I had just exited onto the off-ramp coming home after a 1.5 hour trip from nearby Monroe. As I came to a stop, the car lurched and died as if I had forgotten to depress the clutch. The big problem is that I'm running a 700R-4 :eek: :D

I've been driving the last few miles off of my whining transmission waiting for it to go south before dropping big dough on a new one. I made it all the way home, and as soon as I came to a stop it sounded like a chunk or two of good sized metal were flailing against my tranny pan just as I killed the ignition. Looks like tomorrow I'll be (hopefully) making that short trip across town to The Transmission Center to finally have that MegaRaptor 700R4 installed.

So would it be completely unwise to try to drive the car to the tranny shop? Any chance they won't take my current tranny for the core charge if I mangle the guts trying to drive it to the shop? :skep:

 

Check this out. I sent this yesterday to an outfit called danstrans in Troy, NY

Dan, Last spring I bought a Mini-Raptor 700R4 for my 85 Vette (Dynoed 265 hp 335# tq) from Performance Automotive & Transmission Center of Bossier, LA. http://www.transmissioncenter.net Within two weeks of installation I lost 3rd & 4th gears. They told me to ship it back to them (my cost $130.00) and they would fix it. At that time I told them to upgrade it to a full Raptor and I would pay for it.
About a month after I put it back in, 3rd gear started slipping real bad if I didn't let it shift under slight or no throttle. TV adjustment was exactly where it should be during both sets of failures. It also always seemed to give a slight shudder as it first shifted into 3rd, even the first time it was installed. I nursed it through the summer with the fluid getting more and more burnt. I had a fluid flush in August just to try and keep it going until winter when I intended to pull it and take a look. This month using the ATSM manual for the 700R4, a seal kit, borrowed special tools & a 3rd clutch pack from them I disassembled it and replaced the 3rd clutch pack which was in pretty poor shape with chunks of friction materials missing from several of the plates. I also found the valve body separator plate was badly peened by the check ***** at the 3/4 clutch locations. The 3rd accumulator piston had scored the bore pretty badly about midway down the bore. The scoring was pretty much removed by carefully using a brake cylinder hone in the bore.

Big problem is that the V/B separator plate is stamped ZA, and I can't find any references to it. This is a 1987 700R4 without an aux. valve body. PATC claims that they can't find any references on the ZA plate. On a transmission they sold me!

My question to you is: Since your shop is within driving distance from my home, you are in the performance transmission business, have a good reputation, and the tranny is out, would you be willing to check it out and repair as necessary? I have all winter since the Vette is on blocks until Spring.

 

you know... if I was running an auto Vette, I would either convert to a manual or install a TH400 with a Gear Vendors Overdrive...

just my opinion...

 

Thought about it. Might be cheaper to sell and buy one one with a std. :steering:

 

I would drive it, if you don't mind risking the chance of needing a tow truck. However, I would not drive it on the interstate.

 

thats another option... get that one patched up and trade up to a 6spd.

 

Man, I hate to hear that kind of testimonial NHVette :eek: I sure hope my situation turns out a little better. This Mega Raptor is the same tranny Lingenfelter was using on his 700+hp Supra(?) just recently, so I guess if there is a 700R4 out there that has a fighting chance - this has to be it. I can't find anything better anywhere, and I've been seraching the web for months.

I figure if I can make this one last for at least a year or two, then at that point I can find the time to do a proper 4L80E install with all the required mods, hacking and fabrication that go along with it. I just don't have the time right now to experement since the Vette is my only source of transportation at the moment.

Having the shop just a couple of miles from my house gives me ALOT of reassurance. They are doing the install and everything, so they have no excuse for problems that might arise. I have a bullhorn, and I'll park my butt across the street in protest if they give me the cold shoulder or fixing any innate problems with the tranny! :cuss :D

I'm going to go down and get well acquainted with the guy doing my install so I have a name and a face that I can vent my frustrations toward should things go sour. Until then I'll give them the benefit of a doubt.


P.S. - So, what IS required exactly to swap in a 6-speed tranny? :confused:

 

Lots of $$$$$$$$$$$$ :D

My trans recently died also (lost 3/4 clutch pack). I was going to get a mini-raptor but since I'm in CA if I had problems it would cost me to much time and money to ship it back to them. So I had it rebuilt at a local shop that came highly recommended, now it's coming back out because the pumps not pumping :crazy: oh well, I guess we learn as we go...

If I were you I would use PATC since you are so close, and like you said if you have a problem you can go sit on their doorstep. :p:

Good luck. :cheers:

 

Rome, When you go down to PATC, ask to talk to a guy named Don. I talked to him this morning (nicely I might add), the guy from New Hampshire, and all he could say about me getting a worn out tranny case from them is: "I'm sorry" Jeff Kopp located the discontinued valve body plate for me today. He's a treasure to this Forum :chevy


[Modified by NHVett, 12:48 PM 12/27/2002]


[Modified by NHVett, 12:48 PM 12/27/2002]

 

you need the transmission, bell housing, C-beam and driveshaft.

