Yes ! and what difference if you start at the bleeder closest to the master cylinder than the farthest? Why the block of wood under the pedal because you never place your brake pedal to the floor and you never when bleeding want to push dirt and corroded material across the seals.

 

I do the same thing, 2" x 6" on trucks! It's good practice, it prevents you from over-extending the MC internals! It's interesting, I got lucky for years, doing the old "to the floor" method and then had my wife help with our Yukon, she ran the brake pedal and me the bleeders....after 2 days of bleeding, activating the ABS bleeding procedure with the scan tool many times and about 2 gallons of brake fluid I was like WTF....started doing some online reading, the MC worked perfectly before replacing all 4 calipers, rotors and pads. Ended up running across a write-up about the 2" x 4" trick....Bought a new MC, bench bled it, installed it, put a 2" x 6" under the pedal. One round of bleeding with ABS pump growling and the brakes were perfect!!!! Turns out my wife was so worried about doing it right and exactly the way I told her to do it, that she was basically "standing" on the pedal every time she pushed on it! Obviously this wiped out the seals very quickly and her inexperience with "the feel" of pedal pressure when doing this procedure didn't help! Ultimately it was my fault for not considering this possibility, she was doing exactly what I instructed her to do! Needless to say, there's been a board under the brake pedal while bleeding brakes on every vehicle ever since, never had this problem again👍

 

Never heard of that before. I'll try that next time!

 

Same here, I typically try to open and close the bleeder quickly so that the pedal does not reach the floor.

 

Which is a good reason to upgrade your c4 to dot 4 brake fluid, and flush/bleed the system annually weather you think it needs it or not. The. There is nothing in the system to mess up seals. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, and on a performance automobile it's subjected to much more extreme temperature swings. Dot4 helps, annual bleeding will keep seals and lines from breaking down as fast as they normally would.

 

My .02, this is usually more of an issue with older vehicles with a cast iron master cylinders and neglected brake fluid. The aluminum master cylinder on the Vette doesn't see the corrosion issues the iron one's do. And most Vette owners are more diligent about replacing brake fluid too, less crap and moisture.
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