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Its great in the fact you simply replace your stock computer. Doesnt require a rewire like all the others I have seen.
It has alot of nice features to it as well.
Its still in the running for my car, but I am being steered away from it by a friend of my brothers who owns a tuning business. He said it wont work best for my overall objective (Twin Turbo). But for N/A like I am now he said it would work great.
So more directly... its a great upgrade to get. Just make sure you DYNO TUNE IT, and dont go off seat of pants, spend the $ for 1-2 hours of tuning and get the extra power and safty out of it.
I have it on my 420 sbc -85 and it works fine...
Just be sure that you got the ecu pin order right and it is a simple bolt on.
I ordered mine with the pin order described in Haynes manual and it was totally wrong.
oh...and it uses MAP instead of MAF but that swap was really easy.
Ok. Could you tell me more how it works?
I see that the E6GM has 2 connectors and my stock ECU has got 3?
And will the stock computer still handel som functions on the like ABS, A/C, fans etc?
And the E6GM dont support knock censor, will that be a probleme?
And will the E6GM work with my stock MAP censor?
Hmm... my -85 only had two connectors so maybe you need to use somekind of adapter. e-mail haltech.com about it..
Or just buy 2-piece connector and connect the needed pins to it.
The Haltech controls A/C and fans but not ABS or knock sensor...
but you can use your stock ecu piggyback with haltech
ie. engine controls to haltech and others to the stock ecu.
The missing knock sensor is not a problem if you tune the engine properly.
and yes, the stock MAP should be fine.
I ran the E6GM for two seasons in my 90. Sold the Haltech, and went back to the stocker, and got into chip burning. The stock computer is better for a street-driven car, IMO. Unless your gonna turbo, super, or be a full-time race car. then maybe the E6GM is better.
I had to buy the harness and splice in all the wires. Also had to run both computers "piggy-back" to retain a working dash, speedo, etc. The main problems I saw was:
1) no knock sensor capability
2) idle problems. The GM ECU stall saver is far, far better. Poor AC on/off transitions.
3) Difficulty with air temp compensation (forget about tuning on different temperature days).
4) No "learning" capability. I considered this a "good thing" before I purchased the Haltech, but now I've changed my mind. Intelligence is good.
5) I could never get the instrument cluster fuel economy (mpg) computer to work w/ the Haltech.
etc.
But the main reason I sold it was that it made a computer junky out of me. I could go nowhere without the laptop on the passenger seat. The tune was never "perfect" enough for me. It became a real PITA, to the point where I longed for a car that didn't have a laptop for a co-pilot.
IMO, burning my own chips with my stock 727 ECU was the way to go for my setup (383 MR).
Realize that at was just a few years ago (and maybe it's still true) that General Motors produced more micro-computers than anyone in the world. That's amazing! More than IBM, Dell, Apple, etc. And they have a veritable ARMY of engineers and almost bottomless pockets for equipment, tuning, and R&D. Maybe THAT has something to do with why their ECU works so well.
email me off-list if you need any more info.
:cheers:
It allows on-the-fly programming of your stock ECU (while engine is running). It's just for tuning, you'll still need all the stuff to burn a chip once you're satisfied with the tune.
You plug one end of the romulator into the MEMCAL socket on your ECU. The other end goes to your PC's serial port.
1) Change tuning parameters. I use TunerCAT software.
2) Save your tuning parameters to a file ("bin").
3) Use romulator software to load the file you created into your ECU.
TunerCAT (and some others, I think) will soon release a romulator version of their software, so the download will then become seamless (eliminating separate romulator software).
Now that the romulator has been perfected, the biggest reason (IMO) to go with a DFI of a Haltech (if you already have a decent factory ECU) has been eliminated. TADA!
ok. So when u use the romulator you cant use a diag prog? So you cant se if your changes is working good or bad? YOu have to burn a chip first then you can use the diag prog? Or?
ok. So when u use the romulator you cant use a diag prog?
Sure you can. The connection from your laptop goes directly do where the chip used to be in the ECM. That leaves the ALDL port open on your car. You could connect that to a 2nd serial port on your computer or whatever port your diag. software uses.