you've pictured.
What you're 'in for'? Depends on $$$ you're prepared to spend and the year of the car. Your 'user ID' hints a '94 so speedo/odo calibration should be no problem to accomplish in the PCM. If it isn't a 4L60e then it will get more complicated.
@Nomake Wan might stop by to discuss the 'calibration'.
For the differential: Seals, bearings and normal stuff. Were it mine I'd for sure do pinion washers in the carrier and confirm the fit of the pin to the case. Clutch pack is optional but 'suggested' I'd think.
Difference D36 and D44 - very much! Very, very much!!
yeah that one is the one i got off ebay, i was seeing theres a dana 44 too but i suppose thats for if you want to go higher than the 3.07 right? Not very car savvy but I'm learning and loving it so far!
What is your snapshot of? Yours or something that's for sale?
It certainly appears to likely be a 3.07 BUT for sure it's a D36. There's several good reads of what's required to do a change with just an assembled assembly like you've pictured. If condition is unknown there's certainly recommendations of minimal and maybe suggestions for a reasonable 'rebuild/maintenance' of what you've pictured.
What you're 'in for'? Depends on $$$ you're prepared to spend and the year of the car. Your 'user ID' hints a '94 so speedo/odo calibration should be no problem to accomplish in the PCM. If it isn't a 4L60e then it will get more complicated.
@Nomake Wan might stop by to discuss the 'calibration'.
For the differential: Seals, bearings and normal stuff. Were it mine I'd for sure do pinion washers in the carrier and confirm the fit of the pin to the case. Clutch pack is optional but 'suggested' I'd think.
Difference D36 and D44 - very much! Very, very much!!
as for year my first vette was 94 but sadly it got totaled, i have the 92 I want to get the 3.07 installed into. What's on the 92 is pretty much stock all around! This one is an automatic transmission my previous vette was a 6 speed Zf6.
Well the Dana 36 with the 3.07 was a $50.00 upgrade option for the Dana 36 with the 2.59. It's a great upgrade and you will certainly notice the difference.
Since it's yours and the '92 is a driver NOW you've much time to plan. Speedometer calibration using a correct VSS (long been obsolete/very difficult to put hands on) it's maybe more desirable to use a DRA (DigitalRatioAdater). How many miles on the '92? If there's never been any 4L60 repairs I'd think that while doing the 3.07 swap you consider doing at least a extension bushing and seal while there. Drive-shaft u-joints for sure. Were it mine I'd buy a new slip-yoke (Spicer 2-3-9411X) so that when you do the swap IF the slip-yoke barrel is damaged it won't hold you up. It would be an easy sell if not needed or maybe to shelve for when needed.
You can check the fit of the differential pinion gear pin to case yourself and if you're happy with that buy D36 parts. Typical rebuild/overhaul kit should contain all bearings 3 seals, shims etc. Decide if you want to do a clutch-pac while rebuilding OR MAYBE just do 3 seals, pinion washers, pinion nut and drive on.
The swap is relatively easy to do, the dana 36 2.59 gear to dana 36 3.07 gear is a direct bolt in, Take you time pull out the 2.59 swap over the parts and put it back in. The only other thing you will need is a speedometer gear or calibrator as mentioned above.
The Dana 44 is a stronger rear end that was used in the manual cars. is is also a bolt in with some minor changes required.
Be advised that a Dana 44 requires much more than just swapping in the differential housing. It's not a simple bolt in. Bolt in yes, simple if you have all the parts, ie: batwing, driveshaft, c-beam of modified D36 c-beam.
Since you mention a recent eBay purchase it would be considered 'WISE' to check the differential pin fit to case NOW. If it's a poor fit and considered bad maybe it would justify a return to seller or maybe some compensation at least.
Since you mention a recent eBay purchase it would be considered 'WISE' to check the differential pin fit to case NOW. If it's a poor fit and considered bad maybe it would justify a return to seller or maybe some compensation at least.
someone asked me about miles i have about 119k on the odometer, the mechanic i took it to said he would check and do whatever is needed if its good, as for speedometer gear change? Whats that? Is it like an ecm type of tune thing or is it an actual part? Going to be swapping the thermostat from 160 to 195 as well but haven't received the part yet. I get a code 15 when doing diagnostic mode pin jump so i also bought some CTS's to go in and I'm probably recieving those on Tuesday. Have the z51 shocks and my wheels are 17 in, I'm sure those fit in the base model but unsure can anyone confirm if they do? Sorry for the long list but i got a bunch of parts in yesterday!
Since it's yours and the '92 is a driver NOW you've much time to plan. Speedometer calibration using a correct VSS (long been obsolete/very difficult to put hands on) it's maybe more desirable to use a DRA (DigitalRatioAdater). How many miles on the '92? If there's never been any 4L60 repairs I'd think that while doing the 3.07 swap you consider doing at least a extension bushing and seal while there. Drive-shaft u-joints for sure. Were it mine I'd buy a new slip-yoke (Spicer 2-3-9411X) so that when you do the swap IF the slip-yoke barrel is damaged it won't hold you up. It would be an easy sell if not needed or maybe to shelve for when needed.
You can check the fit of the differential pinion gear pin to case yourself and if you're happy with that buy D36 parts. Typical rebuild/overhaul kit should contain all bearings 3 seals, shims etc. Decide if you want to do a clutch-pac while rebuilding OR MAYBE just do 3 seals, pinion washers, pinion nut and drive on.
