When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've been attempting some research on a 383 conversion and it would seem that I can make a 377 by using my stock 350 4.000 in bore and a 3.750 crank. I have a ridiculous amount of camshaft questions as well. What lift and duration are good for a mild street engine? Can I find a reasonably priced hydraulic roller cam/lifter set that fits the specifications? What exactly do the camshaft's lift and duration affect? What's the difference between stock rocker arms and roller rockers? What do rocker arms affect? If I'm using stock heads and an otherwise stock valvetrain (with new parts that fit the stock specs), what clearance issues do I need to worry about with pistons? How does all of this fit together? Please help!!
next..
Stage 2 TPI.. 700r4.. Dana 36.. Ta do. VS not to do's.
Stage 3 computer tuning.
This is where I got the idea for the 377, it's got a parts list for a mild 383 that supposedly puts out 412 hp on cast heads, but I'd like to understand what the parts and measurements mean/do. Putting it together off of a parts list is like copying math homework over a section you don't get. And to quote Jimmy Buffet, "Math Sucks."
Mercruiser made 377's for a while. Also called them 6.2MPI's. If you don't need to bore then IMO, don't and leave the factory bore and go 377. But if you need to bore then the options go on from there but the standard is .030 over and go 383.
I had a pair of the merc 377 Mags in my Donzi and they were smooth running great engines.
It really depends on the block you're using. Minimum wear you can do a 377. Cylinders are worn either different block or bore to oversize. There's a 377 by destroking a 400, but that is a different animal.