lorenzo1987c4

I don’t know what else to do and I can’t seem to find anyone else talk about this on the forum or youtube. Mine is on here with 3 t15 bolts and I’ve gone through so many bits and they’ve all broke. Any recommendations?

UPDATE!!!

When I originally tried to get the screws out, the engine was cold. Wasn’t thinking about it at the time but I thought to myself “simple science” maybe when the engine is hot, they’d be easier to loosen and sure enough they came right off. Now I did wd40 them a few days back which might of helped but compared to the day they were breaking bits, they came off like butter when the engine was hot as well.

ex-x-fire

Snap On gold bits are the strongest, see if you can find one on ebay. You could drill the out too.

sb66

the bits broke? mine are just snugged down - pb blast maybe let it soak a bit then give it a go?

- may take a bit depending on how stuck - be careful not to round them off they would be a pain

lorenzo1987c4

Thanks for the quick reply I’ll look into that. The ones I had were from harbor freight and autozone but wasn’t expecting it to be that tight.

lorenzo1987c4

I hit it with some wd40 and let it soak for a little bit but no luck. I have so pb laying around so i’ll try that next along with finding a stronger bit

s carter

As already mentioned lube up with a good nut buster, Quality bits a must Harbor Freight don't cut it for stuck.

. What I found worked for me was to with good bit put some load on it and hit the Torx driver with hammer to help break free

FostersPerformance

I was gonna say that as well.....give the bit on the screw head a few love taps and try it....but best bet is to use an impact driver (a manual one). They turn as you hit the top of them.

lorenzo1987c4

i ordered a felo bit from ebay for a few bucks and apparently it’s supposed to be tough so i’m gonna try this when it comes in. I thought this would be the easiest step of the tuneup 😂

Matt139889

Autozone and Harbor Freight may be the issue. Not to be an *** but garbage tools break and can / will ruin fasteners. Usually in a very hard to reach or inconvenient place.

c.w.moss

Like Fosters Performance recommended.Try and find one of the impact type drivers used on older motorcycles, for busting the screws in the side cases loose.You hit it with a hammer. That should pop those screws loose.

383vett

If you booger up the head of the torx, pick the next larger size, tap it into place with a hammer and extension, and you should be good to go.

Went

I have filed off the end of a torx bit or allen wrench with a file or grinding wheel...just a little bit to give the wrench end a bit of "tooth"(sharp edges). These sharp edges will usually grip the inside of a worn or slightly stripped socket of the bolt head. Then use some tapping on the wrench/bit to make it grip more as you turn the tool. I used that method over many years working on Epson ink cartridge production machines when making repairs. Sometimes the tapping of the wrench as you turn it is enough.

Went

ssv1761982

I would try a 1/4" impact driver with your new good bit.

sb66

i have used the manual impact driver on a motorcycle bit before - works well - maybe even longer handled bar with slow even pressure to break it loose - carefully - other wise you could be into those left handed bits - and drilling things out

ctmccloskey

I would still heat it up and spray the penetrating oil on it and see if it will draw any of the oil into the joints. A good Hot Air Gun is enough and some good penetrating oil. Kroil Oil is my favorite and it really works well!

I had an old BSA 441 Victor Motorcycle and it was where you needed a good hand held manual impact and a big hammer. That was a beast and it had a lot of stuck fasteners to practice on. Then it had Wentworth (SP?) Threads on it so I had to buy a new set of wrenches and sockets just to work on it without using adjustable wrenches all the time.

Sometimes a "tiny" bit of tightening before loosening it. The idea of tapping it on the top makes sense and has worked in the past. I like Penetrating oil, lots of it and some heat to help pull it in.

Auto parts stores now carry a spray product to freeze things as well. It is like the stuff we used in electronics and it cools the part down very quickly. The idea is that you heat it up and then cool it down right away can/will break the connection between the metals. Being a steel screw into an aluminum plenum it should really have had anti-seize on it from the factory. Dis-similar metals can do some wacky stuff overtime.

Good Luck!