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Hello everyone, I blew a water hose while out driving. Water temp gauge pegged (now dosen't work), oil temp way high and car stalled.
Managed to replace hose, filled with coolant and drove home after cooling down (only a few miles).
Changed thermostat at home and reran.
only got air out of the bleeder valve, never any fluid.
Car heated and stalled, would not restart.
Any Help? Thanks
* how do I know if the water pump is working..
All Stock
Added note.. I can not get my car off cooling mode, temp control on climate control will not move up or down.
Last edited by jim lallone; Jun 11, 2021 at 03:27 PM.
The way I've always tested to see if the water pump is working. With the radiator cap off (I have a neck extension I use), start the car up and wait for the thermostat to open. When it does the coolant level will drop at the neck (assuming it's not 100% full) and you can see coolant moving in the radiator. The alternate method is remove the thermostat and it should show flowing immediately.
Thanks for replying on water pump.
removed cap, ran and it never dropped and only air out of bleeder valve. Stalled on me and I could start and run with engine revved but as soon as I let of gas its stalls.
Sorry to say, but it sounds like a blown head gasket. Check your oil to see if it looks like a mikshake. Headgasket isn't hard job tho, hardest part is getting the A.I.R. pipes out of the manifolds. You will most likely end up having to cut the pipe off where it meets the fitting and back it out with an impact driver. An oil drain plug off a 2000 dodge ram diesel will fit the now open hole in the manifold. I had to take both heads off together as I could not get the steam lines off with the heads on the engine. Other than that, its a very straighforward job.
Added note.. I can not get my car off cooling mode, temp control on climate control will not move up or down.
If otherwise the HVAC controls work fine, the contacts on the head unit could just be dirty. Disassemble and clean them. If the HVAC controls do not work fine, or the car won't turn the A/C off, or it displays weird stuff on the HVAC control head, then the programmer is shot and should be sent off to BATEE to see if they can revive it.
Was thermostat you changed the same type as the one taken out?
LT1s need to get air out of system. There are procedures on how to do it on this forum...
I always fill the water pump up before putting stat in it.
Then I fill as much as possible once all is put back together. Then , start Vette, keep rpms up around 1500sh, keep radiator fill cap off, then fill as necessary while it burps up air.
Then there is the air valve at the thermostat housing you can open and bleed all that air out, and its allot.
Good luck.
^That is a waste of time and effort. Fill the thing to the neck. Open the bleeders until you get coolant, close 'em. Top the coolant in the surge tank. Done.
Originally Posted by hcbph
The way I've always tested to see if the water pump is working. With the radiator cap off (I have a neck extension I use), start the car up and wait for the thermostat to open. When it does the coolant level will drop at the neck (assuming it's not 100% full) and you can see coolant moving in the radiator. The alternate method is remove the thermostat and it should show flowing immediately.
That won't work in an LT1 and removing the stat isn't necessary. Open the surge tank cap, look inside while it's running; you'll see water gushing into the tank from one of the return hoses....that is proof that your pump is working.
FYI, if the pump really wasn't working, the radiator would be cold and you'd have no heat from the heater, when the engine was warm or hot. Easy.
^That is a waste of time and effort. Fill the thing to the neck. Open the bleeders until you get coolant, close 'em. Top the coolant in the surge tank. Done.
That won't work in an LT1 and removing the stat isn't necessary. Open the surge tank cap, look inside while it's running; you'll see water gushing into the tank from one of the return hoses....that is proof that your pump is working.
FYI, if the pump really wasn't working, the radiator would be cold and you'd have no heat from the heater, when the engine was warm or hot. Easy.
Whatever tom... It has worked for me, and I have been driving this thing since 95.. If he blew all the fluid out, and then decided to put a thermostat in, there is no reason not to add fluid with the thermostat out, as obviously he lost a lot of damn fluid.
Adding oil, one table spoon at a time would also work....but is a waste of time and effort. Using a box end wrench on every fastener, all the time, would work....but is a waste of time and effort. There are better/faster ways.
While you're right that if he had the stat out, he could fill (part of) it there, but your post made it seem like there was some "bleeding advantage" to that method....there is not. Also, pouring all of the coolant in ONE hole....and that hole not being directly above the Opti....is easier and faster than pouring coolant into two holes, for no good reason.
My point was he dumped most of his fluid if his hose burst. With the thermostat off, pouring water into water pump is easy and fills all of the block. Then put thermostat in, housing on, and fill from Fill tank by windshield.. Then start car.
Its not a teaspoon at a time.
If he blew a hose, there probably is water on the opti already. And since it was hot, and a 93, its probably already got water in the opti..