Speed bleeders basic question
Thread Starter
Race Director
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From: RI
Speed bleeders basic question
I was looking at some old threads about these devices and really just have one question. Besides the fact that they make bleeding the lines easier, what is the point? Once air is removed from the line it should never come back unless a mechanical malfunction occurs. So what is the thinking behind these bleeders vs just doing a job right the first time? Any other insite or reasoning would be helpful :confused:
kitt
kitt
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Re: Speed bleeders basic question
First off, at the very least brakes should be bled at least once a year for a normal car, and after every event if you track your car. For me this means bleeding the brakes once or twice a month (sometimes more). The speed bleeders allow me to do this easily and quickly by myself. Even if your car is just a street car, the time you save (and not needing an extra person) once a year is worth the price. Also, air and/or moisture can and will enter a properly functioning brake system through normal use or even if the car sits in the garage all year. Or if you have a panic stop, or several heavy stops (going down a hill/mountain) you could boil the fluid and introduce air into the system.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Le Mans Master
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Re: Speed bleeders basic question (kittmaster)
I just bought two pair at at Pep Boys. $9.95/pair, same price as Summit online.
Main thing is they make bleeding the brakes a one man job instead of two man. You have to loosen them a 1/2 turn or so to open them they let fluid and air out but not back in.
Main thing is they make bleeding the brakes a one man job instead of two man. You have to loosen them a 1/2 turn or so to open them they let fluid and air out but not back in.
Thread Starter
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From: RI
Re: Speed bleeders basic question (EvanLT1)
Never really thought of it that way. Always knew it was a closed loop system so to bring air in under boil or hard breaking never occured to me. Thanks for the heads up
Chris
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Re: Speed bleeders basic question (Lone Ranger)
:cheers: I have the speed bleeders on the Vette and they work well...but so does gravity bleeding and that's a one person job as well.
Just had to do an "emergency" gravity bleed on my Z 28 over the weekend (bad brake hose) and no help available. Gravity bleed worked fine, just wait till you have a steady stream of fluid (not sputtering or intermittent). Slowly close bleeder and tighten it.
Jack :steering:
Just had to do an "emergency" gravity bleed on my Z 28 over the weekend (bad brake hose) and no help available. Gravity bleed worked fine, just wait till you have a steady stream of fluid (not sputtering or intermittent). Slowly close bleeder and tighten it.
Jack :steering:
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Re: Speed bleeders basic question (kittmaster)
Brake fluid is useful for about 2 years tops!
The term "bleed" is used often. Bleeding is required when air is introduced into "good" fluid due to maintanance or failure of the system.
Brake fluid needs to be FLUSHED every two years, at least, under normal useage. Complete flush, every drop. There have been so many posts on this forum over the years regarding brake problems that, IMO are totally due to old fluid, or improper bleeding/flushing that it almost defines the largest braking problem on the C4 posted here.
There are lots of ways to flush the fluid, speedbleeders are one way. Proper proceedure / knowledge is required to bleed / flush the system. Speedbleeders help with one common problem : letting air in from the bleeders. Still not fool-proof.
The term "bleed" is used often. Bleeding is required when air is introduced into "good" fluid due to maintanance or failure of the system.
Brake fluid needs to be FLUSHED every two years, at least, under normal useage. Complete flush, every drop. There have been so many posts on this forum over the years regarding brake problems that, IMO are totally due to old fluid, or improper bleeding/flushing that it almost defines the largest braking problem on the C4 posted here.
There are lots of ways to flush the fluid, speedbleeders are one way. Proper proceedure / knowledge is required to bleed / flush the system. Speedbleeders help with one common problem : letting air in from the bleeders. Still not fool-proof.
Racer
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From: corvallis or
Re: Speed bleeders basic question (PeteL)
:iagree: :iagree: :iagree:
GREAT POINT PETE
I prefer the Pheonix Injector for bleeding/flushing because it will do vaccum or pressure which is great for clutches.
GREAT POINT PETE
I prefer the Pheonix Injector for bleeding/flushing because it will do vaccum or pressure which is great for clutches.
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Re: Speed bleeders basic question (PeteL)
Is there any info on the procedure to follow for flushing brake fluid on a C4?
I have 4 speed bleeders to install and want to flush the fluid out. My fluid is believed to be original from 1995 (33K miles on car). I want to flush it out and pour in some Valvoline SynPower DOT 3/4 fluid. Not after the top racing fluid, just the best off the shelf parts store fluid, and the SynPower stuff is supposed to be pretty good. I did all four brakes with new pads last week so this should round out the brake job.
I have 4 speed bleeders to install and want to flush the fluid out. My fluid is believed to be original from 1995 (33K miles on car). I want to flush it out and pour in some Valvoline SynPower DOT 3/4 fluid. Not after the top racing fluid, just the best off the shelf parts store fluid, and the SynPower stuff is supposed to be pretty good. I did all four brakes with new pads last week so this should round out the brake job.
Brake fluid is useful for about 2 years tops!
The term "bleed" is used often. Bleeding is required when air is introduced into "good" fluid due to maintanance or failure of the system.
Brake fluid needs to be FLUSHED every two years, at least, under normal useage. Complete flush, every drop. There have been so many posts on this forum over the years regarding brake problems that, IMO are totally due to old fluid, or improper bleeding/flushing that it almost defines the largest braking problem on the C4 posted here.
There are lots of ways to flush the fluid, speedbleeders are one way. Proper proceedure / knowledge is required to bleed / flush the system. Speedbleeders help with one common problem : letting air in from the bleeders. Still not fool-proof.