Your location I'd think maybe a + for 'local' advice.
also thank you very much for the advice on this I'm going to look into this speedo gear i have to change, perhaps my mechanic knows it needs one but if he doesnt does it just make the car read mph differently on the digital dash?
Assuming the tires are stock you would likely need a 42 tooth driven gear (GM# 25513049 - I believe I have and likely Greg @Blowerworks) also. The catch is you need a GM # 10456092 VSS that's very hard to come by or an aftermarket equivalent of that GM #. Another option would be an earlier VSS with a 'center connect' that if you used would require a change of the electrical connector at the VSS. A DRA is most often suggested these days.
Mention your rear tire size and it's easy to confirm.
Before the mechanic takes it apart you want to confirm the fit of the differential pin to the case. Ask the mechanic if he understands what's required for the rebuild or reseal. Have him read post #7 and ask if he understands. In this image you want to confirm the 'fit' of # 28 to #27 and the washers I suggested are #26. The washers are an easy find from FoMoCo or MoPar/Jeep and actually direct from Spicer likely. Many might just do the washers 3 seals, new pinion nut and 'drive on'! This is a Spicer image and pay no attention to the housing #1 not appearing like yours. The image is very generic.
Assuming the tires are stock you would likely need a 42 tooth driven gear (GM# 25513049 - I believe I have and likely Greg @Blowerworks) also. The catch is you need a GM # 10456092 VSS that's very hard to come by or an aftermarket equivalent of that GM #. Another option would be an earlier VSS with a 'center connect' that if you used would require a change of the electrical connector at the VSS. A DRA is most often suggested these days.
Mention your rear tire size and it's easy to confirm.
Before the mechanic takes it apart you want to confirm the fit of the differential pin to the case. Ask the mechanic if he understands what's required for the rebuild or reseal. Have him read post #7 and ask if he understands. In this image you want to confirm the 'fit' of # 28 to #27 and the washers I suggested are #26. The washers are an easy find from FoMoCo or MoPar/Jeep and actually direct from Spicer likely. Many might just do the washers 3 seals, new pinion nut and 'drive on'! This is a Spicer image and pay no attention to the housing #1 not appearing like yours. The image is very generic.
Assuming the tires are stock you would likely need a 42 tooth driven gear (GM# 25513049 - I believe I have and likely Greg @Blowerworks) also. The catch is you need a GM # 10456092 VSS that's very hard to come by or an aftermarket equivalent of that GM #. Another option would be an earlier VSS with a 'center connect' that if you used would require a change of the electrical connector at the VSS. A DRA is most often suggested these days.
Mention your rear tire size and it's easy to confirm.
Before the mechanic takes it apart you want to confirm the fit of the differential pin to the case. Ask the mechanic if he understands what's required for the rebuild or reseal. Have him read post #7 and ask if he understands. In this image you want to confirm the 'fit' of # 28 to #27 and the washers I suggested are #26. The washers are an easy find from FoMoCo or MoPar/Jeep and actually direct from Spicer likely. Many might just do the washers 3 seals, new pinion nut and 'drive on'! This is a Spicer image and pay no attention to the housing #1 not appearing like yours. The image is very generic.
so my mechanic said that the bolts for the new diff i want to put on are too big and that they would need to make the holes bigger. He said its up to me would it be better to weld it on?
edit: or can i use bolts that fit on the rear diff and call it a day?
so my mechanic said that the bolts for the new diff i want to put on are too big and that they would need to make the holes bigger. He said its up to me would it be better to weld it on?
Are you talking about only the 4 bolts that bolt the cover to the differential and camber rod brackets attach with? If it's a very early 3.07 then it would be very likely to need those 4 holes 'reamed' for your '92 brackets and hardware. There's 1 hole center bottom of your 3.07 and 2 left and 2 right. The 2 right and 2 left likely need reamed.
Your '92 should have 12mm bolts there and memory tells me that early cars are 10mm. Measure the bore of those 4 holes.
Are you talking about only the 4 bolts that bolt the cover to the differential and camber rod brackets attach with? If it's a very early 3.07 then it would be very likely to need those 4 holes 'reamed' for your '92 brackets and hardware. There's 1 hole center bottom of your 3.07 and 2 left and 2 right. The 2 right and 2 left likely need reamed.
Your '92 should have 12mm bolts there and memory tells me that early cars are 10mm. Measure the bore of those 4 holes.
BTW - 275 tires need the 42 tooth driven.
yes those bolts he said theyre way too big so they wont go into the differential i bought. He says they can ream and make the holes wider but it could make the diff crack from being less sturdy. Would just using the same size bolts for the differential fix the issue?
Are you talking about only the 4 bolts that bolt the cover to the differential and camber rod brackets attach with? If it's a very early 3.07 then it would be very likely to need those 4 holes 'reamed' for your '92 brackets and hardware. There's 1 hole center bottom of your 3.07 and 2 left and 2 right. The 2 right and 2 left likely need reamed.
Your '92 should have 12mm bolts there and memory tells me that early cars are 10mm. Measure the bore of those 4 holes.
BTW - 275 tires need the 42 tooth driven.
so i went to oreillys and ordered these 10 mm bolts. Is it as simple as bolting them on?
so my mechanic said that the bolts for the new diff i want to put on are too big and that they would need to make the holes bigger. He said its up to me would it be better to weld it on?
edit: or can i use bolts that fit on the rear diff and call it a day?
What bolts? If he is talking about the bolts that hold the lower arms in place he can either drill out the arms for the larger bolts or sleeve the carrier for the smaller bolts. The earlier Dana 36's had smaller bolts for the lower arms, this is a very minor issue.
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