Pulled your LT1 engine yoursellf? Let's talk...
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,710
Likes: 1
From: Green Bay WI
Pulled your LT1 engine yoursellf? Let's talk...
I'm planning on doing a top engine package sometime this spring and the general consensus on the forum is to pull the engine. This seems to be the best way to go considering that you get to detail the engine & compartment as well as having free access to the engine for installing/replacing components.
With that in mind, does anyone have a list of all the things that need to be disconnected/removed in order to do this (besides the obvious like radiator, bell housing bollts, engine mount nuts)? TIA! :)
With that in mind, does anyone have a list of all the things that need to be disconnected/removed in order to do this (besides the obvious like radiator, bell housing bollts, engine mount nuts)? TIA! :)
Drifting
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 1,697
Likes: 1
From: Joliet IL
Re: Pulled your LT1 engine yoursellf? Let's talk... (cprgmr)
don't forget the power steering pump hose. I completely forgot about it when I was pulling the motor out and noticed it when the engine was up in the air. Little more and I would have broken something. Good Luck.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,247
Likes: 2
From: Parker, Colorado, USofA
Re: Pulled your LT1 engine yoursellf? Let's talk... (cprgmr)
If it's anything like an L98, you won't have to remove the radiator. Watch the windshield wiper motor tho. (and if you break it, make sure you order the right part. There's a motor assembly and a CONTROLLER assembly.)
Look to see if the General made things easy for you. E.g.: You don't have to crack upen the A/C system. Usually you can unbolt the compressor and move it outta the way.
Other than that, Measure Twice, cut once and swear like a sailor.
(and budget $200 for F*ckups. :p: )
Look to see if the General made things easy for you. E.g.: You don't have to crack upen the A/C system. Usually you can unbolt the compressor and move it outta the way.
Other than that, Measure Twice, cut once and swear like a sailor.
(and budget $200 for F*ckups. :p: )
Race Director
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 14,165
Likes: 9
Re: Pulled your LT1 engine yoursellf? Let's talk... (cprgmr)
I would remove the radiator and leave the engine alone. Might take the torque arm loose so you can get the desired tilt for getting the cam out, but otherwise leave it in the car. No need to pull the motor completely unless you have the facilities and want to clean up a lot. With the help of a friend I've gone from 0 to having the heads removed in something like 2 or 3 hours. It's not that tough. Of course we've both done it a few times.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,997
Likes: 1
From: Lake Ozark MO
Re: Pulled your LT1 engine yoursellf? Let's talk... (RocketSled)
Remove the fittings by the EGR valve at the back of the manifold (they're actually mounted to the block). Even though I was careful, an errant swing of the assembly cracked a sensor ($42).
The engine should pull out (and go back in) fairly smoothly. Make sure you use an equalizing bar on the hoist to get the proper tilt on the engine. Take your time and it's a one man job. It is a good idea to completely remove the windshield wiper motor (you'll have to pull the screen to do this) rather than just the cover as the shop manual recommends. It gives you a lot more room.
The engine should pull out (and go back in) fairly smoothly. Make sure you use an equalizing bar on the hoist to get the proper tilt on the engine. Take your time and it's a one man job. It is a good idea to completely remove the windshield wiper motor (you'll have to pull the screen to do this) rather than just the cover as the shop manual recommends. It gives you a lot more room.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,784
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta GA
Re: Pulled your LT1 engine yoursellf? Let's talk... (Dan Parker '96)
I say pull the motor.. with it out it will temp you to do more cool stuff! haha... and thenyou can also clean the engine compartment too, clean up some wires if you need to and just straighten everything out... plus if you dont need to drive the car and have the room and tools.. its a good learning experiance....
Just remember, TOOLS are key!
But if you just feel like getting it down and over with, just pull the radi.
Just remember, TOOLS are key!
But if you just feel like getting it down and over with, just pull the radi.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
From: Swansea, IL, USA
Re: Pulled your LT1 engine yoursellf? Let's talk... (cprgmr)
I pulled the tranny too... it was fairly easy, just time consuming... but not really hard to do... were you going to yank the tranny, or leave it? I felt it was easier to leave it connected to the block, and disconnect from the driveshaft... and just 2 easy bolts hold the tranny... Watch out for the brake fluid resovior, I nailed mine while I was swinging out the motor...
I have pictures of me pulling the motor on my web page, you can get an idea of what you will run into... check it out, click '92 rebuild'- lots of pics... the link is below
Good luck
I have pictures of me pulling the motor on my web page, you can get an idea of what you will run into... check it out, click '92 rebuild'- lots of pics... the link is below
Good luck
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 3,215
Likes: 6
From: Tampa Florida
Re: Pulled your LT1 engine yoursellf? Let's talk... (cprgmr)
I have pulled mine twice by myself, using a Happy Hooker (from TPIS) from the passenger side of the car. I remove the ZF first, bellhousing, both cat converters and all the wiring, etc.
