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Hi, new to the post
I have a 1993 Corvette with a manual 6 speed transmission, My question is how accurate is the assigned key codes from the factory obtained through the GM Dealerships? My door key is correct per assigned code but the ignition key and the VATS code is different than what is on file with GM's records. This car has only 36000 miles and has been in my possession since 1997, Car has a build date 02 1993 and only had 14000 when I got it. My first thought was that the key and ignition had been changed out within the first 4 years prior to me owning it, GM records do not show any warranty work pertaining to the key or key cylinder change, which would be a common repair if there was a failure with connecting with the key resister chip. What is so confusing is that the VATS code does't match with the factory GM records, I wouldn't think the key cylinder and the computer would have been changed (reprogrammed) within the first 4 years of the car's service life and no warranty records to show the work performed on the car. Thank You, just looking for a logical answer.
If it hadn't been changed then the GM info from a dealer is very reliable. Does a key cut to the original 'mechanical' code rotate in the cylinder? Very seldom will the VATS be included with a GM Dealers 'key call' any longer. It does happen but infrequently! If the code the dealer received was a 2 letter code maybe it was misinterpreted by the dealer.
I have 2 new keys on order for the dealership to cut per GM's provided code via VIN of the car and the actual VATS code that works for the car is #3 and the one provided via GM is #11. When the keys are cut I will post if they will rotate in the ignition cylinder. So are you saying that it is possible to have been recorded wrong from the factory? Thank You for replying
I have 2 new keys on order for the dealership to cut per GM's provided code via VIN of the car and the actual VATS code that works for the car is #3 and the one provided via GM is #11. When the keys are cut I will post if they will rotate in the ignition cylinder. So are you saying that it is possible to have been recorded wrong from the factory? Thank You for replying
Have them cut the codes on a brass 'work-key' before cutting on a 'chipped' blank. GM# for the 'work-key' should be 26007687. Very inexpensive and if they don't have in stock I'd think a local locksmith should. Did the GM 'key call' respond with the #11 or a 2 letter code?
*** Do you have a working key now? The dealer should be able to convert the cuts of the key to a code.
Thanks for the advise, I'll try work key first and yes I do have the keys I have always used with the car. The key VATS code called for number # 11, The car starts with a #3 VATS code resister key.
Originally Posted by WVZR-1
Have them cut the codes on a brass 'work-key' before cutting on a 'chipped' blank. GM# for the 'work-key' should be 26007687. Very inexpensive and if they don't have in stock I'd think a local locksmith should. Did the GM 'key call' respond with the #11 or a 2 letter code?
*** Do you have a working key now? The dealer should be able to convert the cuts of the key to a code.
Does the Dealer show any other work that has been done ? ECM replacement or anything else pertaining to the Vats ? So it sounds as though you know the Key cut and its a number #3. Your real question is why does the dealer network not match. Serial Number mix up ?
Thanks for the advise, I'll try work key first and yes I do have the keys I have always used with the car. The key VATS code called for number # 11, The car starts with a #3 VATS code resister key.
If you've a key that rotates either the dealer or a lock shop should be able to check the mechanical cuts and match to a code! If the dealer that made the 'key call' did they get a 2 letter VATS or did GM actually supply a number 11? Take the key code (mechanical) and ask the dealer or a lock shop to match the cuts of your current key to that #. Very simple and straight forward. If you've a key that rotates and the mechanical cuts match you won't need a work-key.
Here's the letter conversions #3 is FW and #11 is FY
Before I have the keys cut I'm going to double check the vehicle maintenance history and see if any thing comes up pertaining to a cylinder ignition lock replacement and / or computer change / program (if possible) in reference to the VATS code not matching GM's records.
Note: Not having any trouble with using the keys I have now every thing works as it should, just curious about the difference between the records that GM has verses what is actually installed on the car. Thanks to everyone for the replies.
Does the Dealer show any other work that has been done ? ECM replacement or anything else pertaining to the Vats ? So it sounds as though you know the Key cut and its a number #3. Your real question is why does the dealer network not match. Serial Number mix up ?
These are the mechanical cuts that I mentioned checking. Does the key # 'mechanicals' match you current key that works? 0A-8 in the FSM might help you understand. A is position on the key and B is depth of each cut.
Factory Key Code