The term "bleed" is used often. Bleeding is required when air is introduced into "good" fluid due to maintanance or failure of the system.
Brake fluid needs to be FLUSHED every two years, at least, under normal useage. Complete flush, every drop. There have been so many posts on this forum over the years regarding brake problems that, IMO are totally due to old fluid, or improper bleeding/flushing that it almost defines the largest braking problem on the C4 posted here.
There are lots of ways to flush the fluid, speedbleeders are one way. Proper proceedure / knowledge is required to bleed / flush the system. Speedbleeders help with one common problem : letting air in from the bleeders. Still not fool-proof.
Le Mans Master
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Re: Speed bleeders basic question
Is there any info on the procedure to follow for flushing brake fluid on a C4?
I have 4 speed bleeders to install and want to flush the fluid out. My fluid is believed to be original from 1995 (33K miles on car). I want to flush it out and pour in some Valvoline SynPower DOT 3/4 fluid. Not after the top racing fluid, just the best off the shelf parts store fluid, and the SynPower stuff is supposed to be pretty good. I did all four brakes with new pads last week so this should round out the brake job.
I have 4 speed bleeders to install and want to flush the fluid out. My fluid is believed to be original from 1995 (33K miles on car). I want to flush it out and pour in some Valvoline SynPower DOT 3/4 fluid. Not after the top racing fluid, just the best off the shelf parts store fluid, and the SynPower stuff is supposed to be pretty good. I did all four brakes with new pads last week so this should round out the brake job.
passenger's rear
driver's rear
passenger's front
driver's front
Make sure you keep the brake resovoir full while bleeding the system. You can keep an eye on it if you pump the brake pedal while standing, or just only pump 3 or 4 times and then check the level. You won't believe how much better the brakes will feel with fresh fluid. :D
Racer
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From: corvallis or
Re: Speed bleeders basic question (EvanLT1)
:iagree: That sequence is fine, I would reccomend removing the old fluid from the master cylinder and filling with new fluid before you start flushing. This cuts your time down and helps keep less dirt/ contamination from passing through the master cylinder. Just use the turkey baster from the kitchen to suck out the old fluid from your master cylinder it will be next thanksgiving before the wife knows its gone.
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Re: Speed bleeders basic question (jefft84)
I would reccomend removing the old fluid from the master cylinder and filling with new fluid before you start flushing. This cuts your time down and helps keep less dirt/ contamination from passing through the master cylinder. Just use the turkey baster from the kitchen to suck out the old fluid from your master cylinder it will be next thanksgiving before the wife knows its gone.
Melting Slicks
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From: Clever, MO aka SOMO
Re: Speed bleeders basic question (jefft84)
I've been watching this thread with interest. Question is........what brand/type of brake fluid is best for my stock '88 brake system with 163,800 miles?? My fluid is pretty dark, and it may be original for all I know. I've had the car two years, but I know the previous owner changed pads at least once according to his records, but I don't know about the fluid.
Thanks
Thanks
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Re: Speed bleeders basic question
If it's just a street car, then any DOT 3/4 fluid will work fine. I personally prefer Valvoline or Performance Friction because they have higher boiling points, but then I also race my car so that's really important to me. Some folks who race will spend extra money for specialized fluids, but I'd prefer just to bleed the brakes more frequently and use a good reasonably priced fluid.
Le Mans Master
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Re: Speed bleeders basic question (EvanLT1)
The Valvoline SynPower fluid in the gold bottle is supposed to be about the best stuff you can find on most franchise/chain auto parts store shelves. Specialty fluids are no doubt better, if you race or auto cross though. Synpower is purported to exceed DOT3, and DOT4 standards (but not rated as DOT5).
On a side note, I was telling some co-workers about how I intend to flush my brake fluid because its still original and they gave me these blank stares. They'd never heard of changing brake fluid, yet they're always mouthing off trying to show that they know it all about maintenance, and performance.
On a side note, I was telling some co-workers about how I intend to flush my brake fluid because its still original and they gave me these blank stares. They'd never heard of changing brake fluid, yet they're always mouthing off trying to show that they know it all about maintenance, and performance.
Instructor
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From: Villa Ridge, Missouri
Re: Speed bleeders basic question (Lone Ranger)
Uhm.. I have a question.. With all this brake bleeding going on. :) Were can you dispose of the used fluid? I've got a peanut butter jar's worth sitting in the store room not knowing where or how to get rid of..
Instructor
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From: Anacortes WA
Re: Speed bleeders basic question (Blk-94)
My .02,
Took mine to the local hazardous waste collection site with all of my old oil coolant. Didn't cost anything other than time and the gas to drive my wife's SUV to the site. Good Luck.
Bruce :chevy
Took mine to the local hazardous waste collection site with all of my old oil coolant. Didn't cost anything other than time and the gas to drive my wife's SUV to the site. Good Luck.
Bruce :chevy
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Northern CA
Re: Speed bleeders basic question (Blk-94)
Were can you dispose of the used fluid?
Your city or county should have a hazmat disposal facility which will take just about all automotive fluids as well, no charge to residents.
Protect the environment...dispose it properly :cheers:
Safety Car
Joined: May 2002
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From: Somewhere nowhere
Re: Speed bleeders basic question
that vavoline or the castrol LMA is the best stuff around. all (most) of the race fluids ABSORB MOISTURE so fast, it's a waste of money. but of course, no one realizes that, and they spend mega money for nothing.
Larry - who has tried but never boiled the castrol LMA :D
Larry - who has tried but never boiled the castrol LMA :D