Radiator can stay...as well as exhaust manifolds. Pretty easy actually. I also move the compressor and power steering pump to the side-no disconnecting.
The Happy Hooker works like a charm...cost maybe $40...but worth it to me.
The engine mount bolts are thru bolts and are quite easy to loosen and pull once you remove the weight off of them.
Good Luck
:)
Radiator can stay...as well as exhaust manifolds. Pretty easy actually. I also move the compressor and power steering pump to the side-no disconnecting.
The Happy Hooker works like a charm...cost maybe $40...but worth it to me.
The engine mount bolts are thru bolts and are quite easy to loosen and pull once you remove the weight off of them.
Good Luck
:)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 9,713
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From: Sachse Texas
Cruise-In I Veteran
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: Pulled your LT1 engine yoursellf? Let's talk... (No Go)
I have pulled mine myself several times. If all you are doing is a top end kit, then leave the engine in the car. No sense in adding all that extra work with removing the tranny. You can do a top end install by yourself in a weekend, or you can do it in 4 days or many more by pulling the motor.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,159
Likes: 0
Re: Pulled your LT1 engine yoursellf? Let's talk... (No Go)
I have pulled mine twice by myself, using a Happy Hooker (from TPIS) from the passenger side of the car. I remove the ZF first, bellhousing, both cat converters and all the wiring, etc.
Radiator can stay...as well as exhaust manifolds. Pretty easy actually. I also move the compressor and power steering pump to the side-no disconnecting.
The Happy Hooker works like a charm...cost maybe $40...but worth it to me.
The engine mount bolts are thru bolts and are quite easy to loosen and pull once you remove the weight off of them.
Good Luck
:)
Radiator can stay...as well as exhaust manifolds. Pretty easy actually. I also move the compressor and power steering pump to the side-no disconnecting.
The Happy Hooker works like a charm...cost maybe $40...but worth it to me.
The engine mount bolts are thru bolts and are quite easy to loosen and pull once you remove the weight off of them.
Good Luck
:)
heads on and all
the happy hooker sat in the garage
no use for it
Steal dads 67 is a wise man
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 3,215
Likes: 6
From: Tampa Florida
Re: Pulled your LT1 engine yoursellf? Let's talk... (TreyZ28)
Well, first he is asking for help on how to remove an engine from a CORVETTE, not a Camaro...same thing you say, then not much difference between a 1970 Caprice and his 92 then...still a 350 Chevy right???
Second, why don't you give some constructive input rather then criticize someone else's technique. I could have used a chain and bolts on the cylinder head, but with the engine constantly trying to twist, I had concerns over all the delicate items surrounding the engine especially with one person...I would damage something.
Thirdly, if you don't have direct experience, then layoff the postings...it hurts more than helps.
Also, I forgot to mention, I remove the fuel injection lines, rails, injectors as a unit and more them on top of the coolant tank on passenger side. This is where the Happy Hooker fastens...with just 4 8mm bolts! It works. I also had to remove the engine flywheel-the engine just won't fit between the firewall and the front crossmember with it mounted.
Second, why don't you give some constructive input rather then criticize someone else's technique. I could have used a chain and bolts on the cylinder head, but with the engine constantly trying to twist, I had concerns over all the delicate items surrounding the engine especially with one person...I would damage something.
Thirdly, if you don't have direct experience, then layoff the postings...it hurts more than helps.
Also, I forgot to mention, I remove the fuel injection lines, rails, injectors as a unit and more them on top of the coolant tank on passenger side. This is where the Happy Hooker fastens...with just 4 8mm bolts! It works. I also had to remove the engine flywheel-the engine just won't fit between the firewall and the front crossmember with it mounted.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,159
Likes: 0
Re: Pulled your LT1 engine yoursellf? Let's talk... (No Go)
Well, first he is asking for help on how to remove an engine from a CORVETTE, not a Camaro...same thing you say, then not much difference between a 1970 Caprice and his 92 then...still a 350 Chevy right???
Second, why don't you give some constructive input rather then criticize someone else's technique. I could have used a chain and bolts on the cylinder head, but with the engine constantly trying to twist, I had concerns over all the delicate items surrounding the engine especially with one person...I would damage something.
Thirdly, if you don't have direct experience, then layoff the postings...it hurts more than helps.
Also, I forgot to mention, I remove the fuel injection lines, rails, injectors as a unit and more them on top of the coolant tank on passenger side. This is where the Happy Hooker fastens...with just 4 8mm bolts! It works. I also had to remove the engine flywheel-the engine just won't fit between the firewall and the front crossmember with it mounted.
