I have an '84 project, hasn't run in 20+ years, etc. Been chasing my no crank, no click situation. Went through the steps in the manual and find myself needing to repair either a pink or purple wire. The manual says to repair the purple wire from the ignition switch. I have a pink wire, o purple wire, booking out of the ignition switch, and the electrical manual seems to point me to a pink wire.

Is it really the pink wire I need to be concerned with? Does anyone have any nuggets of wisdom they can impart for chasing this sucker down?

Also, I noted that the crank circuit flashes hot only for a micro second when I turn the key to run. Is this right?

Thanks.

 

I'd say since they didn't ID Circuit # they're actually maybe referring to PURPLE Cir#6 to solenoid terminal. That reference 6D-3 is actually in the 'manual trans' tree. Is the car a manual trans? It did crank last year and recent past?

Did the diagnostics from 8A-31 send you to the 6D-3?

 

My 84 has an auto trans, and it last cranked over 20+ years ago, long before it landed in my garage. The diagnostic tree is from the auto trans path (see below). It was the steps on page 6D-3 that sent me to the electrical diagram. I first checked voltage at the solenoid S terminal with the key in the start position finding the voltage dropped to zero when the key was turned to start. I used page 8A-13 to find the solenoid terminal on the ignition switch (yellow wire) and got 12v with the key in the start position. This led me to the step instructing to repair the purple wire "from ignition switch." There is no purple wire connecting to the ignition switch, but

noting that page 8A-13 shows a pink wire from the ignition terminal of the ignition switch, I wondered if the shop manual had the color wrong (or my car has the color wrong-wiring I'm certain is original).

Now that you've called page 8A-31 and circuit 6 to my attention, I wonder again about the flicker I got at the crank fuse (see my first post). I also wonder about the neutral safety switch, but the shop manual had not sent me down that path.

I'm happy to chase every path in the book, but does anyone have any insight on the "purple wire" that is supposed to run from the ignition switch? Or other ideas/things to check? Neutral safety switch (I need to find that procedure)?

Thanks, much appreciated!

 

Can you jumper B+ at starter to 'S' Terminal and get CRANK?

There isn't PURPLE at ignition switch.

Try these diagnostics for CRANK. You used 'LIGHTS STAY BRIGHT' in the '84

 

Thanks for that, I will make those checks as well. The ignition switch is new so I can rule that out.

When you say "jumper B+ at starter to S terminal," just so I'm clear, do you mean jumper the two solenoid terminals? I can try that if that's what you mean. With the key in any particular position?

Thanks.

 

Check continuity of starter solenoid wire between Ign. Sw. and starter solenoid terminal. Also you mentioned the voltage dropping to zero with the key in the start Pos., this wire should not have voltage on it except when the key is in the start Pos. i.e. it should not drop to zero, it should be at zero normally and when indexed to the start Pos. go to 12V. This is with the wire disconnected from the solenoid terminal. Maybe your starter is bad?

 

Battery cable @ starter should be B+ (12V) and jumper to S @ solenoid should give you CRANK. If it's NOT run or cranked in 20 years or a very long time - have you removed spark plugs, soaked the cylinders and confirmed the engine isn't locked?

 

Yes, did exactly that and it turns with about 20 ft-lbs of torque.

I'll jumper those two then - with a beefy wire so I don't hurt myself.

 

I checked for voltage on this wire with it disconnected from the solenoid. It had 12+v, but I don't recall if I had the key in "run" or in "off". I will test continuity along the path from S terminal to ignition switch this evening.

Thanks.

 

So with the gear selector in Park or Neutral, I should have continuity from the ignition terminal for the yellow wire, through to the connector at the S terminal purple wire, correct?

Thanks.

 

Tons of great info, thanks!

Quick update: ran out of time to do much last night but had time to hook up the battery and hit the key... Yep, faint click on turning to start coming from where the dash would be, and the Security light won't turn off (it's on continuously). So I think my task is to check continuity first from ignition switch to SIR (yellow), then SIR to the neutral switch (grn/wht), then neutral switch to the S terminal (purple). If all good, the issue may be at the UTD. Is that basically right?

Photo for fun, this is the state of the dash. I removed the dash to check/clean up grounds and deal with a lot of rust from years of condensation. You can see the security light illuminated.

 

I had not had a reason to use the key in the doors until today. Got them lubricated and turning, but no luck - the security light did not turn off, and the door locks, well, wouldn't. Just stayed unlocked no matter what. But that is a concern for once its running.

So, I disconnected the SIR and jumpered the purple and a green/white wire as you suggested...YES! Cranked vigorously!

Ok, so the assumption is a bad UTD module? The clicking tells me the SIR is working OK. I'm going to study my manuals but further hints are much appreciated.

Thanks!

 

Thanks that worked. I grounded the light green wires and noted that the SECURITY light did not turn off. So I disconnected the battery again and went about my other projects, came back a while later and reconnected the battery, and the light was off. And the engine turned over.