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Hey all, dumb-question-if-not-asked, had Her in the air working on the brakes (one of the caliper pins rusted out) and was the rear to make sure brakes were spinning free, etc.
Came to my mind to check the diff too. It's a Dana 36 with automatic if it matters. Putting in neutral, no problem spinning the wheels.
Now the question: I can't remember from before when I changed the diff fluid years back, when in park should I be able to counter-rotate the diff by hand? As in, grab a tire and spin, the other side should rotate the other way. Can't say I've had any indication before how stiff the diff is supposed to be, and the FSM only mentions noise as problem indicators. My concern is if the diff is locked or getting close.
Thanks!
Always cracks me up when I see pics of the diff internals, my 1/8 scale R/C car uses the exact setup! I've rebuilt those many many times, so tempted to try the big boy.
I found a tidbit on youtube, someone checked how much torque was required to counter-rotate a limited slip. The diff he tried was fairly small with spring for the clutch plates, took about 40ftlbs. Guess the correct term is "break strength".
Testing mine, without his little dohickey, had to be up around 90 ftbl, no break at all. Not a good feeling. I've noted She tends to spin more in hard turn-takeoffs or plain takeoff these days, lot more than in the past. Just not sure what is causing that. Bad tires? Super Awesome Rebuilt Engine? Diff too tight or worse, locked? *sigh*
Time get serious I suppose.
It's more that 90 ft-lbs, more importantly I haven't been able to break it at all. Includes leaning on the tire with 150lbs. Turning tires while in neutral or drive, rotate freely. Both tires in same direction, of course.
On the flip side, I'm not noticing any noise (which doesn't say much as my ears are damaged a little) nor any squeals while turning.
Guess this winter, got me a project. Drive until then.
Guess what I'm looking for is the "torque bias ratio" (TBR) of the Dana 36. I'm guessing this changes with actual gear ratio.
Google seems to be an *sshole about phrase searches these days, can't find squat on the web.
Is TBR typically listed in differential specifications?
You've got a nice tight posi and unless the tires squeal going around corners I'd leave it alone.
From-stop cornering (ie, hard left from stop sign) is part of why I'm chasing this. She tends to slide if I get on it a bit (not WOT). Concern is She didn't used to do that, but then I did rebuild the engine (stock), so not sure if it's just better torque now or the diff is locked. I haven't tried just driving in circles, I'll chase that soon. I don't think its making any noise, but my ears don't hear very well these days and my left ear is terrible.
Posi are supposed to have an intended TBR in the design, including fluid, I found someone mention 40 ftlbs, but that was on a pickup, smaller diff.
The Diff isn't locked. If it were locked, you'd notice it, big time. Ever do a full lock u-turn on asphalt in a 4x4 truck....while it's IN 4wd? If you have, that's similar to what you'd experience doing any sharp turns in your Corvette; lots of binding, tire scrub and squeal, like the car is fighting itself.
The Diff isn't locked. If it were locked, you'd notice it, big time. Ever do a full lock u-turn on asphalt in a 4x4 truck....while it's IN 4wd? If you have, that's similar to what you'd experience doing any sharp turns in your Corvette; lots of binding, tire scrub and squeal, like the car is fighting itself.
*sigh* Okay Tom, restatement: "in process of becoming locked". It ain't black/white, there's plenty of gray in there.
Can you put a tq wrench on the axle nut and see what the break away tq is? I know that you tested it to 90, what if you set the tq wrench to 150 and try it?
Torque Bias Ratio applies only to diffs with helical gearing. Examples are the Eaton/Detroit TrueTrac or the Zexel Torsen. Those weren't installed by the factory in C4 Corvettes. If you had one of those diffs (someone "upgraded" to that), they operate as open diffs when the wheels are off the ground, and you should be able to counter-rotate the wheels with it in park and both wheels off the ground.
Honestly, I'm not sure what type of diff was installed in the Dana 36 for the C4 Corvettes, so I'm not sure the correct testing procedure. Breakaway torque is the specification for the Auburn diffs used in the 3rd Gen (and early 4th Gen) Camaros. That's tested with the transmission in neutral, one wheel on the ground, the other wheel jacked up in the air, and use a torque wrench to turn the wheel.
For Salisbury types (Eaton Posi and some of the earlier "Positraction" diffs), the clutches are engaged by torque applied at the ring gear, With no torque applied at the pinion, some of those diffs can be basically open, or and with other designs, the clutches can be preloaded in some way and there's also a breakway torque specified.
The C4 uses a multi disk, spring applied clutch. AKA, Dana Trac-Loc. Testing is done at the axle nut using a tq measuring device (a tork rench).
You guys might want to have a look at THIS THREAD
But specifically related to the OP's concern is this quote from post 1:
Originally Posted by Rklessdriver
You can check that a number of ways but I do it with a 36mm socket and a beam type TQ wrench on the outer stub axle nut. Jack one wheel off the ground put the car in neutral and start pulling on the TQ wrench until the Posi clutches break away…. That’s your initial reading or “break away”…. a new Spicer Trac Lok unit will take 75-85ft lbs to break loose and a hand built, properly built unit can take over 150ft lbs. For a lot of racing use with most cars I’d suggest a rebuild when it gets under 65-70ft lbs
My bet is that the OP has a tight/strong posi unit and just hasn't found it's break away point, yet.
Can you put a tq wrench on the axle nut and see what the break away tq is? I know that you tested it to 90, what if you set the tq wrench to 150 and try it?
Good suggestion, I'll try this. I made the bad assumption that the axle nut torque was too low for this test.