Hey yall, I have a 1990 Vette that I rebuilt the motor and finally got started today (she sounds sweet) but noticed that I had 2 leaks in the fuel line, both on the supply line. one leak is behind the gas tank, and the other is around the underside of storage compartment that is behind the passenger seat. looking at the lines it looks like a major pain to remove but I'm trying to do this job as correctly as possible (i.e. not throwing some jb weld on the leaks and hoping for the best) do I need to drop the diff and snake the old line out and replace it with a new OEM one (do they even make those anymore?) Could I run stainless braided hose alone on the same path as the hardline and call that good? I know I need to fix it, I just don't know what the best option is. I'd like to do braided hose just cuz it seems like less work than dealing with the hardlines. but ill do whatever is needed.
Here's my main question: can I use a braided hose to replace the rear hardline section of fuel lines or do I need to use hardlines. and for either answer, where can I get it?
For reference (Idk if it helps but here it is)
1990 Vette
carb swapped
new gas tank, pump, sending unit, filter.
even if you don't have an answer to my question, any advice or guidance is helpful.
thanks yall

 

Easy to run aluminum fuel line. Easy to bend and cheap. I did my 88 this way, pressure and return. No issues

 

good to know, how hard was it to install? I'm assuming you had to pull the bumper and gas tank, anything else? also, where did you get the tube?
thanks

 

I’ve has braided stainless front to back for years now with no problems. Did it mostly because I didn’t want to deal with taking the rear of the car apart. Aluminum tubing would be a good choice if your more industrious than me. Also there are complete kits available of pre-bent lines.

 

oh sweet. Did you run them along the same path as the stock lines or just somewhere out of the way to avoid all the moving parts? also where do you recommend getting that kinda length of tubing?
thanks
edit: also is the fuel filter in the same spot or did you relocate it, and is it all one length of the tube, or is it in sections?
sorry for all the questions, I'm just really eager to get this thing on the road asap
thanks again

 

My whole car was apart but did the lines with the tank installed, but the rear bumper was off.
I used Parker push lok hose from tank down to fuel pump and filter which i mounted below tank (everything is also using-6 an fittings for push lok) From there I used same hose to the front of rear right tire. Then the aluminum line was ran in stock location in the channel on right side. (2 lines, feed and return even though its carbed I have a bypass regulator at engine. I also made my own clamps in that chanel). Then its back to Parker hose near where the stock filter was, and up into firewall.
No reason you can't use hose the entire run. I did what I did if I ever decide to go back to injected.
On the tank side I found out the original return line goes all the way into tank. So basically I flipped the return and feed lines. Worked perfectly (obviously the in tank pump is gone and is now the return line)
Summit has everything and its family cheap.
I have a long running thread in the c4 general called just for the hell of it. Lots of pics there. Good luck!

 

Yep, I pretty much followed where the existing lines were from the tank up to where the filter is. Kept the filter in the stock location. Use appropriate sized clamps and AN fittings. From the filter forward I went up then along the a/c lines, under the compressor to the fuel rail. Covered that run with heat resistant tube. I think I got hose from Summit, just tell them what you need.

Fosters system is a good one as well. Hose from the tank to hard lines along the frame. Best of luck with your project.

 

Classic Tube makes a complete set of fuel lines out of stainless or regular steel. They come pre-bent and pre-terminated so they are easy to install where the originals went. They also ship quickly from their factory in Upstate NY.

I did a C3 with Stainless Braided -6 lines and with the Teflon insert they weathered the gas fairly well. I replaced it after ten years of usage due to lack of knowledge how long the fuel line will last with ethanol in the gas.

Most recently I installed a Holey Sniper EFI system and part of the kit included the Earl's Black Fuel Hose for fuel lines. I replaced the old tank sending unit with a new Holley OEM Fuel Tank Module. I then ran the Earl's tubing up along the frame out of the way and up to the back of the intake. I brought the fuel line in from the rear of the intake to try and keep the fuel cooler and more direct. I put a Flame resistant Insulation on the hose from the frame up to the Fuel intake. Overall the Earl's system might be the least expensive way and you don't need any special tools or knowledge to assemble it. The system I have now will hold 50 pounds pressure for weeks at a time.

One year the morning of a long trip in the C3 I saw fuel dripping on the ground as I had a Perforated Fuel Supply line. I took a small piece of rubber sheet and wrapped the hole and put a hose clamp on the outside. That solved the problem, but on a Fuel Injected Car the fuel is under pressure it might not be a good idea... Fuel leaks under pressure can get real ugly really fast....

 

thanks, off-topic question but how did you attach the throttle cable to the carb? I still have the stock cable held on by a zip tie and id like it to be a little more secure

 

I also have the stainless pre-bent lines from Classic Tube on my c4, they are really nice, but a pain to install. Definitely not possible to do without dropping the differential. I was kicking myself because I had already had the entire rear suspension and diff out earlier in the year but didn't think to put in the fuel lines until I had already put everything back together.

 

I used a bracket from summit that mounts under the carb. Literally the cheapest one they had and works perfectly. As far as the end of the cable I had to slightly drill the hole out to 1/4 inch if I recall. That allowed me to use a pin, spring, and cotter pin to attach to carb.