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Hello all,
I just got my first corvette (1984 C4), and it has a locked up motor, I tried for a while to get it unstuck but it is locked up tight, there was a ton of water in the oil pan, valve covers were off for 15 yrs etc... I am looking to do a motor swap but also keeping it as original as possible and with the awesome gauge cluster working, with maybe a few smaller mods(camshaft, fuel pump, open for other suggestions as well) What would be the easiest and most cost effective route to go? Was planning on going to a local junkyard and pulling a 350 from a 90s model chevy and swapping all the accessories over. Anything else that I need to look out for, tips or tricks? I am a young guy and this is my first project car and I am trying to learn as much as possible.
Thanks in advance!
First things First, Welcome to the Corvette ForumHuskey411!
Are you planning on keeping the Corvette with it's Crossfire Injection System? There are lots of Cross fire experts on this site that can help you on this forum and some of them have really fast cross fire injected Corvettes!
You are going to have to "pull" the engine so I would pull it and tear it down to see what kind of condition it is in. You might be lucky and have minimum about of work needed. You might get away with a new short block or the motor might be trashed.
Said it sat for 15 yrs was full of water
Op...headers, true dual exh (if you dont have smog), small cam work out good
PCM for less can tune it reasonably
There are aftermarket TPI intakes that flow better used...the superram isnt cheap but works great
Cams in the low to mid 2teens@050, 112-114lsa work great; A good valve job and bowl blend certainly help
I would like to keep the crossfire, I think its an interesting system and I am trying to keep the motor stock. I am pretty certain though that I am going to have to do a swap. I was mostly wondering things about a swap, like do I need to worry about certain years for the 350 that wont be a direct bolt in replacement, or anything like that.
Said it sat for 15 yrs was full of water
Op...headers, true dual exh (if you dont have smog), small cam work out good
PCM for less can tune it reasonably
There are aftermarket TPI intakes that flow better used...the superram isnt cheap but works great
Cams in the low to mid 2teens@050, 112-114lsa work great; A good valve job and bowl blend certainly help
That is another thing I was wondering, if I remove the smog pump and change the headers, would that have any gain in power or any benefits? I believe the previous owner, an older guy who got old and couldn't mess with it anymore already has put a true dual exhaust out the rear. He also swapped the 4+3 with a 6 speed.
I would just go shopping for a crate engine either a 350 or 383 with aluminum heads. I would not waste time and money on originality. The CFI intake will require some porting to clean it up. The other choice is the LS route. Find a LS donor for engine transmission harness and PCM. There is lots of.information to perform swap.
I would like to keep the crossfire, I think its an interesting system and I am trying to keep the motor stock. I am pretty certain though that I am going to have to do a swap. I was mostly wondering things about a swap, like do I need to worry about certain years for the 350 that wont be a direct bolt in replacement, or anything like that.
1984 block has 2 pc rear main seal and flat top pistons. 1986 and older intake manifold bolt pattern is standard bolt pattern.1986 started having 1 pc rear main seal. different style crankshaft and flex plate for auto trans. newer motors could have dished pistons
the big problem with getting more hp out of crossfire is the intake manifold. calculating from cross section area,
runner only flow 150 -159 cfm . cylinder head flow 196 cfm.
there's members on this forum that have ported there intakes. they would know how much material can be removed and where its safe.
my porting job was different because I was afraid of cutting into a water jacket. I built up the top of the intake port by adding weld and then raised the port a .25". took a long time. now outflow the head by just a little. can always weld it more if I get new heads.
some useful sites Xfire Performance XFire PerformanceWallace Racing - Automotive Calculators
That is another thing I was wondering, if I remove the smog pump and change the headers, would that have any gain in power or any benefits? I believe the previous owner, an older guy who got old and couldn't mess with it anymore already has put a true dual exhaust out the rear. He also swapped the 4+3 with a 6 speed.
can remove all smog parts. but need to change original o2 sensor with a heated o2 sensor
From: Liliha Bakery stuffing my face with coco puffs!
Originally Posted by Huskey411
That is another thing I was wondering, if I remove the smog pump and change the headers, would that have any gain in power or any benefits? I believe the previous owner, an older guy who got old and couldn't mess with it anymore already has put a true dual exhaust out the rear. He also swapped the 4+3 with a 6 speed.
In addition...depending on which 6 speed that might steer the direction of 2 piece vs 1 piece rms. My understanding LT1 t56 w 2 piece requires a special flywheel that is quite pricey. I'd identify what you have before purchasing anything.
In addition...depending on which 6 speed that might steer the direction of 2 piece vs 1 piece rms. My understanding LT1 t56 w 2 piece requires a special flywheel that is quite pricey. I'd identify what you have before purchasing anything.
I'm going to agree with Steve here, pull the motor and see what you have. I'm also going to say to pull the heads and inpsect the cylinders, then inpect the bottom end to see how usable the engine is.
I would just go shopping for a crate engine either a 350 or 383 with aluminum heads. I would not waste time and money on originality. The CFI intake will require some porting to clean it up. The other choice is the LS route. Find a LS donor for engine transmission harness and PCM. There is lots of.information to perform swap.
Originally Posted by mike1111
1984 block has 2 pc rear main seal and flat top pistons. 1986 and older intake manifold bolt pattern is standard bolt pattern.1986 started having 1 pc rear main seal. different style crankshaft and flex plate for auto trans. newer motors could have dished pistons
the big problem with getting more hp out of crossfire is the intake manifold. calculating from cross section area,
runner only flow 150 -159 cfm . cylinder head flow 196 cfm.
there's members on this forum that have ported there intakes. they would know how much material can be removed and where its safe.
my porting job was different because I was afraid of cutting into a water jacket. I built up the top of the intake port by adding weld and then raised the port a .25". took a long time. now outflow the head by just a little. can always weld it more if I get new heads.
some useful sites Xfire Performance XFire PerformanceWallace Racing - Automotive Calculators
Originally Posted by 64Scout
I'm going to agree with Steve here, pull the motor and see what you have. I'm also going to say to pull the heads and inpsect the cylinders, then inpect the bottom end to see how usable the engine is.
Your 84 has or should have the TRW forged pistons unless original owner changed them. I would tear engine down and see if worth it to rebuild. I freshened up my 84 with new rings , bearings, cam, and a set of Summit/Dart 152123 cast iron heads. Also did a swap to carb set up. Your engine may not need that much work but worth a teardown to find out! Good luck.