After reading duplicate posts saying the same thing in a cryptic manner, i still do not understand what's going on? Today i trailered my '89 AT to our garage. Car sat for 4 years. Original owner car, older gentlemen, his wife kept it around as a keepsake, but her daughters, self finally decided to sell it. Okay.. its in good shape, and the interior is 7.5/10.. factory floormats are worn @ throttle and brake. other than that, and spraying 1/4" of moss off of it, it looks nice, and was taken care of. She did tell me, and i was aware that her husbands mechanic said it needed a head gasket. So i bought it. Does this L98 (All original, 80k miles) have a roller cam, and can i shop "Small Block Chevy Hydraulic Roller Cam, or are just the lifters roller. And to be truthful , i couldn't make out a hydraulic camshaft and roller camshaft laying next to each other, nor owned something like this. I'm removing the engine, retaining factory short block, having heads inspected at the machine shop, if they pressure test ok, there going to rebuild them, with springs, keepers, retainers, seals, 3 angle cut. The month there being done, im putting a Lunati "Bootlegger" hydraulic roller camshaft and timing chain into and onto the engine. the timing chain is JEGS Part #:555-20412. Will this work, and the info I've encountered is telling me some timing chains/gears are to deep to clear the factory cover?. Also installing a new Melling M-55 oil pump? Is this combination of parts going to jYve??? Oh! using a brand new 2400-2800 Stall converter...30spline lockup. From what I've learned, the trans is a 700R4. I know these questions have already been covered, and I've gotten a couple replies. Any sort of help, will be gratefully appreciated!!!

 

As for a cam I would look at the comp XFI cam line. It will work well with a computer controlled EFI.

 

Reading your posts makes me think you are going to be way over your head in a cam swap.

To answer a question, almost all lifters are hydraulic. Solid lifters are generally used in race cars that see a lot of maintenance, and solid lifters require frequent adjustment.
Hydraulic lifters come in two styles, flat and roller. Roller lifters offer a few advantages over the flat ones, namely less friction and better cam lobe profiles. It is possible to retrofit roller lifters in a non-roller block if you want. You can use roller lifters on a flat cam, but not the other way around.

Now you have the car, do your own inspection and determine why it overheated and if it needs a headgasket or a new head, or if the mechanic was bullshitting the previous owner.

 

The hydraulic roller cam started in 1987, so you have that. You have '113 D-port heads as well, which started in 88.

M55 is what I would recommend for the pump as well.

However that cam is too big to work well with TPI intake, if the specs I found are the right Lunati cam. That would be something i put in a 383 or 396 with a Miniram, putting it under TPI would be a complete mismatch of the power bands and will be a bitch to tune the chip for anyway with that intake.

 

64scout:
I'm new to EFI 8cylinders, but sold a 577awhp 98 Eclipse. Same machine shop built the 2.0, FP-Red, 1150cc FIC's, and the project before that was an '89 Conquest TSi, .020 J&E, Pauter, Head, turbo.. but!! on the g54b i was limited to stock fuel with added AIC, and 1bar map sensor.. so 15psi was the Haltech's realm of aid.. But!!! i jumped on this 1989 Corvette... repairing the head gasket(s) isn't above my skill level, but I want to "Buy it the first time, and get it done" Removing the engine, and swapping a cam in/out isn't the hard part, its reading posts, responses having to do with "the right combo of parts to purchase, to accomplish the goal", w/most folks already bought, tested, and have input.

Driveit:
Will pay them a visit, and have a peE...

Vader86:
Here is the camshaft i was looking at : Lunati XXX12232HR Bootlegger. I believe its like 2200rpm to 6000rpm powerband. Yes?/No? Sorry I didn't originally post the cam info.. there are numerous "Bootleggers" out there...

And also, after talking it over at the workplace, on a snowy PA winter morning, I am going to try to start it. (Thanks 64scout!! and yeah, the owner was an 81 year old man, who parked it the day his tech said it needed a head gasket, and i think they were trying to gank him). If indeed it needs a head gasket, and the short block has oil pressure, compression.. that will be the building block. Heads need pressure tested, and I trust the machine shop and there rates. I will be retaining the tpi setup and after hearing back from the forum, it seems the tpi manifold is 1000-5400? 5600? efficiency range? that's why I chose the more mild Lunati. FIrst things first, its 37F where i live right now, but still got things rolling, bought a spare ignition key, will take outside key to Wal*Mart of Ace.. $3 -vs- Chevy dealership probably ganking me $50 for this ignition double sided chipped key!!! LOL!!!

All input is extremely helpful, and even gives me more motivation to get it going... in which direction.. not sure of as of this moment.

-Thanks!!

 

No, that cam is too big for TPI, way too much duration. Needs more head than you have on it too.

TPI can't get close to 6000rpm

 

Vader86:
5600?? i didnt know it was that much of a restriction?? I'm not asking you to pick out, or choose a camshaft for me, but what the stock tpi Intake powerband?? Generally speaking..

 

Its a low-end intake, basically from 2000-4800rpm, HP peak is somewhere around 4300 so you'd shift before 5000. TQ peak just over 3000.

To match well with a TPI intake, you wouldn't need more than 210/215ish @050" and it still wouldn't get to 5600 rpm I'd bet. Intake can't get the air into the engine.

You want to pull 6000, you have to go to a Miniram.

 

Well.. that settles things... I appreciate and respect your response. Now!!! to do Everything so i dont gunk up the fuel system.. the battery has been dead for 2 years.. gotta drain fuel, check for resin, clean, change oil, put "something" into the cylinders (AT Fluid,, PB Blaster), marvel mystery oil) to lube cylinder walls, and eat-at any sort of rust in the cylinders. i'll make sure fuel pump relay and fuse...(and any others.. I haven't looked yet!! :-/ ) lots to do, but it's cold out..... have to remove lock-lugs, because i can't find the key!! Thank you again!!!

 

The factory TPI top end will serious restrict your power.

You should strongly consider IMO changing intake manifold setups.

ObviousObviously first you gotta set budget and horsepower goals.

There are TONS of threads on the TPI on this forum, a big one we did last year for my 89 TPI build.

Bottom line however is that unless you have some particular affinity for the TPI intake, your best bang for the buck in terms of horsepower per dollar will be to leave the TPI behind.

 

64scout:
If I'm hearing what you said. My block, and cam bearings will accept a Hydraulic cam??? Or does it have to be a Hydraulic Roller cam? Like would a mild cam, Eh.. Wolverine Blue Racer, or Competition Cams hydraulic cam for a SBC work with my block? I've never gotten the chance to play with roller stuff.. usually solid lifters, stud girdles, and regular valve lash being set. Oh! to clear THAT up, im Not using solid lifters. If what you said works here, i'll use roller lifters.. Sorry to sound so lame, but i want to know enough about this platform.. thanks..

I forgot to ask, will a double roller timing chain fit with the stock timing cover? Just a brand name (I guess) double roller timing chain work?

-Thanks Again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

 

Cloyes double roller.

You have a hydraulic roller cam, not flat tappet. Theres no reason for you to try going back to a flat tappet. Any Gen 1 SBC hydraulic roller, of which you have hundreds of options, will fit the block.

But only a few go well with the intake.

 

Vader86:
Thanks, Again!!! I had that exact timing chain setup in mind. The only reason I asked about hydraulic NON-ROLLER is 1/2 the cost. I do know how to use the search feature, but here goes. Where can I find an aftermarket intake manifold?
FIRST? MiniRam?? I found a kit for larger runners for the tpi.. but they want close to $600 shipped. I've searched everywhere, and cant find any aftermarket intake manifold solution. I've seen flow numbers, and does the MiniRam re-use the tpic rails?? or do i need them and an aftermarket regulator??

 

None of it is cheap. Power costs money. Most stuff aside from TPiS is not in production. Exhaust needs to be done with all avenues.

TPiS makes the Miniram, you'll need to buy it and its fuel rails. You do not require the AFPR, but its good to have. MR is more like the LT1's intake, it will want to rev more. You'll need a whole new valvetrain to go with the cam choice you make, and 1.6 RR preferably.

FIRST is more like an oversized TPI, the powerband goes up, the diameter of the runners goes up, but the runner length inhibits very high RPM work.

Modded TPI parts are around on ebay, can use a larger AS&M runner setup, port the plenum, change the base manifold to Accel or TPiS.

SuperRam is a midrange intake, this is what I use, and its capable of 6000 but my power peaks a bit below that. You can find them on ebay at times.

 

A quality non roller timing chain set will do just fine, they run many thousands of miles problem free.

 

Currently doing, heads/cam/intake. I went with the Pro Flo XT intake, which I love the look of. However, I did not save money over the miniram and piecing everything together that you need is quite tedious. The cam I went with has proven a good match with the miniram and stock heads as well (Comp 8-503-8).

 

nice!!!!
What headers are those, and if you dont mind me asking you?? what size injectors are you running, and did you get a PCM tune??? Love that intake!!!

 

Headers are from TPIS and I have zero complaints. I went with 30lb injectors from FIC, and Brian from Tuned Performance will be doing the initial tuning. Hope to get a dyno tune sometime this year.

 

The brain? stock ecu, flashed? piggy back? PCM-tune? or did you go 100% stand-a-lone? I couldnt find any info on "Tuned Peformance" except a Nissan tune outside of the US.
If you wouldnt mind, could you post a link to your ECU/Harness?

Also, do you plan on deleting the smog/emissions hardware?

 

I bought a chip burner and will be doing remote tuning. All smog equipment is gone including cats.

https://tunedperformance.wordpress.com/