Time-serts actually fit flush to the mating surface as they are chamfered/counter-bored to sit flat in the flange.

http://www.timesert.com/images/spark...r/image011.jpg

Ordinarily I'd say the thread chaser is not a bad idea, but if he's already got that bolt near the final torque stage and it's not holding, then those threads are pretty gone. An insert of some kind is the best move.

One thing I thought I'd mention; those bolts (because they often have sealer residue on them) should be cleaned / chased with a 3/8" x 16tpi die so that their threads are perfect before you reinstall them to the motor. If they're gunked up with anything the chances of damaging the aluminum threads are higher - that may have been part of the reason those threads stripped in the first place. When you take those off to fix, I recommend chasing/cleaning all those bolts first before applying new sealer and reinstalling.

At least it's an LT1 and your manifold is one piece, as opposed to us L98s with the runners / upper plenum / 50 gaskets to undo and replace, etc...

 

When I am working on a engine I run all the loose hardware through a tumbler and then I put them through a die if they are still dirty. Sometimes I used the Sandblasting cabinet and use the bucket to clean the hardware as that works very quickly. The time I built my BB I used all new A.R.P. bolts as I purchased a Kit which had every bolt that a BB engine uses in and on it. I also have a nice accurate Digital Torque Wrench and I use it regularly. Anytime you are bolting something to a softer metal like aluminum you use anti-seize and a torque wrench. I still torque my spark plugs and other parts as I am an old fart who has not changed his habits..

The thread chaser is not "likely" to fix the problem, it is however worth trying as after a cleanup you might still have threads down below. Sometimes another 3-5 mm of threads can save the day with a slightly longer bolt. I have avoided having to do anything but use a slightly longer bolt and you are good to go.

That appears to be more work installing the Time-sert compared to the Heli-coil. I am used to cleaning the hole, drilling it out with the supplied bit. Then blow it out or vacuum it to clear the hole of any metal flakes or other junk and using the Insert tool to screw the heli-coil in place after putting a little Red Lock-tight on the threads. Boom you are done and it is ready for use. We used them in several sizes and places on a VW air-cooled Engine Block.

I suggested the Tap and Die as I am aware it cost more to buy a couple of those than just getting a set that has all the sizes in it. Getting the Metric Tap and Die really helps!

 

helicoil with a dob of red loctite and you are done.

HOWEVER you do it, be mindful of if the hole is a pass through hole, or if it bottoms out. there is a tang on the bottom of the helicoil that is used to turn the coils into the newly tapped hole and it is typically broken off of the coil spring once the threads are turned in to the desired depth. you do not want to break that tang off and have it fall into the valley below.

just be mindful of all of this. you can likely break the tang off before, and still thread the coil in. maybe it works upside down and you can pull it off with needle nose, if so, stuff the hole with something to stop it from falling out of the jaw into the hole.

maybe all this is moot and its a blinded hole at the bottom, not sure. quick hit and run for me on this thread hope you get it sorted. helicoils are crazy easy. learned the hard way not to overtighten my trans pan bolts on my 85 i brought back from the dead years ago. since then, i've done it a few more times.

 

I'm not worried about the tang the hole just opens into the top of the block where the lifters and everything is and I can just grab it out of there.

 

Any route you take, the most important part is metal shavings and that tang on the helicoil

time sert is a better repair.

helicoil is easier.

red loctite won’t do jack if you don’t drill and tap straight. Let alone the heat from the heads will loosen the bond.

slow and steady. Use two other bolts as an angle guide. Have a friend line you up from across the motor and in line on the same side.

My super ram has every hole helicoiled. They work great. Slow and steady.

 

I'd like to thank everyone who convinced me to helicoil. I got it installed and all the stuff I needed only ran me 53 dollars. Just torqued down my home made bolt hole. Hopefully it doesn't leak this time

 

Should I change oil immediately after or let it run for a minute to let any small pieces of gasket or dirt go down I to the pan. I'm pretty sure I got everything out but I'm certainly not a perfect mechanic by any stretch of the word

 

Great to hear that it's fixed; that's the main goal of everyone offering advice and help.

I think you'd be good running it a bit (maybe 20 miles or so) and then changing the oil. There will definitely be some small debris that would come out with the first drain / oil change. Opinions vary on that though.

 

Good work! I knew you could do it! You are "Da Man" as you saved yourself several hundreds of dollars!

Tangs falling into the motor is not that common. I use a very narrow set of pliers to get the pin out by bending it until it breaks as it is pre-scored to break off. A magnet in the hole while you break it off should help I would imagine.

I don't think the Time-Sert is a "better" repair as it has more tools needed to install the inserts and thus the potential for boo boos increases. I like the simplicity of the Heli-coil and since I have the multi size installation Kits already I don't see any reason to change tools and stock. As long as they both do the same job it really doesn't matter.

I like magnets attached to the outer skin of the oil filter. I have some from Summit that has been used for years on the C3 and C4. They are there just for added safety in case any metallic parts flowing trough my oil getting caught outside of my engine. I cut the filters open to ensure they have nothing substantial attached inside where the magnets are mounted. They are strong magnets and not easy to remove when oily.