Hi all,

BEHOLD--my """new""" '94 Manual colored in red:

Yeah, yeah, it's dirty. But my priorities are more focused on not killing myself on the road leading to the DIY car wash first. Still looks surprisingly good, what with all the dirt, minor clear coat damage and paint chips. I've only given it a few test drives around the block since buying it, and even on my first drive I noticed the brakes were horrifyingly unresponsive. Keep in mind I wasn't driving over 15mph just to be careful on all my drives so far. Pressing down on the brake pedal was a little too easy, and by that I mean there was absolutely no resistance when the pedal moved from resting position to the floor of the cab, and the car barely slows down quick enough when it is floored.. Naturally, something was up--and if that didn't sink into my brain that there was something up with the brake system, then these did:

So, clearly there's something wrong here, so I decided to pop up the hood and check the master cylinder, like any rational car owner would... Well guess what? There isn't a single drop of brake fluid left in the reservoir, so the brakes have likely been pumping 100% air! That explains all the weird happenings, right? So, I promptly fill up the master cylinder w/ DOT 3 brake fluid and start pumping the brake pedal to get some more info on the situation. I instantly start feeling the previously-anticipated pressure and resistance of your everyday brake pedal again... But then, I start to hear a squirting noise--and I see this:

And that puddle of brake fluid explains the squirting noise from the spot under where I was sitting. I took a pic of what the underside looks like:

This is likely the reason why the 'vette didn't have any brake fluid, thus causing the concerns with the pedal and lit warning lights. I don't know if this is some sort of bushing that I can replace or if I need to replace the entire front-to-back brake line, but any help would be greatly appreciated. Such as tips, experiences, lessons, or links/resources to buy this particular part (I don't want to buy the entire brake line set--too expensive for just one line)

Thanks for reading.

 

You can make a new section of line yourself. You'll need to learn to use a flaring tool and buy some unions. Do not use copper lines and compression fittings.

 

Try a very stiff rubber hose with heavy duty clamps after snipping the 4" or 5" leaking area. If that does not work, you will need to get new fuel lines.

 

Thanks, any reason not to use copper lines? The tool doesn't seem too hard to learn, but can you explain compression fittings? Does this kit work? Not really sure how these fittings would attach to each other


Thanks to you too, any recommendations on the specific type of hose? I've been running all around town getting stuff for the broken hood latch and I don't think I saw too much at the hardware stores for this :/

 

Copper and compression fittings are for not designed for brake line usage and the pressures involved.
The kit you have linked will work but you still will need a double flaring tool. Those fittings shown slip over the line, then you must flair it and they screw into a matching inverted flair fitting. Your local autoparts store should have a short piece of preflared tubing with fittings installed. You must then buy 2 inverted flare unions and 2 more flare fittings like on the brake line you purchased. They may have a double flaring tool you can borrow or rent but no way around not making the flairs. You also need a tubing cutter to keep the ends square when cut.
You might want to rethink the rubber hose and clamps. I think Topduart was thinking about a fuel line.
While your under there, take a look at all the other clamping points, you may have some other sections that need attention too.

 

I think you missed the fact that he has a brake line leak, brake pressures are easily over 1000 PSI. I would even recommend against using your suggestion for a fuel line in a fuel injected car.

 

^This

 

Copper lines can work harden is used and this will lead to fractures, you can use kunifer brake line which is a corrosion resistance copper nickel alloy and is much easier to flare, you can use an inline repair, however if it has failed already it would be better to replace the full line if not both

 

i see, yeah i don't think the whole line is in trouble as I'm seeing the leak only in one spot. I'll reread everyone's advice before i stop into the parts store.

 

Still take a look at the other mounting points. Road grime and moisture in those areas will lead to corrosion. If its corroded it can start leaking when you do the repair and start moving the lines around.

 

Ahh that makes sense, I'll check everything out while I'm down there this week. What is the brake line size for these cars? Is it 3/16 like most lines?