race head gasket recommendation
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Instructor
Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Boyds MD
race head gasket recommendation
On my C4 road race car , I had some detonation issues, and chose to finish a race weekend anyway, and damaged my head gasket. When it detonates now, I get a puff out one side of the head gasket.
.Obviously the first step is to fix the detonation issue, which I believe is now due to failing Fuel injectors, running to lean on some cylinders.
So Im asking on recommendations on head gasket type to use. I realize MLS type are the strongest and preferred with a new engine build, but they also require much smoother and level surfaces than a traditional composite gasket. Not always easy to achieve the required RA and flatness, without machining, and I plan to replace the gasket while engine is in the car. I also realize Chevy Performance has a higher grade composite gasket for upgraded performance engines. .
My L98 is about 320 HP, 385 Torque, and 12:1 compression ratio, and obviously mostly driven at redline (5500RPM).
What would be the best head gasket to use, to hold up to race abuse? That will be easy and forgiving enough to install by a DIY mechanic?
And are there any recommendations to properly prepare the surfaces, before assembling?
.Obviously the first step is to fix the detonation issue, which I believe is now due to failing Fuel injectors, running to lean on some cylinders.
So Im asking on recommendations on head gasket type to use. I realize MLS type are the strongest and preferred with a new engine build, but they also require much smoother and level surfaces than a traditional composite gasket. Not always easy to achieve the required RA and flatness, without machining, and I plan to replace the gasket while engine is in the car. I also realize Chevy Performance has a higher grade composite gasket for upgraded performance engines. .
My L98 is about 320 HP, 385 Torque, and 12:1 compression ratio, and obviously mostly driven at redline (5500RPM).
What would be the best head gasket to use, to hold up to race abuse? That will be easy and forgiving enough to install by a DIY mechanic?
And are there any recommendations to properly prepare the surfaces, before assembling?
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Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Glenbeulah Wi
Honestly I would run a MLS head gasket and not worry about it, get a coated one and it will not leak unless you have obvious issue with a badly warped head or block. You need to verify what your quench distance is and then set it to be around .040 by picking the correct gasket thickness. I do not know what combination of parts you have is but a stock L98 usually has the pistons .025 in the hole so you may only need a .015 thick gasket. I have used the fel-pro 1094 .015 thickness coated steel shim gasket in l98 builds with excellent results, if it provides the correct quench thickness.
.040 quench is your goal for both power and detonation resistance.
.040 quench is your goal for both power and detonation resistance.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 153
Likes: 17
From: Boyds MD
Thanks for that info, it was helpful.
Im assuming there isn't anything major wrong with surfaces (such as warping), since I know how/why I damaged the gasket. But I surely will measure once the heads are off, before selecting a path forward. Im planning on removing the heads this weekend.
One problem with buying a race car that was built by someone else 25 years ago (1997), that changed hands a few times, is its easy to loose track of whats actually inside the engine. Engine was rebuilt in 2007. The documentation and logs that came with it were pretty good, but I dont know exact piston specs or current gasket thickness. For the original class, the car had to use production block, head, stroke, and intake. But engine internals were open. I know it has an Eagle crank, and different pistons, and what ever else was necessary to get the increased compression ratio.
Im assuming there isn't anything major wrong with surfaces (such as warping), since I know how/why I damaged the gasket. But I surely will measure once the heads are off, before selecting a path forward. Im planning on removing the heads this weekend.
One problem with buying a race car that was built by someone else 25 years ago (1997), that changed hands a few times, is its easy to loose track of whats actually inside the engine. Engine was rebuilt in 2007. The documentation and logs that came with it were pretty good, but I dont know exact piston specs or current gasket thickness. For the original class, the car had to use production block, head, stroke, and intake. But engine internals were open. I know it has an Eagle crank, and different pistons, and what ever else was necessary to get the increased compression ratio.
