C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Warm 4L60E in Hot Mode????

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Old Nov 5, 2022 | 11:23 AM
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Default Warm 4L60E in Hot Mode????

I got an auto '96 that's been having tranny issues. I ran a data log recently. After reviewing it, I noticed my tranny would go into Hot Mode. I've read it does it when the tranny senses an overheating of some sort, kind of like limp mode. Anyhow, as my tranny goes into HM, the temps are all fine (Egn 212F, Trn 198F)... maybe except for the South Texas Weather . My speed was about 19mph at the time too. Any knowledge on this issue is greatly appreciated.
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Old Nov 5, 2022 | 04:10 PM
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Well I have to say that I've been driving my 95 auto for a long time and I've never heard of a "hot mode".
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Old Nov 5, 2022 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Peabody
Well I have to say that I've been driving my 95 auto for a long time and I've never heard of a "hot mode".
94 - 95 PCM should trigger a code 58 temperature high according to CATS. Switch table.
Google and others have it backwards as 59


It would appear. the trans temp sensor failed.
Similar to a CTS. Should be a fairly simple replacement. Should be just above the shifter select cable. Front of pan DS.
Inappropriate.. But. Someone could resolve 4L60(e) series simple UN [ ]
If the temp was in fact proven wrong.

96 OBD II PCM i would image very similar.

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Old Nov 5, 2022 | 05:34 PM
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[QUOTE=IHBD;1605872345]DTC 58 is TFT circuit LOW (HIGH Temperature Indicated)
DTC 59 is TFT circuit HIGH (LOW temperature indicated).


Incorrect.


Correct
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Old Nov 5, 2022 | 06:45 PM
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I've been following your thread. You mentioned that a previous owner "had it flashed". I think you have errors and perhaps corruption in the calibration. Your indications for TPS, throttle angle, and now hot mode, make no sense.
He is running on a 100% stock, uncorrupted image that I gave him. His car is basically my car, with just a couple changes (tire size for one). I went in, changed the VIN to his car and emailed it to him. He was able to get it to flash correctly after changing the tire size.

We have been talking daily and trying to figure it out. I have a new battery coming for my laptop and I am going to datalog the engine on my car to get a good baseline to look at. There could be some faulty wiring, or what he was using before (Tech2Win) through a different cable, could have been reporting wrong.

OR it could be a bad ( - fill in the blank -).

Part of our issue is that I am always a day or so behind, some of the things he is running into, I have no knowledge of yet (so I have to also do research) and I am running a deadline into winter when the car will no longer leave the garage.

Using the forum here as a sounding board, repository of knowledge (which there is a lot) is good practice.
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Old Nov 5, 2022 | 06:49 PM
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Read this

https://forum.efilive.com/showthread...0E-Tranny-Temp
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Old Nov 5, 2022 | 09:28 PM
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The original image may have been corrupted. We both have Jet DST. I extracted the image and saved it. Opened it up in the editor, made the changes, saved it under a new name and emailed it to him. Just the same as if he ordered it from PCMFORLESS. This is what let him get the car going.

We know the original owner did some stuff. There are semi roller rockers in it (roller tip)

Some of his weird indications could be the program he's using for data acquisition. There's probably nothing wrong with his fluid temperature, or with his TPS sensors and wiring.
I've lost track of what his malfunction IS.

IIRC, it won't shift out of second, correct? (This is the root problem he's chasing?)

If "No 2-3 upshift" is what he's trying to solve, here's what I'd try. Unplug the transmission connector. Or pull the fuse for the power to the transmission, in a 95 it is the VALET fuse. (I don't know which fuse it is in a 96). Go for a drive. With the shifter in D4, the transmission should be in 3rd gear only. {3rd gear solenoid state is OFF-OFF, same thing as no power to the transmission.) If there is NO 3rd Gear, the transmission has internal problems.
You and I are thinking the same thing. I even asked him to go over all the wires looking for places it could have been chewed or pinched etc.

​​​​​​​There could be some faulty wiring, or what he was using before (Tech2Win) through a different cable, could have been reporting wrong.
The baselines that I will get will be using the same setup (well a different brand computer) but both running Windows XP, service pack 3 and the same data acquisition software.

I figure that since I have a low mileage car with no mods (it just now turned 28,000, had 12,000 in 2016 when I bought it), runs great, that it would be a good baseline to compare readings against.

I like mechanical gauges that you know are reporting correctly. In my Duramax, I put in an oil temperature gauge so I can keep a read on that. Now that I am well and over last fall's little issue, I am going to start building the car and will put in more mechanical gauges in a windshield pillar gauge pod.

We both are learning !
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Old Nov 5, 2022 | 10:07 PM
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use this for a google search, has some interesting reads it looks like

4l60e overheating site:sonnax.com

I have found some info on the web talking about wiring issues and false signals
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Old Nov 5, 2022 | 10:13 PM
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Trans temp needs to stay around 155-165*F ideal.
Try not let it pass 175*F much.
My absolute max is 185-190*F then let it cool.

Its hard to keep cool. But if you want the max lifespan this is a necessity.
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Old Nov 5, 2022 | 11:13 PM
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A lot of great feedback gentleman, thank you. I tried the fuse, same issue. But that was a while ago, and the most recent swap was the valve body with all new electronics. I started off using the mdi1 with the tech2, but some of the parameters were iffy, like the knocks, 9k?! 🤣🤣🤣. So I took another direction. They seem a little more realistic. I printed out six frames from the log, starting right before hot mode kicks on, and for when hot mode kicks off. Here’s a link of the six files, if you want to take a gander:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/n68x59ly6...6seTawTha?dl=0

Thanks again
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Old Nov 6, 2022 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by IHBD
WHAT is "the issue"? (I went back and read the other thread. It won't up-shift past 2nd.)

With the shifter in D4, did you get 3rd gear only when the fuse was removed? ( Make a note of RPM @ certain Road Speeds when in 2nd. With the fuse removed, if it is in 3rd, the RPM will be lower for the same Road Speeds.) Again: If you don't have 3rd gear only with the fuse removed, it is an internal transmission problem.

My apologies chief.... When I removed the fuse, it didn't go into 3rd. In fact, it did exactly nothing. It stayed in the same condition, No up-shift passed second. But... I HAVE to depress the pedal quickly in order to get it to fully engage into 2nd. As if I was driving a manual transmission, but still no 3rd or 4th.
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Old Nov 6, 2022 | 10:49 AM
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Well, the joke was on me . Turns out the MDI1 and Tech2 were pretty accurate.
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