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I pulled my distributor out today and discovered the gear at the bottom was badly worn, almost half the teeth were badly damaged.
This is following an event where the car suddenly stopped and won’t start again.
What might have caused this? Should I be worried about my engine?
it’s a 1991 base model.
Sounds like the distributor has been changed, and a non "melonized" gear was on the replacement distributor. The gears are different heat treatments for use with hardened roller-lifter camshafts such as used in the 91 L98. The earlier non-melonized gear wears rapidly when placed on a roller lifter camshaft. The gears transmit a lot of torque to drive the oil pump. The oil pump load is what wears the gear.
That's good to hear. I'll inspect the camshaft for damage and replace the gear with a melonized one. Thanks for the help!
The camshaft gear should be fine, it is harder than the distributor gear, as you've noticed.
Be advised that the two gear types generally have different shaft dimensions which are about .015 difference. The melonized gear has a smaller hole diameter. I am not familiar with availability of different shafts and gears dimensions in "large cap" HEI distributors, but the large cap distributor was used in both flat-tappet and roller-tappet camshaft applications, so it may be possible that there are two "different" distributors that appear identical, but the shaft diameter and the gear they use is different. Measure the shaft diameter. This is the kind of minutia that can drive you nuts if you don't know about it when sourcing parts.
Oh yeah, thanks for that information. I never would have realized that. I already had the idea that they had replaced the whole distributor, whoever has been in this car before me didn't do a very good job putting it back together. From the pictures I've seen, it looks like they put the distributor in sideways, and most of the bolts holding the cap and coil cover thing on were missing. (there's bolts missing in every part of the car I've been in so far). They also managed to shear off 2 of the bolts holding that plenum extension thing on.
Anyways I'll look into the shaft diameter, thanks again for telling me about that that'll save me a headache.
Since distributor is out make oil pump shaft spins. With key on gauge should register oil pressure.
if something happens were oil pump stop abruptly, distributor gear will lose teeth. It was more common when cam gears used nylon teeth. Teeth would break off and depending on pick up would wedge between the gears.
I replaced the distributor. There is oil pressure on startup. It won’t fire still?? It just cranks, and our spark tester indicates it is getting spark. We tried rotating the rotor 180 degrees, that did nothing either. The brown wire (labeled tach) broke when removing it from the old distributor. Is this important? Would it cause this issue? Any help is appreciated,
thanks
Have you checked fuel pressure 42 psi and holding? Check plugs to besure they aren't fouled. Spray flammable aerosol in throttle body will engine run? Test light can be used to check for pulse. Connect alligator clip to battery positive. Test light will illuminate when probe is grounded. Ecm supplies ground. There are 2 fuses for injectors. You should Google for "no start trouble chart" for your car.
It's easy to check for Reference Pulses, which are required to fire the injectors:
Turn key to RUN, but do not crank. Fuel pump should run for 2 seconds and stop. If = YES:
Crank briefly. Just enough to turn the distributor a turn or so, and stop, but leave key in RUN. Listen for fuel pump, does it run 2 seconds and stop? If = YES, reference pulses were received.
I'll try this, as well as the message above with all the other stuff to test. Anything that might narrow it down.