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What are some of the popular and reliable performance upgrades I can do to my 96 that does not involve the lower-end?
Also, my options sticker says I have the 'Performance Axle Ratio', (G92) what does that mean in actual gear ratio? (and what is stock?)
G92 just means the owner bought the better axle ratio available in that year, it triggers another Gxx code that designates the actual ratio. G44 would be 3.07s for the automatic.
Either way, the LT1 needs even more gear in Auto or manual form. 3.54 or 3.73 for the auto and 4.10 for the stick. Auto needs more stall on the TC as well, 2200-2400rpm. Together they'll make it jump off the line.
But typical mod is LT4 intake/hotcam kit/1.6RR, and headwork or new heads/cam combo from someone like Lloyd Elliot, and then finish with a custom tune.
G92 just means the owner bought the better axle ratio available in that year, it triggers another Gxx code that designates the actual ratio. G44 would be 3.07s for the automatic.
Either way, the LT1 needs even more gear in Auto or manual form. 3.54 or 3.73 for the auto and 4.10 for the stick. Auto needs more stall on the TC as well, 2200-2400rpm. Together they'll make it jump off the line.
But typical mod is LT4 intake/hotcam kit/1.6RR, and headwork or new heads/cam combo from someone like Lloyd Elliot, and then finish with a custom tune.
Just FYI I talked to Lloyd Elliott this week and there are zero cam cores available for the LT1/4. I called to get a custom grind and he hasn't been able to sell any since April.
Just FYI I talked to Lloyd Elliott this week and there are zero cam cores available for the LT1/4. I called to get a custom grind and he hasn't been able to sell any since April.
G92 just means the owner bought the better axle ratio available in that year, it triggers another Gxx code that designates the actual ratio. G44 would be 3.07s for the automatic.
Either way, the LT1 needs even more gear in Auto or manual form. 3.54 or 3.73 for the auto and 4.10 for the stick. Auto needs more stall on the TC as well, 2200-2400rpm. Together they'll make it jump off the line.
But typical mod is LT4 intake/hotcam kit/1.6RR, and headwork or new heads/cam combo from someone like Lloyd Elliot, and then finish with a custom tune.
Great info Darth. I want hard acceleration, but I'm not really interested in 'launching' my sled. I'm too old for that and it already smokes 305s if I mat the pedal, ASR OFF.
I believe in combinations that are tried and true to work together. Intake, injectors, cam, rockers, springs (or complete heads) and exhaust.
What is a known combination that works well? I haven't done it yet, because I haven't found any decent exhaust systems for it. And there's no point getting more air in, if it can't get it out!
Last edited by Stylincoyote; Oct 19, 2021 at 12:56 PM.
Vader gave a good suggestion, tried and true. id go aftermaket on heads they are so much better.
If you have an auto and put any cam in it you want a converter that will allow the cam to work the way its designed to.
There are plenty of other cam companies out there btw. Many poo poo the GM cam but its ramps will live a long time and are on a steel core not a cheap chinese iron one so they last. Seeing more and more HR cams going flat out there
I want hard acceleration, but I'm not really interested in 'launching' my sled. I'm too old for that and it already smokes 305s if I mat the pedal, ASR OFF.
Okay, just to make sure this is clear -- it already smokes the tires on a hard launch, which you're not interested in doing anymore.
But, you want harder acceleration.
Please forgive me if this sounds obtuse or sarcastic, but what do you intend to do with any additional torque?
Summit Racing has several "cat back" exhaust systems available to order. Some are a ways off for shipping (probably sitting on a boat somewhere just off US shores). Borla, Corsa, Magnaflow, FlowMaster and others are available.
There are also headers available for the 1996 C4 Corvette (LT1 engine).
LT1 cams are also available. A few are in stock, other are currently on order with estimated ship dates out into 2022. You might not be able to find a custom grind, but there are some parts on the shelf that might work for you.
I didn't look at torque converters, but a higher stall converter is a good idea. You don;t' have to go nuts there, but 2500-2750 RPMs makes a big difference from stock without getting crazy revs in day to day driving.
Jegs also has some stuff available that can help.
Shorter rear gears. G92 doesn't show a ratio, but from what I can see that means 3.07:1 in 1996 with an automatic 4L60E, either G44 or HE3 is the RPO for the actual ratio. For an upgrade, 3:43:1 is a better choice for the LT1. 7.5/7.625 gears were standard. The "G87" RPO code indicates 8.5" rear end gears. If you have the 7.625" rear diff housing, I may have some gears here if you want to DM me.
I don't believe that changing the "Cat back" exhaust on an LT! nets much if any gain. The stock exhaust is good. I'd spend money elsewhere unless you want sound, then I'd R&R the mufflers only.
I also agree w/Vader; gears, converter, hotcam for starters. Heads if you need more.
I don't believe that changing the "Cat back" exhaust on an LT! nets much if any gain. The stock exhaust is good. I'd spend money elsewhere unless you want sound, then I'd R&R the mufflers only
Generally I'd agree with you. But I saw "Location: Motor City" below OP's avatar, and he did mention exhaust. Without knowing if that car has been garaged in the winter, I just mentioned that replacement exhaust parts/systems are available.
Given what's available, and the goals expressed, I'll be a +1 for the GM Performance cam, along with shorter gears (bigger numbers) and a higher stall converter.
I can only tell you about my own experience. I drive a 95 A4 and have been driving it for 17 years. It came with the 3.07 rear ratio. I had the following done to it:
LT4 hot cam kit
HD timing chain & sprocket kit
LS7 lifters
Stainless Works LT headers & RT cats (retained stock cat back dual exhaust.)
Dyno tune
The car was run on the same mustang dyno both before and after the mods. I gained approx 40RWHP. Oh yeah one other thing ........ this was done 70,000 miles ago and still no issues.
A short time later to increase driving fun I had the 4l60e built up with better grade components and after spending time on the phone with Yank explaining what I wanted out of my particular car I went with their recommendation and purchased a Yank SS3200 TC.
I bought the car with 30K on it. I had all of the work done back when the car had 70K on it. Car now has 140K on it and I drive it every week.
Yeah I agree, the stock LT1 exhaust is pretty good. If you want headers, that would be the only thing I'd change. The resonators to the catback already flow well, the difference between all of them is the sound and resonance.
But if you want hard acceleration, it is the gears and TC that will get you that. Together they put you in the LT1's higher RPM band immediately, so it can feel like a totally different car, you will feel the acceleration more from the stop than you would from 40-70mph.
If you were looking for more high RPM pull, say 60-100mph, then its camshaft, RR, tune, maybe heads. I would still at least do the TC to 2400rpm (I personally don't like a stall above 2400 on the street).
All sound advise here. I can say I went from 2.59 rear gears to 3.54 and holy smokes, what a difference! Mines a 93 so I’m still farting around with the governor to get the shift points high enough, but still— like Darth said, new car.
I had thought to go with a new TC, but went with a shift kit instead.
I've also chosen to run TiPS headers into the stock exhaust as my next upgrade, but that’s still in the future.
Fir me, it was about how to most effectively get the power the car already makes to the road.