Also, pedals, clutch, flywheel and clutch slave/master cylinder.

the tunnel needs to be modified to accept the ZF6. you also need the console cover. its different.

it is doable, and buying used will save you a bundle. But expect the best part of $3000.00USC to get it done right.

Oh, almost forgot, you will want to upgrade the differencial, also. The auto uses the Dana 36, the manual, the Dana 44. The D36 won't last long under some clutch dumps...


[Modified by bogus, 1:21 PM 12/27/2002]

 

It's soo sad to hear that the stock trannies last for 10+ years even under severe use, and then you get a 'performance' rebuild and there are nothign but problems with them.. It is rare to hear a rebuilt tranny that actually works flawlessly.. Makes you think..... :cuss

I will be going down the tranny swap path soon, I can feel it (nothing wrong yet though), and am totally terrified of what I will have to go through.. :(

 

Bogus has the right idea. I did the TH400 manual valve body with Gear Vendors overdrive. It is awsum! Best decision I ever made for my car. The only way to fly. Or maybe a shade under a ZF. But, probably more durable and much cheaper to freshen up now if it needs anything. Don't overlook this setup. This is what Callaway did on the twin turbos that were ordered with an auto.

 

I recently rebuilt my 700R4 in my 4x4 truck which is the same trans (used for snow plowing). The weak link on the 700R4 is O.D. or 4th gear. The clutch pack is very small and set up loose from the factory. Also using a heavy duty sprag clutch in the input output housing is a good idea. There have been several updates since the 700R4 came out and any good rebuilder will do all the updates and change all the parts. I suggest setting up the clutch packs on the tighter side at around .090 rather than .115. The throttle valve/cable return spring should be replaced also to make sure the trans upshifts properly when you are getting out of the gas. Thank god my 94 is electronic shift! (same trans just electronic shift and all the updates). The first gear clutch pack in the 700R4 is HUGE and can handle heavy abuse so I am not too worried about hammering mine. One thing I wanted to say is that all the seals in my trans were dry rotted and gummy (1991 truck). Even if you never drive a car, the trans can go bad in time due to seals going bad. I honestly think that 10 years is about the time when it becomes risky with the seals in a trans no matter what. It is sad to me to see some people (not necessarily in this thread) blame the trans as being weak or crapy just because it had ONLY 14000 miles on it yet it is out of a 13 year old car. BY ALL MEANS, A STICK IS STRONGER. But if you don't plan on putting down over 375rwhp, an automatic is fine.

 

I visited the Transmission Center's shops yeasterday and it's a very clean operation :) There is a speed shop, performance tranny center, and a muffler shop all situated around a common parking lot. New facilities all around and very impressive. I stepped into the room where all of their trannies are built and I could just about eat off the floor in there. I was very impressed.

I spoke in length with Jason who will be building my transmission. Very cool guy with a bawls-out red '68 Camaro. They described how they began years ago "bulletproofing" the weak areas of the 700R4. Each time they beefed up one part, it would expose the next weak link in the transmission. I was told that they repeated that process until they had identified and reengineered every major area of the 700R4 tranny. Their list of modifications was quite impressive. THe result is the Mega Raptor 700R4 which is what I'll be testing next week.

They yanked my old Art Carr tranny and it was pathetic. It had internal pieces that had been missing since the Art Carr group went back together with it. Two or three major problems from the time it had left the Art Carr shop. In speaking with the chief operator at PATC, I found out that at one point Art Carr was actually run out of his own business, and a group of managers obtained the legal right to continue using his name! True Art Carr manufactured transmissions are now marketed under the name The Real Art Carr Inc. He reassured me that, judging from the quality of the 700R4 that came out of my car, it had to have been one of the knock off's.

The car should be completed by Monday or Tursday. I'm moving down to a 2600rpm torque converter from a 3500. :eek: Take it from me, even for a modified 350, 3500rpm converter is bordering on rediculous for daily street driving. The owner of the shop had owned a 1984 and a '85 Vette in the past, and the stock Corvette converter for both cars was a 2300 stall. There's a chance that mine might have had a 1800 stall from the factory, and I definately wanted to step up from that. 2600 seemed like a happy medium, and a large number of the folks on these forums have gone with the 2600 converter. Can't wait to see how it feels vs. the 3500 :yesnod:

Stay tuned for my initial report during the middle of next week :thumbs:

 

Rome, Thanks for the description of the PATC facility. Sounds pretty good. Looks like I just got slammed by "Murphy's Law" again. If my recent work goes sour, I will probably ship the tranny back to them again. PITA to do since the freight is $150 each way, and I have to box it up and haul it 60 miles to the closest freight terminal. When I sent it back the first time it cost me close to $400 just to get it there and back.

Reminder: Must shop closer to home. It's pretty living up here in New Hampster, but it really is the "sticks".