1996 c4 "pke" system question...
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From: SAINT CHARLES ILLINOIS
1996 c4 "pke" system question...
My C4 has developed a new quirk: at random, the rear hatch switch cycles on/off about every 20 seconds. The hatch opens of course, and the solenoid continuously cycles on and off about every 20 seconds, as though I was pressing the hatch switch. On the dash it reads PASSIVE KEYLESS ENTRY. It appears the only way to stop it other than disconnecting the battery is to pull the 5 amp fuse that says PKE. The key fob was not working properly when I got the car in 2012 so I just stuck it in a drawer without a battery and forgot about it. My question is this: IF I PULL THE FUSE MARKED PKE OUT AND LEAVE IT OUT (which seems to solve the problem of the solenoid going on/off every 20 seconds) WILL IT AFFECT ANY OTHER OPERATIONS? AND WILL THE MESSAGE ON THE DASH REAPPEAR WHEN DRIVING?
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From: Morganville NJ
My PKE wasn't working in my '93 when I bought it 3 years ago. I took the dash pad off and pulled it thinking I could clean the plugs and look for cracked solder joints. Ultimately I bought a junkyard replacement as there doesn't seem to be a repair market out there.
Not too sure what else is affected by the fuse. Will look in my FSM and report back.
Not too sure what else is affected by the fuse. Will look in my FSM and report back.
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From: SAINT CHARLES ILLINOIS
PBELLONE - THANKS. Yea, I really dont care about actually using the key pod, just want to disable the PKE and be done with it... but dont want to be looking at a warning light on the dash.
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OP - do you have the FSM for your car? It appears that maybe there are multiple options for you. The indicator light seems to be powered by the 'door locks' fuse. Your only issue is the aggravation of the release solenoid cycling?
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From: SAINT CHARLES ILLINOIS
WVZR-1 - yes the only issue is the solenoid going on and off every 20 seconds. I have the red factory manual. Its no help on this issue, not mentioned as a possible problem.
I FIXED SOME TYPOS BELOW, SORRY.....
With the PKE fuse pulled out: the door locks still work, console button still works, console hatch button still works. Warning light saying PASSIVE KEYLESS ENTRY is off, BUT my question is will it come back on when driving it? (i.e... is the PKE light on dash tied into anything if the PKE fuse is pulled?)
(the car is on a lift in storage at moment so I cant take it out and see!)
thanks
I FIXED SOME TYPOS BELOW, SORRY.....
With the PKE fuse pulled out: the door locks still work, console button still works, console hatch button still works. Warning light saying PASSIVE KEYLESS ENTRY is off, BUT my question is will it come back on when driving it? (i.e... is the PKE light on dash tied into anything if the PKE fuse is pulled?)
(the car is on a lift in storage at moment so I cant take it out and see!)
thanks
Last edited by Collector Tom; Nov 25, 2021 at 05:18 PM.
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The answers are all in that RED FSM - Once the car is 'off the lift' and driving you'll need to react to 'what you see'. 8A-132-0, 8A-134-0 should head you in the correct direction. It all depends on what you see and 'hear'!! The PKE light is powered by the POWER LOCK fuse, PKE module activates it!!
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From: SAINT CHARLES ILLINOIS
UPDATE re removing the PKE fuse from the fuse box: took the car out for about 15 miles. The Light on the dash that says "PASSIVE KEYLESS ENTRY" did not come on. This is good news. My original issue was the rear hatch solenoid continuously cycling open/close about every 20 seconds. The switch on the door works fine (I replaced that switch about 2 or 3 years ago). So I removed the fuse that says PKE from the fuse box. It appears (at least for now) that removing the PKE fuse does not affect the door lock operation at all and does not appear to affect anything else. So im going to leave it out and see if the hatch solenoid acts up again with no fuse in the box. I have the scematic in the red manual, but my electrical diagnosis skills are weak to say the least.
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Melting Slicks
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From: Longmont Co
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
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From: Longmont Co
A new case can be had for less than $50, and the door cycling was probably due to failure of the PKE unit, not the fob. People are asking for up to $500 for a used fob now.
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From: Motor City
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From: SAINT CHARLES ILLINOIS
Yes maybe I should fix it but if its the PKE system and not the fob I dont want to dump even more $$ into the car. I paid 14k for it (overpaid for 27k miles) in 2012 and since have put another 7k into it. So you can see its already under water. It is a nice car with only 37k miles but its a base LT1.
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From: Motor City
Yes maybe I should fix it but if its the PKE system and not the fob I dont want to dump even more $$ into the car. I paid 14k for it (overpaid for 27k miles) in 2012 and since have put another 7k into it. So you can see its already under water. It is a nice car with only 37k miles but its a base LT1.
Mine works when it wants to. Trying to get EVERY function to work properly in any 26yo car, is asking a lot.