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Hi Guys,
I am looking to replace all of the universal joints in our C4 and am a little confused with part no's etc. Wanting to use Spicer parts.
I have looked on Denny's Drivelines and it appears that the parts I need are: Half shafts: 5-3615X (coated, non- greasable) Drive shaft: 5-3613X
Is this correct?
The problem I have is that.I am in Australia and most US stores won't ship to us, including Denny's
I can get these parts from Rock Auto, however, their website states that the 5-3615 for the half shafts is "uncoated". I would have thought that being the same part no. they would be the same part??
if anyone can shed some light or offer some advise, it would be appreciated.
Because the Drive Shafts are Aluminum your suposed to run the coated U-Joints. That being said I don't think to many have had any issues using the regular ones. I'm in the process of replacing mine and Rock Auto just sent me all the Wrong ones for the 1/2 Shafts. I just ordered new ones from Amazon. The 1/2 shafts should be 1350's and the Drive Line 1310.
Ask these folks if they will ship to you (assuming their prices are still competitive). I recently bought u-joints and a transmission yoke from them. They are a small business here in Ohio.
Ask these folks if they will ship to you (assuming their prices are still competitive). I recently bought u-joints and a transmission yoke from them. They are a small business here in Ohio.
daytonclutch.com
Thankyou, I'll look into it! The problem with shipping to Australia is the business have to collect and pay GST back to our Gov, bloody stupid.
Because the Drive Shafts are Aluminum your suposed to run the coated U-Joints. That being said I don't think to many have had any issues using the regular ones. I'm in the process of replacing mine and Rock Auto just sent me all the Wrong ones for the 1/2 Shafts. I just ordered new ones from Amazon. The 1/2 shafts should be 1350's and the Drive Line 1310.
Thank you! That's why I want to try and get the part numbers right. I'm a long way away to exchange
Thank you! That's why I want to try and get the part numbers right. I'm a long way away to exchange
I wouldn't think you need to do a buy in the US. Perhaps some one from 'Down Under' will see your post and respond. There's several that frequent here daily. There's quite likely Dana/Spicer vendors in your part of the world also.
pontiworld (USGM parts) have the U joints for C4 if you dont mind paying extra - but the shipping is quick and you generally get the correct stuff. USGMSP.com (pontiworld.com.au)
Rockauto are usually pretty good too, 7 days and delivered at your door. Cant beat their prices.
Dont worry about the uncoated, if your worried rub a slight smear of grease over body with finger or a quick spray paint. but if its the same number its usually the same part.
Although Corvettes use many parts that are Corvette specific the U-Joints are not. They are some of the most common ones ever made. They should be so common that a few of them have probably fallen down under.
Although Corvettes use many parts that are Corvette specific the U-Joints are not. They are some of the most common ones ever made. They should be so common that a few of them have probably fallen down under.
This is true but what he's looking for are specific versions of those U joints. Spicer coated and probably non-greasable. That wouldn't be as common as a standard 1310 and a 1350 U joint.
OP, hello from Canada, if you are in a bind let me know i have a very good dana spicer dealer locally.
I ordered two full sets from him after my rock auto got lost for 3 months. It did finally show up, but i have to say it finally changed my opinion of RA. WVZR-1 is always recommending local and ive finally started going back local after that experience.
Anyway now I now know my local dana spicer guy, Darcy, at Pats Driveline here in Calgary Canada. Worst case, if you cant find these from a lical supplier, If you would like i can get you a full set for the c4 and mail it to you.
my spicer dealer took me for a tour of his shop. thousands of driveshafts being repaired and balanced. awesome. he explained that the coated cap version was produced for a while when they were unsure if there was going to be galvanic issues. he said there isnt any meaningful % that have issues snd so dana stopped manufacturing that part. no biggie. he said install these with confidence. so i did! the picture above is what you need for all ujoints in the c4. cheers.
While I did find a full set of coated ones (driveshaft, halfshafts) the guy that did my drive shaft said he coats them with grease. He is the guy that does the driveshafts for quite a few of Summit Racing's sponsored people. All he does is driveshafts and halfshafts. Nothing else.
OP, hello from Canada, if you are in a bind let me know i have a very good dana spicer dealer locally.
I ordered two full sets from him after my rock auto got lost for 3 months. It did finally show up, but i have to say it finally changed my opinion of RA. WVZR-1 is always recommending local and ive finally started going back local after that experience.
Anyway now I now know my local dana spicer guy, Darcy, at Pats Driveline here in Calgary Canada. Worst case, if you cant find these from a lical supplier, If you would like i can get you a full set for the c4 and mail it to you.
my spicer dealer took me for a tour of his shop. thousands of driveshafts being repaired and balanced. awesome. he explained that the coated cap version was produced for a while when they were unsure if there was going to be galvanic issues. he said there isnt any meaningful % that have issues snd so dana stopped manufacturing that part. no biggie. he said install these with confidence. so i did! the picture above is what you need for all ujoints in the c4. cheers.
Thankyou, really appreciate that I will let you know if I get stuck!
Last edited by Mung Bean; Sep 4, 2022 at 03:31 AM.
This is true but what he's looking for are specific versions of those U joints. Spicer coated and probably non-greasable. That wouldn't be as common as a standard 1310 and a 1350 U joint.
Thank you, yes you are correct. I am being quite specific, but that's just me, I like using genuine or original parts.
Thank you, yes you are correct. I am being quite specific, but that's just me, I like using genuine or original parts.
the other option being in Australia is to just go to the local bearing place, and take the old ones with you.
1310 and 1350 u joints are quite commonly available in Australia.
There is a SKF bearing place near me, and you can take just about anything there (including just the part number) and they will get it, and usually quite cheap.
I bought bearings and seals for my Dana 44 there, and also got a complete set of wheel bearings for a Kawasaki 900 just recently for about 1/3 cost of the sets from motorcycle sellers.
the other option being in Australia is to just go to the local bearing place, and take the old ones with you.
1310 and 1350 u joints are quite commonly available in Australia.
There is a SKF bearing place near me, and you can take just about anything there (including just the part number) and they will get it, and usually quite cheap.
I bought bearings and seals for my Dana 44 there, and also got a complete set of wheel bearings for a Kawasaki 900 just recently for about 1/3 cost of the sets from motorcycle sellers.
Absolutely nothing wrong with SKF's. I have SKF's to go in the halfshafts. However, I had originally bought SKF's for the driveshaft but changed my mind due to the zerk fittings and the caps didn't look to be coated, even though they were suppposed to be. The halfshaft ones look pretty good.
Universal Joints
