I will try to get a dyno test this weekend.

My last run before the topend buildup was 249\331 at the rear wheels

Since then:

SR, LPE 219, 1.6 RR, Hypertech Cap\coil, Taylor Wires, Fully Ported Stock Heads, Custom Programming by Ski.

I hope its up around 330-345 rwhp........what do you guys think?

I figure..

SR- 35 HP maybe 45 its fully polished!!!! HAHA
Cam- 35 HP
Heads- 40
1.6 RR- 10

That adds up 120 hp....
Wait, those claims are at the crank right???? I would be happy with 85-95 at the wheel!

 

It allll depends on how close the tune is my friend. :) As a starting point I would be thrilled with anything over 300 to start with!! I was honestly shocked when I heard I made 322 on the first pull. I was hoping for like 290. Make sure if you can that you get the air/fuel ratios.

 

Dyno is set for Friday morning @ 9 am.

I hope for:

325 rwhp

 

285hp/340torque :yesnod:

 

Jesse, can you pick the Jets\Raiders and TB\49ers games for me?????


I am trying to post the dyno results.

 

Gus,

Can't pick the teams for you. It would be a bias guess towards the Raiders! :thumbs:

Your graphs definately show a few things of concern.

1. The AFR is definately leaning out. it shouldn't be with the tune I gave it, if anything it should be a little on the rich side...

There is two reasons the graph is so jagged, and one is MOST likely related to the other. One is you are probably getting knock counts from being lean, therefore the power is cutting in and out, hence the jagged line. Now why are you lean? My best guess, since I am the one that did the chip and I know what is in there and like I said you should be if anything rich, is this.

1. The Fuel pump is weak
2. The Fuel filter is slightly plugged
3. You have an intake leak that is pulling in outside air.

Did you do any checks that I recommended on the fuel system. Both 1 and 2 can be checked with a fuel pressure guage. Should only take ~10 minutes tops.

you need to hook it up, take the car to somewhere you can lay into it for a 1/4 mile run and have your boy watch the guage. I bet it jumps up then slowly drops pressure as you hit the higher RPMs. The pressure should jump up and hold steady throughout the run. These pumps getting weak is a VERY common thing.

Try to get some scanner information to me as well.

Here are your pics:





Others can voice there opinions as well. I wish you lived closer to me and we would most likely be able to figure it out in a weekend's time :rolleyes:

I will bet on the fact its most likely the FP.


[Modified by ski_dwn_it, 1:44 PM 1/10/2003]

 

Reguardless of WHY it is happening right now at this moment....



The green line is where I am trying to get my own car to. Notice how smooth his power curves are in the circled red areas compared to the A/F.

 

Gus, any idea what your fuel pressure was at throughout the pull? If you haven't, it would be a good idea to tape a fuel pressure gauge to your window and hit the highway. Have a passenger watch the pressure as you pull throughout a single gear.

I'm not so sure it is the fuel pump at this point as the A/F comes back into acceptable levels at 5800. If the pump was dead it should just plain be dead.

 

In the Excel file you sent over the highest TPS value I can find is 3.96v

While that isn't the normal 4.5 we try to acheive, it SHOULD be enough to put the car into Power Enrichment mode. I'm not sure how the SD cars are setup, but my MAF ECM goes into P/E at 3.45v by default.

*edit*

I take that back, I just found some 4.16v values. Still not quite as high as I would like to see them.

*double edit*

I now see it says that is 100% for TPS, does the SD ECM have a self adjusting TPS on it?


[Modified by scorp508, 2:01 PM 1/10/2003]

 

I can check the Fuel Pressure tonight, I need to wait for some of the working stiffs to get out of work!!!!

I know its not the filter, I changed it 6 months ago.
It may have a tiny leak in the intake, I still havent found out whats the cause for that little surge when coming to a stop light.

Maybe I should run it with Craig Moates ECM to see what the A\F ratios are at my my O2 instead of the tail sniffer??? Or can you guys get that from the TTS Datamaster O2 volts?

Thanks for the help!

So should I change the Fuel Pump?

 

I would hold off on that for now. When the stiffs get outta work check the pressure. Start the car with the gauge connected and remove the vacuum line to the regulator. Take note of what the gauge reads. Reattach the vacuum line at that point. Then tape the gauge where the passenger can read it and close the hood.