Second, why don't you give some constructive input rather then criticize someone else's technique. I could have used a chain and bolts on the cylinder head, but with the engine constantly trying to twist, I had concerns over all the delicate items surrounding the engine especially with one person...I would damage something.
Thirdly, if you don't have direct experience, then layoff the postings...it hurts more than helps.
Also, I forgot to mention, I remove the fuel injection lines, rails, injectors as a unit and more them on top of the coolant tank on passenger side. This is where the Happy Hooker fastens...with just 4 8mm bolts! It works. I also had to remove the engine flywheel-the engine just won't fit between the firewall and the front crossmember with it mounted.
Well, first he is asking for help on how to remove an engine from a CORVETTE, not a Camaro...same thing you say, then not much difference between a 1970 Caprice and his 92 then...still a 350 Chevy right???
Second, why don't you give some constructive input rather then criticize someone else's technique. I could have used a chain and bolts on the cylinder head, but with the engine constantly trying to twist, I had concerns over all the delicate items surrounding the engine especially with one person...I would damage something.
Thirdly, if you don't have direct experience, then layoff the postings...it hurts more than helps.
Also, I forgot to mention, I remove the fuel injection lines, rails, injectors as a unit and more them on top of the coolant tank on passenger side. This is where the Happy Hooker fastens...with just 4 8mm bolts! It works. I also had to remove the engine flywheel-the engine just won't fit between the firewall and the front crossmember with it mounted.
Second, why don't you give some constructive input rather then criticize someone else's technique. I could have used a chain and bolts on the cylinder head, but with the engine constantly trying to twist, I had concerns over all the delicate items surrounding the engine especially with one person...I would damage something.
Thirdly, if you don't have direct experience, then layoff the postings...it hurts more than helps.
Also, I forgot to mention, I remove the fuel injection lines, rails, injectors as a unit and more them on top of the coolant tank on passenger side. This is where the Happy Hooker fastens...with just 4 8mm bolts! It works. I also had to remove the engine flywheel-the engine just won't fit between the firewall and the front crossmember with it mounted.
1. JUST FOR SAFETY SAKE, dont pull the motor alone. I assume you need to get under there to undo the motor mounts at some point (unless you did that already)
2. I cant imagine it being that hard to pull in a vette.
pop that hood off and you can pull it strait up- no? hey if you can save $50, why not :thumbs:
Wont it still swing with a happy hooker?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 3,215
Likes: 6
From: Tampa Florida
Re: Pulled your LT1 engine yoursellf? Let's talk... (TreyZ28)
For safety's sake? LT1 or a LT4 will not drop on anyone as it will sit on the motor mounts (whether the cross bolt is in or not) and propped against the firewall.
Remove the hood on a C4? You know how heavy it is besides the alignment issues with that piece of fiberglass/SMC. If you do remove it, it would allow the removal of both the engine and trans as a unit, but I would rather not pull the hood. I believe at one time it was the largest single piece of SMC produced.
:rolleyes:
Remove the hood on a C4? You know how heavy it is besides the alignment issues with that piece of fiberglass/SMC. If you do remove it, it would allow the removal of both the engine and trans as a unit, but I would rather not pull the hood. I believe at one time it was the largest single piece of SMC produced.
:rolleyes:
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,631
Likes: 0
From: Union City CA
Re: Pulled your LT1 engine yoursellf? Let's talk... (No Go)
I'm pretty sure the largest must be the Semi Truck Hood, its fiberglass to and the thing is pretty heavy, if it was steel or aluminum nobody could have the power to lift it up :yesnod: (Average person I mean, not no Body builder or something)
Race Director
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 17,101
Likes: 4
From: No more yankee my wankee, the Donger is tired!
Re: Pulled your LT1 engine yoursellf? Let's talk... (No Go)
Go ahead and remove the motor, do a complete engine tear down and rebuild with fresh components.
Tips from my LT5 pull
Do not remove the hood!
Leave the radiator in unless u plan on cleaing it.
Take the harness out with the motor.
Remove fuel lines
Remove heads and intake ( you will need to access the heater wires on the passenger side)
If you have a 6 spd remove the tranny from the bellhousing and pull hte motor out with the housing still on.
MOST IMPORTANT!!!!!!! Make sure you have the proper tools ie: air tools, hoist, good quality jack stands.
Oh and when removing the engine, remove the driver side tire and use the hoist on that side.
Refer to this http://jef2577.tripod.com/
[Modified by Jeffvette, 12:50 AM 1/17/2003]
Tips from my LT5 pull
Do not remove the hood!
Leave the radiator in unless u plan on cleaing it.
Take the harness out with the motor.
