Well still have a little xmas $$ left. Thinking of 1.6rr's as my next mod. Just a couple of questions.

1. Do they really add 20hp?
2. 1.6 on both intake & exhaust or 1.6 & 1.5?? (Read That Somewhere)
3. Self aligning?
4. What are the best ones for the money. (alum or Steel) & (Name Brand)
5. Will i need to reprogram or modify anything else once these are in?

94 auto
K&N w/opened box
TB bypass
Hypertech PPIII & 180 Thermostat
Muff elim on the way




[Modified by wz2wj1, 5:10 PM 1/3/2003]

 

I got a set of 1.6 ProMagnums for my L98. I am very happy with them.

Most people either Get the Comp Cam ProMagnum or Crane Gold. The Cranes Are alittle bit more. They are both quality pieces (from what I heard about the Golds)

TPIS claimed going with 1.6 on both Intake and exhaust changes the idle a little bit but adds 4 more Hp. I have to disagree with the idles concerns because mine idles perfect. The motor seems to revv much smoother and pulls little stronger (maybe in my head, but i think it does)

You dont have to change anything in the way of tuning, Just dissconnect the bttery and let the computer relearn and it will be fine

I also upgraded to 7/16" studs (stornger and less flexing upder load) I dont really think it makes any difference, because Im not putting out that muchpower, but I plan on someday, so it was only like $20 more for the studs, I figured why not

 

I agree with Stealdads67 but here is my input anyway as I choose Cranes.

>1. Do they really add 20hp?
Don't know but my friend says my car is faster than his so maybe there is something.

>2. 1.6 on both intake & exhaust or 1.6 & 1.5?? (Read That Somewhere)
I have no idle problems with all 1.6 and the car works perfectly so I see no reason to mix.

>3. Self aligning?
Yes, you do need them as your cars originals are self aligning. Much easier to use the same type than to convert to non self aligning type (you would need hardened pushrods and guideplates if you convert). Somebody has commented that the old type has less parasitic power lose but I believe we are talking less than 1/2 hp at max.

>4. What are the best ones for the money. (alum or Steel) & (Name Brand)
I prefer Crane Gold Aluminium Racing RR's. Bought them from Summit.

>5. Will i need to reprogram or modify anything else once these are in?
No programming needed but I recommend you buy a set of new valve springs to go with your new rockers and while you are at there maybe new valve seals too?

Regards,

Toni

 

I have a couple of questions similiar, but more on procedure, I can do just about everything but always avoided going into the engine unless I had someone over my shoulder to make sure things go in the way they are supposed to.
1. When replacing the push rods they just slide out and slide new ones in right?
2. What is the stock diameter of a STOCK lt1 push rod?
3. If opening diameter makes it stronger how does it still fit into the push rod chamber to hit the cam loob?
4. Does the top of the push rod need anything for the journal at the top where it contacts the roller rocker or is that what self aligning is all about?
5. Do I have to tighten them to SPECIFIC torque or is wrench tight ok?
6 What are the EXACT part numbers and the most cost effective place to buy them? (I hear 1.6's on stock internals will really help and clear valve cover so I'd go for them)

Thanks in advance for any input

Chris

 

> 1. When replacing the push rods they just slide out and slide new ones in right?

Yes. Why are you replacing them?

To your guestions 2 and 3: I believe 350 Chevy push rods are all the same thickness (or at least the ones you are supposed to use), the difference is in the material and if they are hardened or not.

4. Does the top of the push rod need anything for the journal at the top where it contacts the roller rocker or is that what self aligning is all about?

Don't quite understand the question but I think the self aligning part is the roll that contacts the valve. The valve keeps the rocker in alignment. I could be wrong here though - didn't give it any thought when I installed them.

>5. Do I have to tighten them to SPECIFIC torque or is wrench tight ok?

The kit comes with RR specific instructions. If I remember it correctly with Cranes it was 3/4-1 turn after contact.

>6 What are the EXACT part numbers and the most cost effective place to buy them? (I hear 1.6's on stock internals will really help and clear valve cover so I'd go for them)

I haven't heard of anybody who could install 1.6 RR's without grinding the stock valve covers.

This is what I used and I believe they are the correct ones for '94 too: Crane part number at Summit: CRN-10758-16

Regards,

Toni


[Modified by ToniH, 4:32 PM 1/4/2003]

 

There is no way you are gonna feel a difference unless its at 7000 rpm. Save your money.

 

I don't want to do any grinding on the valve covers so would 1.5's be a better solution? Changing push rods I thought may or may not give a better performance gain by having less mass or better coefficient of friction throught the chamber but I could be wrong so that's why the pushrod question.....yes/no? Also I have a 93 not a 94, I would guess they would be the same? Will have to do some more research it seems on my end....:)

 

I'm pretty sure even with the 1.5's you still have to alter the valve covers.

 

Have you done yours? Can anyone else verify this? I've heard both sides of the coin, I'm sure you may be correct though.......if so..........I'm not to willing to start grinding off valve cover plastic..... :nonod:

 

From what I've seen the 1.5 and 1.6 rockers are physically very close if not identical in size, and there is no way my 1.6's would have fit without altering the valve covers. All you have to do to get them to fit is cut off the oil drip tabs, which is no big deal.

 

hmm......never been under an lt1 valve cover, any links on the page for before and after views for me to increase confidence for me to do it?

Chris

 

I have seen pictures on the forum of the before and after drip tab removeal. Post a question asking for pictures, I'm sure someone will help you out. Or just go pull the right side valve cover off and see what you are dealing with, it will only take a couple of minutes.


[Modified by STL94LT1, 7:20 PM 1/4/2003]

 

thanks..

Chris

 

I just priced the pro mag 1.6 self aligning at summit & Auto zone AZ was about $25 cheaper and could get them overnight. Summit was out of stock.

george

 

You don't have to event grind them really. Just cut 'em off. I don't know what the 93 valve covers are made of. You may just be able to pinch them off with some snippers or twist them off with pliers. In any event, don't be put off by it. You will get some HP with a full set of 1.6's on a stock motor.

 

For your 93 you may need to get a chip programed for this change. Not sure, maybe some one can varify this.. :skep: