90 clutch master/slave assembly
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 45
Likes: 2
From: Arlington, TX
90 clutch master/slave assembly
I have a 90 and need to replace both master and slave. do they still make or sell a whole assembly, or am i going to have to buy it in pieces with lines? Part numbers would help. the only thing i can find is 19 and 20 yr old threads in here.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 1,384
Likes: 339
From: Simi Valley CA
Mine went out on my 92 right after I bought it in October 2021. I bought the one from Autozone with a lifetime warranty. I bought both the slave and the master. I only replaced the master and planned on getting to the slave. After I put the master on I pumped the clutch pedal several times and it got stiff. I have been driving it since with no issues. This was one of the easiest systems to bleed I have ever seen. My clutch disengages right at the first third of travel. I let the pedal out 2/3rds of the way before the the clutch engages from a stop so I know it is not too weak.
I also removed the seat to access it. It is so easy to remove the seat and gives you a great chance to vacuum under there. I also recovered a buck or two in change and some like new in the wrapper gum.
I also removed the seat to access it. It is so easy to remove the seat and gives you a great chance to vacuum under there. I also recovered a buck or two in change and some like new in the wrapper gum.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 396
From: Northwest Ohio
Only three pieces. Master, slave and if you want the clutch line. You would want the braided line which is the most expensive part… the master/slave cylinders are cheap. I went with Luk but I don’t think it matters much. Check rock auto for those, I think I got the line from zip corvette. It’s really easy to find the right parts via those sites.
Bench bleed the slave…then use the ranger method and it will bleed it no issue….
It’s an easy job just make sure to get the slave rod in the cup of the clutch fork when installing (yes I screwed that up somehow fussing with it).
Bench bleed the slave…then use the ranger method and it will bleed it no issue….
It’s an easy job just make sure to get the slave rod in the cup of the clutch fork when installing (yes I screwed that up somehow fussing with it).
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 45
Likes: 2
From: Arlington, TX
Appreciate the feedback. I am very familiar with the hydraulic clutches in the lsx cars...been doing them since 97. Only had a few experiences with the older hydraulic with the push/pull slave. The problem isn't my clutch so much as i am losing fluid in the master reservoir about every 1-2 weeks. the lower bell housing is wet, so i think its the slave thats bad, but might as well replace both. i will be doing a clutch later this year (if i can help it) because the car has some miles on it and i don't know if its ever been replaced. feels like it may have, but not sure. this car will be my sons first and the last thing i want is for him to get stranded with no clutch. I am about to start the body work over the next couple of months as i get time and weather permits, so i'm just trying to get to the bottom of the missing fluid.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 396
From: Northwest Ohio
It's straightforward, replace all three pieces involved (slave, master, line[if original]). On these cars always do both cylinders together. It is common for the master cylinder to leak into the driver footwell (you would have wetness below where the pushrod goes through the firewall/damp carpet padding below), but it sounds like you may have found the primary leak at the slave...
As to the clutch, if it is working properly (not slipping and not chattering or shuddering badly) I'd leave it alone... Is there a reason you believe the clutch needs work (besides the hydraulics)?
As to the clutch, if it is working properly (not slipping and not chattering or shuddering badly) I'd leave it alone... Is there a reason you believe the clutch needs work (besides the hydraulics)?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 45
Likes: 2
From: Arlington, TX
It's straightforward, replace all three pieces involved (slave, master, line[if original]). On these cars always do both cylinders together. It is common for the master cylinder to leak into the driver footwell (you would have wetness below where the pushrod goes through the firewall/damp carpet padding below), but it sounds like you may have found the primary leak at the slave...
As to the clutch, if it is working properly (not slipping and not chattering or shuddering badly) I'd leave it alone... Is there a reason you believe the clutch needs work (besides the hydraulics)?
As to the clutch, if it is working properly (not slipping and not chattering or shuddering badly) I'd leave it alone... Is there a reason you believe the clutch needs work (besides the hydraulics)?
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 396
From: Northwest Ohio
I would not expect contamination from the hydraulic fluid...that should just run out of the bottom of the bellhousing without touching anything (unless it is squirting!). Further, leaking hydraulics should make it harder to shift and not affect clamping.
More likely worn out clutch (PP/disk) or oil/grease contamination (RMS or TO bearing that has thrown it's grease). Are you sure that the wetness is hydraulic fluid and not oil? If it's oil on the bellhousing inspection cover/part of the bellhousing closest to the front of the car, then it's very likely the RMS. You can always pull the inspection cover and take a look, also can use a scope through the slave hole in the bellhousing once you pull that to look around.
The hydraulics are easy enough, and you'll be doing them anyway if the clutch is blasted, so not a waste. Again, I'd still check the driver footwell as that is where my master was leaking.
How many miles?
More likely worn out clutch (PP/disk) or oil/grease contamination (RMS or TO bearing that has thrown it's grease). Are you sure that the wetness is hydraulic fluid and not oil? If it's oil on the bellhousing inspection cover/part of the bellhousing closest to the front of the car, then it's very likely the RMS. You can always pull the inspection cover and take a look, also can use a scope through the slave hole in the bellhousing once you pull that to look around.
The hydraulics are easy enough, and you'll be doing them anyway if the clutch is blasted, so not a waste. Again, I'd still check the driver footwell as that is where my master was leaking.
How many miles?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 45
Likes: 2
From: Arlington, TX
I would not expect contamination from the hydraulic fluid...that should just run out of the bottom of the bellhousing without touching anything (unless it is squirting!). Further, leaking hydraulics should make it harder to shift and not affect clamping.
More likely worn out clutch (PP/disk) or oil/grease contamination (RMS or TO bearing that has thrown it's grease). Are you sure that the wetness is hydraulic fluid and not oil? If it's oil on the bellhousing inspection cover/part of the bellhousing closest to the front of the car, then it's very likely the RMS. You can always pull the inspection cover and take a look, also can use a scope through the slave hole in the bellhousing once you pull that to look around.
The hydraulics are easy enough, and you'll be doing them anyway if the clutch is blasted, so not a waste. Again, I'd still check the driver footwell as that is where my master was leaking.
How many miles?
More likely worn out clutch (PP/disk) or oil/grease contamination (RMS or TO bearing that has thrown it's grease). Are you sure that the wetness is hydraulic fluid and not oil? If it's oil on the bellhousing inspection cover/part of the bellhousing closest to the front of the car, then it's very likely the RMS. You can always pull the inspection cover and take a look, also can use a scope through the slave hole in the bellhousing once you pull that to look around.
The hydraulics are easy enough, and you'll be doing them anyway if the clutch is blasted, so not a waste. Again, I'd still check the driver footwell as that is where my master was leaking.
How many miles?
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 45
Likes: 2
From: Arlington, TX
The odometer reading is stored in the CCM, not in the cluster. When you change the cluster, the odometer reading remains the same on the new cluster. When you change the CCM, the odometer reading will be what is stored in the CCM from the car it was previously installed in.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 1,384
Likes: 339
From: Simi Valley CA
The odometer reading is stored in the CCM, not in the cluster. When you change the cluster, the odometer reading remains the same on the new cluster. When you change the CCM, the odometer reading will be what is stored in the CCM from the car it was previously installed in.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 45
Likes: 2
From: Arlington, TX
Are you sure on this? Not trying to start an online argument, but I was surprised on my 01 Tahoe I found out it is stored in the cluster. I changed the cluster because it had some bad gauges. It had 177k miles on it. When I put in a cluster from the wrecking yard it showed 140k.