im getting codes for TPS high voltage, TPS intermittent high voltage, and Throttle pedal sensor something or other. cant find anything on a pedal sensor. Sensor is new, twice over. At this point I''m just chasing my tail

 

This is a "TPS" its on the passenger side of your throttle body has to be adjusted with a multitester or ODB1 reader, very touchy voltage has to read .540 thru .549?, mines at .542.
On this site search how to adjust it, I also skinned the plastic coating on the wires to get a good reading.
Yours is very likely bad.

 

this is what mine looks like, and it is the second new one. First one I assumed (my luck) was bad off the shelf. Then I learned how to test it. I am a commercial electrician and have been installing car stereos, alarms, remote starts, you name it 12v since my first car, so I do know how to use a meter and understand the function of potentiometers and such. I guess I should have started from the beginning. I got the car on trade after doing a rough-in job at this guys house. Car was sitting in the yard with grass grown up around it, mind you, no tree's or saplings so assumption lead to it hadn't been sitting too long. Asked what was up with it he said bad fuel pump, was given to them by his mother, he has no sense to begin with especially no mechanical abilities whatsoever. He needed a truck, I had a 96' 4x4 chevy sitting at home that I bought for my son, that him and I were supposed to work on together, he lost interest, so I was wrenching on it. Long story shortened, I pulled the sending unit and about half of it came out! I spent a couple hours draining 10 gals of rotten gas that wouldn't even light on fire, and pulling handfulls of sludge out of the tank, used a shop vac to get what I couldn't reach by hand. Searched and searched for a sending unit and pump that wasn't made of gold and cost $450+ settled for a used one the guy politely raped me of $280 that ended up needing a new $100 pump after all! I then learned all about how much of an A-hole the C4 design engineer was with placement of fuel filter and consequently learned all about flared fittings and more so double flared fittings and that other O-ring that I never knew there was 2 (can I get a shark bite please). Finally emerged from that battle, beat and bloodied, on to...pop the hood and first thing I notice, a little cluster of yellow wire nuts here, a little cluster there, and some over there...*uck! Immediately replaced those with solder, butt splice and tape. While fixing those, noticed the throttle cable, which comes off a weird little motor looking housing to TB was loose no longer clipped in to the bracket, while messing with that i noticed that I couldn't budge the linkage to butterfly, cleaned and freed that up to work smoothly. Another long story short, after finally getting it to fire and run like dog ****, I figured out that the engine coolant was in fact not freon and shouldn't be reading -40, the wire nut genius had mixed up the yellow wires for temp sensor and MAF iirc. Fixed that, after replacing CTS, back to must be fuel issue still. Pulled fuel rails cleaned those best I could, wasn't forking over $800 for new injectors so I soaked those and hoped for the best (my luck prevailed) still ran like crap, first two injectors I pulled out to test i could barely get a drip, found another c4 guy with used injectors, got them for $10/ea. Car fired up, ran rough but much better, so plugs and wires, no sweat I thought!!! I'm ready to hunt this engineer down and throat punch him!!! What tf is this OPTI thing and why tf is it there, can I just do the passenger side twice and call it good! At this point if that 10gals of gas was flammable, I was willing to see how fast this thing become a puddle of fiber glass! I gave it 2 weeks, felt my manhood and knuckles had healed enough to throw down for another *** whoopn, after 6-8hrs of every curse word in the book, matches locked up, cuz the whole puddle thing came up again, and a couple tall boys later, thankfully during the first tall boy while pretzeled in there, and butt splices in my face, I thought to self, check order of wires to opti, sure enough had 2 of those swapped. Finally (Adrian) I yelled out as I claimed victory over that battle! No need to cross fingers, we're goin to do burnouts...emmm not so much, where's the vodka and those f*uckn matches! Code reader says MAF intermittent high voltage, neighbor had one off a pickup, threw it on, then came the TPS high voltage, TPS intermittent high voltage, and throttle pedal position sensor high voltage! Finding no other sensor related to throttle out under the hood, here come pretzel mode again and in reverse sideways swan dive position I was head in on the floor board facing up, resembling a T-REX shackled at the wrists and waste trying to make room for my arm to shine light and find this pedal position sens.....there aint one...if I can get outta here im getting those matches. Needing a chiropractor visit now, I checked the TPS key on, engine off, run through the test from closed to open nice and slow, and back, I see no jumps everything is smooth, never went over 4.9v...car for sale/trade first 30 pack takes all! Oh and don't get me started on these odd ball (apparently) sized tires on the ugliest wheels I've ever seen, and NO affordable solution that doesn't bring the matches back into play! Car runs, 10 times better, but sometimes has a miss, reader says #2, take it for a spin just to see if driving will clear **** up, runs pretty good til hard acceleration, then throws TPS code and falls on its face

