When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
There is very likely not enough clearance to use that package with the 1350 joints on the rear. I wouldn't rush to buy unless someone verifies that they will clear/work on the rear of a C4.
I talked with Eric at vansteel, he said those caps are designed to work on a C4 with dana 44 rear end.
That's how you'll break IRS parts...that twin disk.
I don't think the caps are the problem....I think it's the u-joint cross....and how hard you're "hitting" it, with that clutch.
oh yes, I'm sure the clutch contributes to breakage for sure.
so far I'm getting a quote for a fully built, gladiator dana 44 from EM racing with a 1350 driveshaft yoke...but haven't made up my mind just yet.
new tires are ordered and a new Z51 spec hypercoil monoleaf spring will be shipping to me on Tuesday. The rest is still up in the air as investigate my options.
hoping to get this thing back together sooner than later.
Ok guys, I've made some choices and ordered some parts.
I've got 4 new toyo proxe R888 in 315 30R18 size which arrive Monday.
I've ordered a Z51 spec hyper coil mono-leaf spring from Vansteel and I also ordered a set of their billet u-joint retainer caps (they say they clear).
EM racing 'gladiator dana 44' which I've had upgraded it with Eton truetrac, steel retainers, a drain plug and a Spicer 1350 front yoke oh and got one of their dana 44 batwing covers too.
also ordered the EM racing cryo treated outer axle stubs.
I'm still deciding on the halfshafts (steel or aluminum??)
hoping in a few week I can get the car back together!
Ok guys, I've made some choices and ordered some parts.
I've got 4 new toyo proxe R888 in 315 30R18 size which arrive Monday.
I've ordered a Z51 spec hyper coil mono-leaf spring from Vansteel and I also ordered a set of their billet u-joint retainer caps (they say they clear).
EM racing 'gladiator dana 44' which I've had upgraded it with Eton truetrac, steel retainers, a drain plug and a Spicer 1350 front yoke oh and got one of their dana 44 batwing covers too.
also ordered the EM racing cryo treated outer axle stubs.
I'm still deciding on the halfshafts (steel or aluminum??)
hoping in a few week I can get the car back together!
They say that aluminum will handle more torque but steel is better at high rpm. That's at least what the machine shop told me when they were making my driveshaft. But the reality is any aftermarket shaft (steel or aluminum) is going to be stronger then a stock shaft. They use better alloys that are much thicker. Most speed shops will use 0.125 wall for aluminum and 0.083 for steel. Both will have forged weld on yokes instead of basic cast. So either way you're probably not going to break an aftermarket shaft.
I ended up deciding on steel DOM tubing half shafts. It was a tough decision because I hate to add weight to the suspension going with steel. But my thinking is that a real weak point on the shafts is the ears that mount the u-joints and I figured steel ears are a lot stronger than aluminum ones. I imagine the tube part of the shaft is similar strength for steel or thicker aluminum on an aftermarket halfshaft.
I think the u-joints in my new setup will likely be the weak point. But there isn't much way around u-joints when using a C4 style suspension. I think the The only alternative to u-joints is to basically backhalf the car and do a totally different style IRS or go solid axle and I'm really not prepared to do that this point as this is an 'unplanned' repair and I want it back on the road this summer.
Anyhow hopefully this new setup is strong enough for my uses, certainly stronger than before. I think as long as I keep an eye on the u-joints, bolts and don't try to launch it with slicks on a prepped track It will be just fine.
I forgot to mention I also decided to use a 3.54 ratio rear gear this time around.
I thought last time 3.73 would be ideal, but although it was good for parking lot stuff, traction in 1st and even 2nd gear was always a bit difficult so I think 3.54 will perhaps provide a little more usable 1st gear without giving up much low speed ease of driving. I imagine slightly less torque multiplication with the new ratio will slightly help the u-joints, halfshafts and stub axles survive too.
I ended up deciding on steel DOM tubing half shafts. It was a tough decision because I hate to add weight to the suspension going with steel. But my thinking is that a real weak point on the shafts is the ears that mount the u-joints and I figured steel ears are a lot stronger than aluminum ones. I imagine the tube part of the shaft is similar strength for steel or thicker aluminum on an aftermarket halfshaft.
I think the u-joints in my new setup will likely be the weak point. But there isn't much way around u-joints when using a C4 style suspension. I think the The only alternative to u-joints is to basically backhalf the car and do a totally different style IRS or go solid axle and I'm really not prepared to do that this point as this is an 'unplanned' repair and I want it back on the road this summer.
Anyhow hopefully this new setup is strong enough for my uses, certainly stronger than before. I think as long as I keep an eye on the u-joints, bolts and don't try to launch it with slicks on a prepped track It will be just fine.
If you haven't ordered the steel shafts yet check these guys out. HERE
They really know what the're doing. The quality of work is outstanding and at very reasonable prices. All of there prices include non greasable forged U joints. All there steel tubing is DOM and the ends are forged.