Remove fuel lines
Remove heads and intake ( you will need to access the heater wires on the passenger side)
If you have a 6 spd remove the tranny from the bellhousing and pull hte motor out with the housing still on.
MOST IMPORTANT!!!!!!! Make sure you have the proper tools ie: air tools, hoist, good quality jack stands.
Oh and when removing the engine, remove the driver side tire and use the hoist on that side.
Refer to this http://jef2577.tripod.com/
[Modified by Jeffvette, 12:50 AM 1/17/2003]
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,247
Likes: 2
From: Parker, Colorado, USofA
Re: Pulled your LT1 engine yoursellf? Let's talk... (Jeffvette)
From my experience:
REMOVE THE HOOD!
Seriously. Get three or four friends and pull the bastard. You will have SO MUCH more space to work with it's not even funny. By pulling the tranny and motor as a unit, I didn't have to jerry-rig a support for the transmission while the engine was out, and I had greater latitude in pulling the motor
I was dead set against pulling the hood, but had a friend over who had engine swapping experience, I'm really glad experience won out over my feelings. Re-attaching and aligning the hood was done by two people after a third person helped get the bolts started, it's not that big a deal if you go slow. It's not like you're attaching a NEW hood to a NEW location. All of the bits and pieces are already shimmed to have it work.
With the hood off, you can remove the motor _from_the_front_ and you don't have to remove the wheels. (God I love that lift.) But it'll work just as easy if the car's on jack stands.
So what's this Happy Hooker everybody's talking about? I did a google search and the results were iiiiteresting. :eek:
[Modified by RocketSled, 9:00 AM 1/17/2003]
REMOVE THE HOOD!
Seriously. Get three or four friends and pull the bastard. You will have SO MUCH more space to work with it's not even funny. By pulling the tranny and motor as a unit, I didn't have to jerry-rig a support for the transmission while the engine was out, and I had greater latitude in pulling the motor
I was dead set against pulling the hood, but had a friend over who had engine swapping experience, I'm really glad experience won out over my feelings. Re-attaching and aligning the hood was done by two people after a third person helped get the bolts started, it's not that big a deal if you go slow. It's not like you're attaching a NEW hood to a NEW location. All of the bits and pieces are already shimmed to have it work.
With the hood off, you can remove the motor _from_the_front_ and you don't have to remove the wheels. (God I love that lift.) But it'll work just as easy if the car's on jack stands.
So what's this Happy Hooker everybody's talking about? I did a google search and the results were iiiiteresting. :eek:
[Modified by RocketSled, 9:00 AM 1/17/2003]
Race Director
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 17,101
Likes: 4
From: No more yankee my wankee, the Donger is tired!
Re: Pulled your LT1 engine yoursellf? Let's talk... (keekster)
The only reason I suggested removng the heads is that it is so easy on the LT1/4 cars. It's just less to have to deal with when reaching around and unplugging things. On mine had to leave them on.
As far as the hood, it is a major PITA to get realigned. I've done it before, and have done it on a C5 which is just as bad, even though it's not as heavy.
Trust me there is enough room to leave the hood on and not have to worry about hitting the motor on anything.
As far as the hood, it is a major PITA to get realigned. I've done it before, and have done it on a C5 which is just as bad, even though it's not as heavy.
Trust me there is enough room to leave the hood on and not have to worry about hitting the motor on anything.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,710
Likes: 1
From: Green Bay WI
Re: Pulled your LT1 engine yoursellf? Let's talk... (cprgmr)
Hmmm... after reading some of the replies, I'm starting to waffle on the whole engine pulling idea. Here's why I was inquiring about pulling the engine:
- Access to the engine bay for a good cleaning
- Much easier to remove/install/degree cam (heck, the engine has to get lifted to clear the front cross-member anyways)
- Giving the engine block a new coat of black paint (not really necessary I suppose)
- Ease of removing/installing other parts (oil pan studs, gaskets, etc).
For those of you who used the hooker, I assume that it mounts to the top of the intake (after you remove the fuel rail assembly) right? Then it's just a matter of using the cherry picker to lift it out at an angle.
That's a bummer that you have to remove the flywheel. I would prefer not to do that if I can help it at all. :(
- Access to the engine bay for a good cleaning
- Much easier to remove/install/degree cam (heck, the engine has to get lifted to clear the front cross-member anyways)
- Giving the engine block a new coat of black paint (not really necessary I suppose)
- Ease of removing/installing other parts (oil pan studs, gaskets, etc).
For those of you who used the hooker, I assume that it mounts to the top of the intake (after you remove the fuel rail assembly) right? Then it's just a matter of using the cherry picker to lift it out at an angle.
That's a bummer that you have to remove the flywheel. I would prefer not to do that if I can help it at all. :(