this is my TPS

 

[QUOTE=C4nightmares;1604372408] I am a commercial electrician and have been installing car stereos, alarms, remote starts, you name it 12v since my first car, so I do know how to use a meter and understand the function of potentiometers and such. /QUOTE]
Sorry then im under qualified to help you any further.

Make sure you let "Tom400CFI" know about this, he will tell you all about it.

 

[QUOTE=Tim H;1604372628]I was in no way tryn to be disrespectful or devalue any info you were willing to share and was merely stating that I'm some dumbass, not plum dumbass lol. I take it your buddy you mentioned had a run in with some bad gas? I've never been through anything like this and chasing back and forth from sensor to sensor is driving me crazy. I'm in no way a mechanic by my definition, with my luck I'm more of a bull in a china cabinet I usually take a small task and make it hurt lol

 

Ahhh Tim H.... At lease he's aware of his limited qualifications -and was good enough to warn you about it! With regard to the bad gas that you found, based on a previous discussion, Tim must have erroneously ascertained that I don't think that gasoline can "go bad" -ever. His interpretation of things I've said about that, however, is not surprisingly wrong. That's "the story" w/regard to asking me about bad gas. Not much of a story, really...the real story is simply that the guy is all f'ed up over a discussion about an 8oz bottle of Stabil and can't get past it. Poor bastard.




As to your car/issues, first, congrats and strong work on all of the issues that you HAVE worked through...sounds like the car was a real mess. Yikes. With regard to your TPS issue, do you have access to a scan too? Can you drive the car and make a recording, or datalog during a period where it throws the TPS code and then have a look at it to see what the ECM is "seeing" from the TPS at that time?

 

When the TPS was bad on the 91 I had data from my scan tool led me to it because of the voltage it showed. Data log suggested by Tom would really help you to get a bigger picture of current possible problem areas of engine.

 

Tom400CFI I do have access to a BOSCH scanner that my neighbor has. I'm only sorta familiar with it and have not taken the time to really fiddle with it. As soon as I can catch him at his place to get it from him I will. Thats the freeze frame data correct? Is there a certain amount of driving time needed for this, because last time out it didn't take long after erasing codes to throw the TPS which then the car goes into limp mode I believe

 

I just cant see the second brand new one going bad that quickly, but I am going to do as Tom suggested as soon as I can. I appreciate you guys answering, well two of you anyways

 

Tim H Reported. I suggest that you drop this, Tim.



Copy that...yes, that is the "Freeze frame" data -just another term for recording an event. IDK how long a time frame that particular scan tool can record, so that could become a challenge if the recording time is limited and the symptom, hard to get to occur. Check it out though; if you can get the car to do it while you're recording....you should be able to "see" exactly what is happening, which is super nice, when it all works!
I agree with you that it's very unlikely that you got two bad new ones. Possible, but pretty unlikely. What I'd be wondering at this point is if you're experiencing a harness/wiring issue, where the circuit drops out for a second....or something like that. If you could see that happen on the scan tool, but you know that the sensor(s) sweep, fine, then that would be evidence to start tugging on the harness, connectors, etc.

 

Enough.