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Hello, this issue is a little tricky. After trying to start the car (and it does turn over and starter engages) all of the sudden, it won't turn over at all. When turning the ignition, nothing engages. A couple of times it seems I had to wait approximately 10 minutes (almost like a reset) and then it started. Temperature doesn't affect the problem. One time, I tried to start it and nothing happened. I came back two days later and it started immediately.
the car is manual trans. It also has the "Goodwrench" added alarm with fob.
At this point, I'm thinking:
1. starter has dead spot in material.
2. issue with the alarm that's causing it to reset
3. maybe problem with clutch switch that engages the ignition after depressing clutch pedal
Does the "SECURITY" light come on during those times when you turn the key and nothing happens?
If so, that's VATS. The timeout is 3 minutes from the last time the wrong key was inserted (or, in your case, the last time VATS failed to correctly detect the correct key and you tried to turn it anyway). The timer resets every time you turn the wrong key.
Having an aftermarket alarm in addition to that sounds like you have a wiring nightmare. Best of luck to you sorting it out.
EDIT: As pointed out by IHBD below, the SECURITY light does not indicate VATS issues on the 86-89. More diagnostics would be necessary to confirm. Sorry for the misdirection!
Last edited by Nomake Wan; Jun 16, 2021 at 10:27 AM.
yes , security light does come on. Noted. Thank you!
Since you have an 89, you can fix this one of two ways. You can buy and install the “VATS ByPass Module” by timers.shop, or you can install an aftermarket chip in the ECM that disables VATS.
Sure you could try to diagnose where the actual problem is (ignition cylinder contacts bad? Key contacts bad? Wiring to the ignition cylinder bad?) but...well. Might be easier and simpler to just disable it.
SECURITY light is not associated with VATS until 1990. There is NO connection between VATS and SECURITY light in a 1986-1989.
If it does it again, jumper ALDL A&B like your pulling codes, and look for Code 46. If 46 is present, VATS is not sending the fuel enable signal, so it would also be inhibiting cranking. If there is no 46, it is not the VATS causing the no-crank.
I have learned yet more about the earlier cars. Thank you for the correction! Really sucks that you can't immediately tell it's a VATS issue through the SECURITY light. Why even bother having the light...?
If there is no 46, it is not the VATS causing the no-crank.
I’ve seen a few cases where the VATS Module will output the Fuel Enable signal to the ECM, but not energize the Start Enable Relay. So no code 46, no crank and it is VATS, in the case the VATS Module. Rare, but happens. Otherwise, I agree with you completely.
great info thanks!!! For the quickest fix, I'm looking to just disconnect battery and reconnect to see if that gives me results. Then I'll move from there and do that VATS code 46 test. I know previously, the car would do this and I would think it's the battery so I would remove and trickle charge, reinstall and wallah. All the time it may have been an issue with VATS.
If not VATS, anyone have thoughts on a simple starter issue?
Thanks for all your replies, very helpful. I'm gonna ck that VAT bypass product as well
Last edited by Cory Vette; Jun 18, 2021 at 01:08 PM.
Same behavior on my 89 turned out to be an original old battery connection bolt. Didn't look that bad but it wasn't allowing full current so nothing but dash lights. Two fresh bolts and I was good.
Same behavior on my 89 turned out to be an original old battery connection bolt. Didn't look that bad but it wasn't allowing full current so nothing but dash lights. Two fresh bolts and I was good.
I'm liking the sound of that. My battery was pretty low so, I think I'll also clean contact points. I'll let ya all know after I reinstall battery. Thanks a bunch for all the input.
I put this issue on hold for a while...needless to say. Battery voltage is fine, reconnected and still no turn over. I"m getting back into it since I'm going to want to sell the car so, I"ll keep yall posted. thanks!
I have the same problem with my '96 base coupe with 54k miles in that the either the starter gets energized or it doesn't.
Not aware of the 3-minute rule I've used a portable emergency battery to put extra power into the mix. Even then it may or may not engage.
About 15 minutes later . . . . it starts with plenty of strength as if nothing was ever wrong.
hi all, it's been more than a minute. The quickest fix to this was my mechanic bypassed all the crap under the dash and put a push button which gives power directly to the starter. Of course, this also bypasses the clutch engage safety switch but, it's old school and that's fine by me. I still need the key turned to the on position so, yes, there is still antitheft (to a certain degree) involved. I was also told by "Grumpy's smog station" that there are two wires associated with the iginition that constantly get turned when the ignition is turned. Eventually, one of the wires breaks. The only way to fix this is replace the ignition assembly and locking mechanism.
Again, this is just what I was told by a gentleman who's dealt with cars for years. So, there ya go. Also, this car is for sale if anyone is interested.
I was having the exact same problem you are having.
turns out, the contacts for the key were flakey.
i looked up my key code resistance, and bought a couple resistors that duplicated the key resistance, an unplugged the key wires, and plugged my new resistance card into the car harness.
it’s been months, and hasn't missed a start.
measure uour key, then buy some resistors and solder them together and solder the bare wires and poke them into the plug and start it up.
i used an old hotel rewards card, and poked holes in the card with a large needle and when done with my card, i put it in a sleeve of heat shrink and heated it up.
Last edited by coupeguy2001; Feb 17, 2022 at 09:12 PM.
nice, yes I read about applying the resistors that way. Very good. I may go that route. Sounds very simple. What "harness" are you referring to that you plug the custom card into?