I forgot to mention I also decided to use a 3.54 ratio rear gear this time around.
I thought last time 3.73 would be ideal, but although it was good for parking lot stuff, traction in 1st and even 2nd gear was always a bit difficult so I think 3.54 will perhaps provide a little more usable 1st gear without giving up much low speed ease of driving. I imagine slightly less torque multiplication with the new ratio will slightly help the u-joints, halfshafts and stub axles survive too.
Your 3.73 differential w/gears should be a fairly easy 'local' sale.
Originally Posted by DMITTZ
Ok guys, I've made some choices and ordered some parts.
EM racing 'gladiator dana 44' which I've had upgraded it with Eton truetrac, steel retainers, a drain plug and a Spicer 1350 front yoke oh and got one of their dana 44 batwing covers too.
So you'll also need a 'driveshaft' fabricated along w/half-shafts?
If you haven't ordered the steel shafts yet check these guys out. HERE
They really know what the're doing. The quality of work is outstanding and at very reasonable prices. All of there prices include non greasable forged U joints. All there steel tubing is DOM and the ends are forged.
Thank you for the tip!
I actually have a couple friends that own speed shops and after telling one of them about the mishap. He checked with his 'driveline guy' and tells me he asked him if he could make some 'indestructible' 1000hp capable halfshafts. And the driveline guy gave him a quote. So I'm going to get the halfshafts from him.
Your 3.73 differential w/gears should be a fairly easy 'local' sale.
So you'll also need a 'driveshaft' fabricated along w/half-shafts?
the Dana 44 housing is missing the camber rod ear, but otherwise seems ok (internals should be good).
Yes, after what happened I'm going to have the driveshaft modified to accept 1350 u-joints. I always wanted that, but supply chain issues ment I had to settle for 1310 stuff when the shop made the driveshaft before. Actually to be honest driveline (diveshaft and half shaft) custom builds around here are inexpensive and easy as we have a number of major manufacturers locally.
Durability was always goal number 1 on my LS build, I thought I had achieved it but since I perhaps missed the mark on the rear end driveline stuff I want to make sure that there is very little chance it can happen again.
I'll also be adding in regular u-joint and u-joint bolt inspections to my 'must do' list with this car.
also I'll post in the for sale section later but, if anyone wants to try their hand at tig welding a dana 44 or just take the gears out, I'm going to put mine up for sale soon for cheap.
the Dana 44 housing is missing the camber rod ear, but otherwise seems ok (internals should be good).
Yes, after what happened I'm going to have the driveshaft modified to accept 1350 u-joints. I always wanted that, but supply chain issues ment I had to settle for 1310 stuff when the shop made the driveshaft before. Actually to be honest driveline (diveshaft and half shaft) custom builds around here are inexpensive and easy as we have a number of major manufacturers locally.
If you go 1350 U joint with a Dana 44 you will have to notch the C beam to clear. It's not bad but just giving you a heads up. I think I still have pictures of the notch you would need to cut if you want to see them.
If you go 1350 U joint with a Dana 44 you will have to notch the C beam to clear. It's not bad but just giving you a heads up. I think I still have pictures of the notch you would need to cut if you want to see them.
thanks for the heads up, I sort of figured that would be the case as it's really tight even with the stock 1310 stuff.
I Found this old pic. Sorry I didn't have one closer to the notch. But look on the differential end you can see how much you'll need to cut. It's only on the one end on the bottom of the C beam. Also the amount you will need to cut will also depend on what diff yoke you use. I used a forged Yukon Gear.
I Found this old pic. Sorry I didn't have one closer to the notch. But look on the differential end you can see how much you'll need to cut. It's only on the one end on the bottom of the C beam. Also the amount you will need to cut will also depend on what diff yoke you use. I used a forged Yukon Gear.
I also wanted to ask friends do you have any other suggestions for the rear driveline. Anything I'm over looking?
Have you considered half shaft safety loops? Also are you using solid u joints or the kind that can be greased? The solid joints are said to be stronger.
Have you considered half shaft safety loops? Also are you using solid u joints or the kind that can be greased? The solid joints are said to be stronger.
Yes I already was using the solid spicer u-joints.
Yes, going forward I will use solid/forged u-joints, whatever the best I can get.
YES, I want to use safety loops. The one question I have is what do the safety loops anchor too? The force of the halfshaft was already so strong it broke the batwing clean in half, like cut it in half and ripped the camber rod and a piece of the different out. What is strong enough back there to absorb that force if the safety loop in anchored to it?
my 1990 was built by mick stevens and has a dana 44 by exotic muscle "gladiator" with 4.10 gears and drive shaft and half shafts balanced and spun to 7500 rpm by dynotech and has solid spicers in place. 540 horse plus 175 nos. car has a 396 tpis forged engine.. build it stout so disasters do happen.
