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For the last couple of weeks the clutch in my car has been acting up. There is free play about 1/4 to 1/2 of the way down before I can feel engagement. It seems that after driving for some time, the engagement returns to normal, as in it engages at or very near the top.
Sometimes, the clutch alternates where it decides to engage all during the same drive. Yesterday, it was engaging at the very bottom before it normalized.
I don't see any leaks, there is no grinding, and no other symptoms have been noted.
Have you checked the fluid level in the master cylinder? It sounds like you are getting air in the system. Top up the master cylinder then pump the clutch pedal a bunch.
the master often leaks into the footwell behind the carpet so you don’t see it.
If this is confirmed you can drive it a bit as long as you keep the fluid topped up but definitely do not drive it low or if the clutch is not disengaging properly.
plan to replace both the master and slave cylinder as a pair.
It would not surprise me at all if the master is shot. I bought the car back in May with 76K miles (currently at 78K) and the clutch fluid was very thick with contaminants. I flushed the whole system, but it may have been too late.
Anyway, any objections to the cylinders for sale at RockAuto?
I got the lifetime warranty one from AutoZone. It came raw unpainted. I wish I would have sprayed it black or even satin clear as now it has that orange patina.
Hey guys, just stopped in to see what's happening in C4 Tech/Performance land. Saw this "Clutch Issue" thread and figured I'd put in my two cents. There are two systems involved with clutch operation; 1) Clutch System. 2) Clutch Release System. Articulating the difference will save time and money. The clutch system is a mechanical clamp. The clutch release system is a hydraulic/mechanical interface that releases the clamp. Thread should be called "Clutch Release System Issue", just saying.
While waiting for the new master and slave to arrive, I decided to pull the old master out. After removing the trim under the steering wheel, I laid on my back on top of the door sill and slid into the car until my head hit the pedals. I can see the clip to disconnect the rod from the pedal. I rotated it and unclipped it with my fingers.
I kid you not... This took me like 30 seconds. The absolute easiest part of the whole project so far.
Outside and under the hood I relocated the PCM or of the way. Then I had to loosen up the rocker panel, remove the battery cover/fender vent, removed the battery, and finally the line and the master. Not difficult, but time consuming.
The master is not cast iron... Looks like stamped steel. Is this the original unit?
I pulled the rubber boot back from the master and a bit of fluid came out. Looks like that was it. However, I didn't notice fluid inside the firewall. Maybe I was too excited about removing the clip so quickly.
Don’t know if that is OEM or not. You could have had a very slow leak and if you hadn’t been checking regularly could run low over a long time. It’s not the most obvious thing to check since it sits under the ECM…so often overlooked.
The pedal clip, once you understand how it works you can do by feel, it’s just getting eyeballs on it for the first time!
Well, if it wasn't for you telling me to check the fluid level, I never would have suspected a leak. My garage floor is stain free.
I probably would have been stranded out there somewhere.
I installed the new master and hooked up the line. Unfortunately, the threads on the line maxed out against the master... See pics below. Usually the threads do not max out... See pic of brake master.
I filled up and pumped about 40 times. The pedal is hard... Haven't driven yet though, pending your help.
Am I ok or is this line going to leak? Clutch master Brake master
I have no idea what animal tightened the line to the slave cylinder...I can't get it off. I sprayed it with penetrant and put a lot of muscle into it, but it won't budge.
I was able to break mine free without major issue so did not have this problem.
However, if I was in your situation I would probably drain the system fully from the bleeder, then hit it with PB blaster and let it soak. I’d put a small pipe wrench or maybe some big vice grips on the slave and have at it with a high quality flare wrench. Sometimes the shock of banging on the wrench with your hand can break it loose. Also, try tightening it slightly the loosening again (work it back and forth).
If that didn’t work (and partial reason for draining) I might extremely carefully apply heat, and have something available to put out anything that might lite (brake fluid can burn if hot enough but not volatile like gasoline). Maybe a heat gun would work instead of a torch.
After that, I’d just replace the line…when I did mine I replaced it. The later lines are also easier to do and route than the earlier ones. You can convert.
EDIT: Just had a duh moment, reattach the slave such that you can reach the nut and break it loose installed (assuming you can get a wrench on it).
Thanks for the advice. I was able to break it loose shortly after my post. I think the penetrant helped a bit.
the threads fought me all the way out, as if cross threaded. The problem was rust outside the shave cylinder threads.
Anyway, I cleaned the threads on the line with penetrant, wiped clean and reinstalled.
By the way, a regular wrench is too long with the slave back on. Maybe a stubby wrench. Hell, I even removed the O2 sensor to make life a bit easier.
Clutch Issue
