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We need to remove the starter on my neighbor's 1996 LT1 convertible and at a glance the clearance looks pretty tight under there with the exhaust so close. Anyone have any tips or suggestions before we begin this job? It sounds like the solenoid is bad. When the key is turned we hear one click each key turn until the solenoid engages and the starter activates. When working, the starter sounds strong. Convertibles have the "X" brace under the exhaust so does the brace and exhaust need to be dropped for clearance or can the starter be removed and wiggled out with everything intact?
We need to remove the starter on my neighbor's 1996 LT1 convertible and at a glance the clearance looks pretty tight under there with the exhaust so close. Anyone have any tips or suggestions before we begin this job? It sounds like the solenoid is bad. When the key is turned we hear one click each key turn until the solenoid engages and the starter activates. When working, the starter sounds strong. Convertibles have the "X" brace under the exhaust so does the brace and exhaust need to be dropped for clearance or can the starter be removed and wiggled out with everything intact?
Have you done complete diagnostics of the system before deciding to remove the starter? Your intention is to maybe do a solenoid plunger, contacts etc to the starter you have or ....?
I had to pull the starter on my 92 automatic Vert. It was tight getting it out because of the transmission lines. I didn’t have to drop exhaust or the x brace. I don’t know if they changed it for the 96 Vert or not. Kevin
He got the job done yesterday. Nothing had to be removed to get at the starter. The one 14MM starter bolt was a little hard to get at because the Cat heat shield was close but a 3/8" extension squeezed through OK. Both starter bolts required a breaker bar to snap them loose and the transmission lines had enough give to just push them aside enough to drop the starter out. Thanks for the reply's.
He got the job done yesterday. Nothing had to be removed to get at the starter. The one 14MM starter bolt was a little hard to get at because the Cat heat shield was close but a 3/8" extension squeezed through OK. Both starter bolts required a breaker bar to snap them loose and the transmission lines had enough give to just push them aside enough to drop the starter out. Thanks for the reply's.
Out and back in with a reman or what? Just out? If there's been a reman purchased I wouldn't part with the 'core'!
hijacking post.
Why not? I have mine that I took out of my 96 when I put a reman in.
While WVZR-1 decided to avoid answering your question with the actual answer, the actual answer is that in general the Nippondenso units don't fail as a unit. That is, their coil windings aren't what go bad. The plunger system doesn't go bad. What goes bad are the brushes, which is true of any brushed motor over long periods of time, and the plunger itself, which can also be replaced easily. Total cost of the parts to get an original Nippondenso back working again is around $25. So it's far better to refurbish the original unit than it is to install a cheap reman that may actually have QC issues down the line.
While WVZR-1 decided to avoid answering your question with the actual answer, That is, their coil windings aren't what go bad. The plunger system doesn't go bad. What goes bad are the brushes, which is true of any brushed motor over long periods of time, and the plunger itself, which can also be replaced easily. .
I avoided 'nothing' I left it to the '@Puterami' to figure it out. I left him with a 'think about it'! 'denso brushes will often do at least 2 refurbs! Maybe you can 'think about it also' for just awhile longer! You missed the most common point of failure in a 'denso.
I avoided 'nothing' I left it to the '@Puterami' to figure it out. I left him with a 'think about it'! 'denso brushes will often do at least 2 refurbs! Maybe you can 'think about it also' for just awhile longer! You missed the most common point of failure in a 'denso.
Or maybe you could realize that the whole point of a forum such as this is to not only help those asking the questions, but those lurkers both now and well into the future who may want to know the answers as well. Being coy helps no one. Hopefully you figure that out.
hijacking post.
Why not? I have mine that I took out of my 96 when I put a reman in.
If you believe your starter was likely an 'original' it should still have a label on it. Take a snapshot of that label and post it. If it's NOT an original it could still potentionally have a label so post a snapshot of whatever you find.
Eh, it must not be original. No label, but the body has a stamp. I'd say the starter has been replaced before.
"Delco Remy 10455709"
Stamped or casting? An original I would have expected a label with that # and also the 'denso #. If yours has a casting 10455709 on the drive-end housing it would be safe to assume that it should be considered reasonable to consider a DIY for future. I thought I had a snapshot of a label for L98/LT1 & LT5 'denso starter labels but it's likely on an older PC. I'll look but if you're interested in parts then shopping for 128000-8111 Nippendenso might offer up more appropriate parts information.
I buy starter motors for my Kawasaki FS/FH ZTR engines from these guys but they do have parts listings for that 'denso. I may have bought a couple plunger & contact packages from them but years ago. I should also have complete parts listings for the internals.
** It appears that dbelectrical.com no longer direct links to a BOM for this starter. There are others that still do I believe. I left the link because I'm quite sure they actually do have the parts most often used for DIY
Wow, that's a good price with free shipping for that starter.
The one that came out of mine is definitely a reman. Picture below of the only label. Yes, my bad, the number is cast, not stamped on the drive-end housing.
The issue with this starter is that it appears that the bendix started going out. Now and then I when I would go to start it, I'd get the awful gear clash a time or two until it would engage properly. After about ten times, I replaced it since it's cheaper/easier than a flywheel. :-)
Stamped or casting? An original I would have expected a label with that # and also the 'denso #. If yours has a casting 10455709 on the drive-end housing it would be safe to assume that it should be considered reasonable to consider a DIY for future. I thought I had a snapshot of a label for L98/LT1 & LT5 'denso starter labels but it's likely on an older PC. I'll look but if you're interested in parts then shopping for 128000-8111 Nippendenso might offer up more appropriate parts information.
I buy starter motors for my Kawasaki FS/FH ZTR engines from these guys but they do have parts listings for that 'denso. I may have bought a couple plunger & contact packages from them but years ago. I should also have complete parts listings for the internals.
** It appears that dbelectrical.com no longer direct links to a BOM for this starter. There are others that still do I believe. I left the link because I'm quite sure they actually do have the parts most often used for DIY
1996 LT1 Convertible Starter Replacement
