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I was just wondering if there is one. When I replaced my rack I centered the rack so it was an equal number of turns lock to lock from center. But in doing this my cancelation on the turn signal isn't even anymore. A left turn seems to cancel about where it should but short of a hard right I have to click it myself.
Now I don't know if that was the proper way to adjust the rack center but here I am. It was close, one tie rod is 3 turns further out than the other to have it centered so I don't think anything is wrong persay. (And the alignment was damn close too.) And the old rack behaved the same way as far as cancelation, maybe a little more even as I did move the steering wheel one spline to get it perfect where before that spline would split the difference in tilt one side to the other.
Normally I'd peak in the FSM but mine was on a low shelf in a friend's garage that flooded and is presently drying. So I don't really have that option at the moment. I peaked around a little and there doesn't seem to be a clear answer or I'm just dumb. (The latter is probably a more accurate representation)
Thanks in advance for any input on this dumb question.
3 turns different is somewhat an issue. Sounds like pinion is one tooth off. The intermediate shaft, steering shaft and steering wheel pretty much only go together one way. Center rack by going lock to lock and halfway back. With the horn button removed the stake mark on steering shaft should be at 12 o'clock or very close to it. Rotate steering wheel to 12 o'clock and lock in place check and reset reset toe in, if necessary.
3 turns different is somewhat an issue. Sounds like pinion is one tooth off. The intermediate shaft, steering shaft and steering wheel pretty much only go together one way. Center rack by going lock to lock and halfway back. With the horn button removed the stake mark on steering shaft should be at 12 o'clock or very close to it. Rotate steering wheel to 12 o'clock and lock in place check and reset reset toe in, if necessary.
I'd have to double check all that again, it's been a while.
From what I did, I zeroed the rack outside the car (lock to lock then half way.) it keyed into the steering shaft the same way the old one came out... I used the column lock to hold the wheel during this to not mess up the clock spring or anything.
Installed tie rod ends same number of turns each side. Then installed the rack. Once on the car lock to lock was a hair off... spoke on wheel currently rests at 7 on full left and 5 full right. Before I moved the tie rods it was like 6 and 4 so fairly close. I suppose the rack itself could be a tooth off or I just miscounted turns or something. I'll have to double check everything when I'm off.steering centers fine and everything seems normal so I will check to make sure.
Okay. I measured the protruding amount of threads on the inner tie rods and counted threads... its splitting half a thread difference side to side... or basically identical depending on where you measure it. So the rack I assume is centered and thus are the tierods.
You really don't need to measure threads once you get rack fully installed. With steering wheel centered you need to have toe in checked. Counting turns is to get it close until it can actually be checked and reset with shop or DIY equipment. Then if there is a difference in steering wheel turns side to side by more than a quarter turn you need to find out why. It's not unusual to have some variation left to right but the count is normally close. Looking at the tie rod end to boot also the length looks equal. The actual toe reading trumps the visual so don't over analyze.
You really don't need to measure threads once you get rack fully installed. With steering wheel centered you need to have toe in checked. Counting turns is to get it close until it can actually be checked and reset with shop or DIY equipment. Then if there is a difference in steering wheel turns side to side by more than a quarter turn you need to find out why. It's not unusual to have some variation left to right but the count is normally close. Looking at the tie rod end to boot also the length looks equal. The actual toe reading trumps the visual so don't over analyze.
I had it aligned a few weeks ago when I did the suspension and tires. I'll have to find the sheet but it was close when it went in and was dead on when it left.
The only other thing i can think of is the spring on turn signal switch for the cancelling cam is missing . it's not uncommon for them to break over time.
The only other thing i can think of is the spring on turn signal switch for the cancelling cam is missing . it's not uncommon for them to break over time.
I'll have to dig into the column then and report back.
Any update to this? My turnsignals don't cancel unless I turn a lot. I'm hoping it will be an easy fix.
If you're happy with the steering wheel being 'centered' a very common maintenance for larger fleets was to routinely replace the turn springs #1964784 & 1964785. They're I would think still available and on most dealer shelves. Proper maintenance for an early C4 might be to also do the cancelling cam. If there's an issue with the plastics of the arm that the cam actually 'triggers' you would need a directional switch. There's also a 'lane-change' spring that's maybe still available but I don't recall ever replacing it. An early C4 that has a full-spline upper shaft it's very easy for someone to have 'NOT DONE IT RIGHT'.
There should be many directional switches available on eBay that you could 'ZOOM' to view how it's assembled and assembly is pretty much 'an understood'! eBay 1997984 should get you many results to pick a very good image'
This eBay does a very good 'ZOOM' by just a 'HOVER'!