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In the process of replacing my timing set and a bunch of other stuff, I removed the oil pan to replace the gasket. I removed the windage tray to have better access to clean the pan rails, and somehow managed to snap the drivers side stud towards the front of the engine. I thought I found the correct torque spec in my FSM, but apparently not. Can someone tell me where I can find good replacement studs? I'd like to replace all of them while Im at it. Is it as simple as using a deep socket to remove the old ones? And, does anyone know the proper torque spec?
The windage tray nuts should only be torqued to around 35-45 ft pounds. Not to be confused with the studs torque on the main cap, that's probably what you did, read it wrong and destroyed the end of the stud. Honest mistake, **** happens. 93-97 f body have a windage tray and a stud from one of them is probably identical. Not sure if the 96-2002 l31 vortec truck engine used a windage tray or not. Most junk yards have a pile of blocks that are set to be crushed, half the time the yard will just give you bolts like that if you take the time to remove it yourself. Could be worth a shot. Be advised that if you change them all to arp you must have the block align honed. So definitely find an oem main bolt/stud.
There should only be three (3) studs in an l98 tpi engine, the rest are main bolts. Unless you have reason to believe they've been over torqued, had a catastrophic rod failure there is no reason to replace the gm main bolts for up to 450-500 naturally aspirated horsepower. The oem bolts are actually very good quality. Many times guys will get arp for mild combos simply because the gm parts are more expensive, rest assured for a tpi engine, even one that's procharger or nitrous, the stock main bolts, and 3 studs for the windage tray are more than up to the task. Until you exceed 500 hp. It's your money, but personally I'd hate to see you waste it on things that will not necessarily add power or reliability bro.
There should only be three (3) studs in an l98 tpi engine, the rest are main bolts. Unless you have reason to believe they've been over torqued, had a catastrophic rod failure there is no reason to replace the gm main bolts for up to 450-500 naturally aspirated horsepower. The oem bolts are actually very good quality. Many times guys will get arp for mild combos simply because the gm parts are more expensive, rest assured for a tpi engine, even one that's procharger or nitrous, the stock main bolts, and 3 studs for the windage tray are more than up to the task. Until you exceed 500 hp. It's your money, but personally I'd hate to see you waste it on things that will not necessarily add power or reliability bro.
I was only planning on replacing the 3 studs, as one broke and the other two may be over torqued. What is the torque spec for the bolt on the rear of the windage tray? Want to ensure I didnt over torque that one as well
It's just a 3/8-16 stud and nut if memory serves me right? If so common sense torque of 35-40 ft pounds will be fine for most 3/8-16 stuff. You must have torqued it to 75 pounds or more to snap it off. Honestly most small stuff like that I torque by hand and feel. The only exception is the cam gear bolts, I use a torque wrench on this. And rod bolts etc. Your mileage may vary, just my $.02
I buy the bolt/studs on ebay for my project engines that don't have them or to add to more and use larger 5 bolt trays GM 14087508, here's the link for merchant that I bough some from last few times https://www.ebay.com/itm/402463534699
I am trying to find somewhere that can get them to me quick, as I'd really like to finish this project before the weekend. Looking around, I am seeing studs with and without a washer flange nut. These are without. Does it matter?
The new GM I'd think likely on a dealers shelf for pick up!! Call the info to a dealer and let them check other local dealers. You get from a dealer singularly!!
There's 5 for $35 on eBay if you use the GM# 12561389