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Another Confused VATS Question

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Old Jun 26, 2021 | 12:10 AM
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Default Another Confused VATS Question

Hey, I just purchased a 1992 Corvette auto, and I'm having some odd starting problems. The car will not start consistently. That is, it will only start IF the security light is on/blinking, and consequently the interior lights also come on. And Yes, I have done the VATS bypass correctly. I'm assuming the VATS is still involved, but this is a bit different in that if the security light isn't on/blinking then it will not start. Any insight on how I can keep the VATS, or security light on/blinking, so I can engage it... I would greatly appreciate it!
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Old Jun 26, 2021 | 01:18 AM
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Start meaning? Are we talking about cranking or whether it will crank and keep running?
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Old Jun 26, 2021 | 03:42 AM
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Originally Posted by aklim
Start meaning? Are we talking about cranking or whether it will crank and keep running?
Start, meaning no cranking at all. It seems that it still thinks it's "armed". From what I read, no security light means that the anti-theft is active. My thoughts are that it needs to know when it's deactivated (flashing security light), so I can start it up.
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Old Jun 26, 2021 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by SwamiCJ7
Start, meaning no cranking at all. It seems that it still thinks it's "armed". From what I read, no security light means that the anti-theft is active. My thoughts are that it needs to know when it's deactivated (flashing security light), so I can start it up.
Idiot light on the starter exciter wire. So if you are not getting signal, go backwards. If you get signal, it is the starter
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Old Jun 26, 2021 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by aklim
Idiot light on the starter exciter wire. So if you are not getting signal, go backwards. If you get signal, it is the starter
I'm not following... it will start - crank and run - when I get the security light flashing. My problem is that I don't always get the security light to flashing / blinking. So, I don't think it's the starter. Are you saying that the security light is associated with the wire on the starter?
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Old Jun 26, 2021 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SwamiCJ7
I'm not following... it will start - crank and run - when I get the security light flashing. My problem is that I don't always get the security light to flashing / blinking. So, I don't think it's the starter. Are you saying that the security light is associated with the wire on the starter?
When it doesn't crank, does it get a signal?

I have a bad feeling that the VATS mods is being intermittent

Last edited by aklim; Jun 26, 2021 at 12:00 PM.
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Old Jun 26, 2021 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
When it doesn't crank, does it get a signal?

I have a bad feeling that the VATS mods is being intermittent
Yes, when it cranks then it gets the signal. I reverted the VATS bypass and have the same issue.
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Old Jun 27, 2021 | 09:21 AM
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Could it be the Transmission safety switch? Sometimes, on an auto, they have gotten loose and out of alignment. Have you tried to wiggle the trans lever when it doesn't? Assuming you have an auto.
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Old Jun 27, 2021 | 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ihatebarkingdogs
The SECURITY light blinks with a door open, key in OFF. Indicates that the Universal Theft Deterrent is not armed.
Lock doors with power door locks.The SECURITY light goes solid-ON with door still open, Indicates that UTD is now ready.
Close door. SECURITY light goes OFF after 1-2 seconds. Indicates that UTD is ARMED.
With the door open and key is off, the security light does not blink.

When I lock the doors using the power lock, the security light does not turn solid. There is no security light at all; that it's not blinking or in any other state.

When I close the door, the security light doesn't turn off because it wasn't on to being with.

Originally Posted by ihatebarkingdogs
The only time SECURITY indicates VATS status is with key in RUN. When key is turned to RUN, security light must be OFF. If SECURITY light is solid-ON, the CCM is inhibiting cranking, and not sending the Fuel Enable signal to the CCM.
The flashing SECURITY has nothing to do with VATS. But if SECURITY is solid-ON when the key is in RUN, that is indicating a VATS inhibit.
I'll pay attention when I can get it started. It's intermittent, and only notice that UDT is disabled when I unlock the door using the door key after using the power lock to lock the car.

Originally Posted by ihatebarkingdogs
There are several other diagnostics available in both the CCM and the ECM that will help narrow down what the issue is. But your "when SECURITY isn't flashing, it won't crank" indicates to me that the CCM isn't powering up correctly. There are 3 fuses for the CCM. CCM, LCD, and A/C are the fuses. Another pretty accurate indication is that if VATS is not sending Fuel Enable, there will be a Code 46 in the ECM. When it won't crank, jump A&B and turn on the key. Read the codes on the Service Engine soon light.
I checked all fuses and the one alarming item is the second fuse box under the dash for security that burned out. I replaced it, but the same symptoms occurred. Meaning, it didn't seem to have improved anything.

If you can point me to any diagnostic tools, tests, etc., I would appreciate it.

Lastly, i can get it to start intermittently. I was focused on the security light because it was the only thing that changes when it starts up. So, I don't suspected that the VATS is problematic.

Thanks for the great info 👍
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Old Jun 28, 2021 | 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by ihatebarkingdogs
Check the door pin switches on the rear of the doors. If they are stuck in (door closed (position), the SECURITY light won't flash, and the courtesy lights won't come on either.
The SECURITY light VATS indication with key in RUN is valid with the doors open or closed, so the pin switches won't affect this indication.
What if the door pin switch was removed? I noticed that the passenger side wasn't there but the previous owner had a small assortment of odds/ends and found the switch. I cleaned the connector but didn't see any noticeable improvements.


Originally Posted by ihatebarkingdogs
This is a very good link to CCM diagnostics. You can test the inputs and outputs. See the key resistance, and a whole bunch of other things. The CCM onboard diagnostics are a powerful, quick, fairly easy to use tool. Study-up. Well worth learning the basics, you'll use them repeatedly.


^^Please elaborate on this^^. What did you do, what were you trying to fix, what fuse(s) were burned?
Under the passenger side dashboard, after taking out the panel with the foot well light, there is a secondary fuse box. I inspected all of them, and there is a 15 Amp fuse marked "security" that looked burned out. I replaced it with a good fuse, but didn't see any change or improvements.

Also I was sitting in it today after it started and turned car off with ignition keys out and stared at the security light. After a few minutes, the security light stopped, and then couldn't start the car. Is there a delay system that I also need to investigate?

Last edited by SwamiCJ7; Jun 28, 2021 at 01:28 AM.
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