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I finally got the courage and decided to start replacing the spark plug wires on my car. I had bought these United-Packard wires off Rock Auto. I decided to start on the passenger side since it's much easier that the driver's side.
Anyway, the shortest wire does not reach from the Opti to the #2 plug... It's at least 3 inches too short.
My question is: is there a big difference in length from the driver side to the passenger side, i.e, 1 and 2, 3 and 4, etc?
Bottom line is, I pulled 2 and 4, and neither one had a matching wire. 🤬
What part # were you sold? I'd think if you mention brand/part# someone who has used the same could help. Not knowing that I doubt there's much help available!
I bought a set for my 92 from RA and they don't fit well at all. I also had the same issue with my 89. I feel the aftermarket kits are made too generic so they fit other cars as well. If anything the reach from the opti to plug 1 is longer as it goes through the ac/alternator brackets where plug 2 is almost a direct shot. Since the opti is designed so all the even plugs are on the pass side and odd are on the driver side they don't criss cross down there. Be sure to use the black wire insulator on the plug wires as well. The FSM shows them using it. The wires I took off my 92 didn't have it and with how bad the wires go through so many brackets I think it is critical to have that protection. Also for the drivers side I would pull the serpentine belt, pull the ps pulley off the pump (I have the kti that makes it super easy to pull and press it-I ended up keeping the free loaner tool since it was only $40) and you have better access to the opti. Then remove the smog hoses that are in the way of the rear plugs. Made it a lot easier. Might even want to loosen the master brake lines and then bleed your brakes. Good opportunity to flush your brake fluid if it is older than a few years anyways.
I'm changing the plugs/wires on my 96. Holy crap what a project it's turned into. I've had to remove the power steering, AC compressor, idler pulley, tensioner pulley and for a minute there I thought I was going to have to remove the water pump...
Oh, I used Summit Racing brand 8mm plug wires. All of them are a few inches longer then the OEM wires.
I didn't remove the pulleys the first time I did the wires. When I did my timing chain I discovered how much easier it was to get to the driver side with those pulleys off. I think it is much easier to pull those than to fight with getting the driver side plugs routed with the pulleys in the way. I also did my plug wires in the middle of changing my power brake booster. That's why I commented above probably a lot easier to at least take the brake lines off as those were really in the way in addition to the smog lines.
My set is a bit longer too. Which is what I don't like. The slack allows the plug wires to touch brackets. Everything is hot under there. I used a lot of the black wire cover insulator. One day I'll cut my own wires.
I finally got the courage to swap out my original red wires for AC Delco replacements (black wires).
Passenger side is a 4 in a 1 to 10 scale, 10 being an absolute nightmare.
The driver side was a 10 on steroids, at least untill I figured some things out.
Here are a couple of tips for would-be DIYers:
- Remove intake ducting from throttle body to the filter box. You'll need the room- Remove idler pulley... You will need the room AND you'll be able to duplicate how the wires were routed from the factory a bit easier- Remove tensioner pulley for clearance- Unplug ALL the wires on both ends, pull them all out at once. You will need the space and clearance. Doing one wire at a time is just painful. See picture below and look how tight it is between the brackets
The biggest hurdles:
- The way the wires routed in between brackets, behind the power steering line and idler pulley (see picture, left side arrow)
- The clamp holding the power steering hose to the metal line (right side arrow). One of the squeeze tabs was pointed towards the idler pulley. This added extra " snaking" through of the wires for removal and installation- After 26 years, some of the wires were vulcanized to the Opti terminals, it seems. Removing and installing the top one on the driver side (#5) had me cussing up a storm. Very odd angle and tight clearances to get to it
Of course, it doesn't help having an air show taking place 3000 feet over your head.
Anyway, since I was already this deep, I went ahead and ordered a new tensioner, idler pulley, belt... And new wiper blades.
Last edited by rremesal; Sep 19, 2022 at 01:18 PM.
The way the wires snake through the brackets especially on the driver's side is why they need the additional scrunchy black wire insulation. Hopefully you used that stuff. I see the PO didn't on yours. The PO didn't on mine and I had blue arcs all over the place when I did the open hood at night idle test.
I did reuse the black plastic protector. On the passenger side, 6 and 8 near the dipstick were very brittle. I used as much as I could. However, the ones on the driver side were still flexible, so I was able to reuse them on the new wires.
As far as I can tell, my 96 CE is as virgin under the hood as it gets. Those red wires had not moved since the factory installed then.
I do know one of the previous owners installed a CAGS delete. I removed it because it was messing with the reverse lights, it seems. Interestingly, CAGS still doesn't block 2nd or 3rd.
The clutch safety switch has also been messed with. I can start the car without depressing the clutch. Other than that, 100% unmolested.
I bought a couple of sets of these and my wires do not touch or rub against anything. Dan
I remember that system from back in the day when I owned an 88 Trans Am GTA. I may get me a set.
One thing to keep in mind, wires should be isolated even from each other. The beauty, simplicity and effectiveness of the LS and later coil per cylinder cannot be overstated. 🥺
Plug wires