Get out on the highway and take her up to 6000 in 2nd gear and make sure the passenger is looking to see if the values get SMALLER on the gauge or not and if so how much. You are basically looking to see if the pressure stays relatively steady within a couple PSI. If you see it dropping by a good amount then the pump isn't able to keep up with the fuel demand.

 

You should only change the FP if the pressure is dropping off. You need to do the test I described to know for sure.

As for the TPS reading of 100%, scorp. Alot of scanner software has entries that you can fill in prior to logging that will calculate the % of throttle off those entries. In other words if your voltage is only 0-4.15V you enter those values and you get a % reading based off those, so he could be getting 100% off those numbers just by chance.

You need to find the vacuum leak, even if its a small one! These SD cars are MUCH more touchy than the MAF, everything is based on manifold pressure and if you have a leak, its throwing everything off.

There is no rush...just be sure to check everything thoughly, or you will be chasing your tail for the next year+.

I would like to see the data too :cheers:

 

Gus,

I looked at the data....

Nothing tooooo bad jumped out at me. We need to resolve these unknows and then we can move forward.

There are some slight knock counts in the data...nothing that is dramatic though. It most likely related to the fuel shortage we are seeing. As I mentioned to you earlier in an email, the cross counts on the O2 seem to me a bit lazy, in other words a heated O2 is most likelt in order. This will resolve your idle problem hopefully. The IAC counts seem to be decent, higher than I would like to see them. Perhaps you could go through the tech tips procedure to set min idle and TPS voltage, as your is ~.69 at idle.

These last issues I described are unrelated to the WOT fuel shortage by the way, but may make throttle response better along with idle.

A question was brought up about voltage and if you were seeing WOT. The 128/128 BLM is a sure indicator that WOT is being achieved. Ne need to worry there.

Let us know what you find with the fuel. If that checks out we will just burn you another chip to see if the AFR straightens out, perhaps your car is a FREAK :leaving:

 

Based on the graphs, it looks like he has about 280 - 285 max hp, but I can't tell what his max torque is. Can one of you guys post his actual numbers?

Thanks,

Mike

 

What are the #'s ? I can't see them on the graph.

Vic

 

I think it says 282.2 rwhp & 328 ft/lb

I expect both of those (esp the torque) to shoot up once the A/F is resolved. He has the same major rich problem I do down low killing the torque.

 

I think the FP is fine. If not, the run would stay lean from mid RPM up, the richness would not come back at the higher RPM.

I like Ski's advice to eliminate variables, and the heated O2 should definitely help. All I can say about low RPM from looking at that...maybe you need to follow the path of setting minimum idle speed and TPS voltage....because it looks like thats out of whack, you need to get to lower iac counts at idle. Do this by increasing minumum idle and then readjust the tps to decrease idle volts.

Looks like tuning problem to me, like fix the idle, fatten the midrange up and play with timing some.


PS: Did you do the heads yourself? Looks pretty butchered up ( j/k)...Don't take that as a bad thing, it's all a learning experience.



[Modified by BBA, 6:23 PM 1/10/2003]

 

guys look at his first graph it is jaggy too plus the graph does not show horsepower equals torque at 5250 rpm there is something wrong with that dyno. torque always equal horsepower at 5250 that is a constant the jaggedness is ill bet it is slipping all over that dyno :cheers:

 

Okay guys, I will look for an intake leak again, this time with ether rather than carb cleaner, but we checked thoroughtly last time and could not find anything.

I will also check if the fuel pressure holds up during a run.

As far as the TPS, I usually adjust it with TTS Datatmaster, I hook it up, and check the volts read from the ECM.

Where can I get a heated O2 sensor? Autozone? Also, is there a tech tip to install it, like where am I going to get electricity for it???? I guess it needs to be switched, right?

THat shouldnt be affecting the wide open throttle though right? The ECM only uses the O2 during normal operation, or is it the other way around???

Corkvette- that was a Dynojet Dynamometer. I dont know what you are referring to.

I will hopefully get all this done tomorrow, and send you some more data.

Thanks for all the help so far, beers on me this weekend!

Gus

 

If your iac counts are high...it means your min idle is set too low to start with...in effect, its the opposite of a vacuum leak, so checking for a leak is a waste of time.



[Modified by BBA, 11:52 PM 1/10/2003]