Post ZF6 install problems
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 38
Likes: 7
From: San Diego
Post ZF6 install problems
First off this is a 1989 with an L98. The AT was a 700r4. I’ve since then put in a ZF6 and Dana 44 with 3.54 gearing.
Ok got the car started! No leaks as of yet. I ran it for about 45 minutes to let the battery juice up and for the coolant to circulate because I had to redo it.
Now for the problems:
1. My power seats don’t work. They’re in their correct spots. Not sure why those don’t work. I didn’t touch any of the wires regarding the seats and it’s controls. The windows and mirrors work though.
2. Brake lights are on 24/7. I had to remove the battery for them to turn off. Not sure what I wired for them to be on when my foot isn’t on the pedal. For the auto shifter harness I jumpered the clutch safety which is pins E and F. Also jumpered A and B which is the park/neutral wires. Reverse light is routed to the transmission.
3. Not too much of a problem but my gears grind when putting the car in gear which means I need to bleed the clutch more.
Anyone know what could be causing the power seat and brake light errors?
Ok got the car started! No leaks as of yet. I ran it for about 45 minutes to let the battery juice up and for the coolant to circulate because I had to redo it.
Now for the problems:
1. My power seats don’t work. They’re in their correct spots. Not sure why those don’t work. I didn’t touch any of the wires regarding the seats and it’s controls. The windows and mirrors work though.
2. Brake lights are on 24/7. I had to remove the battery for them to turn off. Not sure what I wired for them to be on when my foot isn’t on the pedal. For the auto shifter harness I jumpered the clutch safety which is pins E and F. Also jumpered A and B which is the park/neutral wires. Reverse light is routed to the transmission.
3. Not too much of a problem but my gears grind when putting the car in gear which means I need to bleed the clutch more.
Anyone know what could be causing the power seat and brake light errors?
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,925
Likes: 441
From: Albuquerque NM
Just theorizing!
I assume you took apart the center console area to access the trans tunnel for the install. This meant moving if not unplugging the wires that go from the dash to the center console area then energize the power seats. Perhaps something is just loose in there?
Pull the seat and multimeter the plug to see if it is even getting what I assume is either a constant 12V or at least an accessory on switched 12V
Do you have a FSM? The wiring diagrams are indispensable
The brake lights being stuck on I imagine is the result of the custom wiring you did when you swapped in the 3 pedal assembly.
Good luck!
I assume you took apart the center console area to access the trans tunnel for the install. This meant moving if not unplugging the wires that go from the dash to the center console area then energize the power seats. Perhaps something is just loose in there?
Pull the seat and multimeter the plug to see if it is even getting what I assume is either a constant 12V or at least an accessory on switched 12V
Do you have a FSM? The wiring diagrams are indispensable
The brake lights being stuck on I imagine is the result of the custom wiring you did when you swapped in the 3 pedal assembly.
Good luck!
Pro
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 655
Likes: 164
From: Vancouver Washington
Just agreeing with yakmastermax.
I recently finished my ZF6 install as well. My car is originally 4+3 so I didn't have the pedal issue that you had to deal with.
You will just have to go back and check everything you touched. I know, a pain in the butt. I suggest unplugging and reconnecting all of the electric connectors that were disturbed during your transmission upgrade.
Congrats on your conversion. Not many would take on such an ordeal. I know how many hours I put in mine.
Sooooooooo worth the effort.
I recently finished my ZF6 install as well. My car is originally 4+3 so I didn't have the pedal issue that you had to deal with.
You will just have to go back and check everything you touched. I know, a pain in the butt. I suggest unplugging and reconnecting all of the electric connectors that were disturbed during your transmission upgrade.
Congrats on your conversion. Not many would take on such an ordeal. I know how many hours I put in mine.
Sooooooooo worth the effort.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 38
Likes: 7
From: San Diego
Just theorizing!
I assume you took apart the center console area to access the trans tunnel for the install. This meant moving if not unplugging the wires that go from the dash to the center console area then energize the power seats. Perhaps something is just loose in there?
Pull the seat and multimeter the plug to see if it is even getting what I assume is either a constant 12V or at least an accessory on switched 12V
Do you have a FSM? The wiring diagrams are indispensable
The brake lights being stuck on I imagine is the result of the custom wiring you did when you swapped in the 3 pedal assembly.
Good luck!
I assume you took apart the center console area to access the trans tunnel for the install. This meant moving if not unplugging the wires that go from the dash to the center console area then energize the power seats. Perhaps something is just loose in there?
Pull the seat and multimeter the plug to see if it is even getting what I assume is either a constant 12V or at least an accessory on switched 12V
Do you have a FSM? The wiring diagrams are indispensable
The brake lights being stuck on I imagine is the result of the custom wiring you did when you swapped in the 3 pedal assembly.
Good luck!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 38
Likes: 7
From: San Diego
Just agreeing with yakmastermax.
I recently finished my ZF6 install as well. My car is originally 4+3 so I didn't have the pedal issue that you had to deal with.
You will just have to go back and check everything you touched. I know, a pain in the butt. I suggest unplugging and reconnecting all of the electric connectors that were disturbed during your transmission upgrade.
Congrats on your conversion. Not many would take on such an ordeal. I know how many hours I put in mine.
Sooooooooo worth the effort.
I recently finished my ZF6 install as well. My car is originally 4+3 so I didn't have the pedal issue that you had to deal with.
You will just have to go back and check everything you touched. I know, a pain in the butt. I suggest unplugging and reconnecting all of the electric connectors that were disturbed during your transmission upgrade.
Congrats on your conversion. Not many would take on such an ordeal. I know how many hours I put in mine.
Sooooooooo worth the effort.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 38
Likes: 7
From: San Diego
Alright after further trouble shooting, the cars rear main seal was put on incorrectly. I don’t know what I did wrong. Reading through forums and watching videos made me think that I should install it dry. Not sure if that’s the reason why it’s leaking.
Unfortunately I’ll have to take the transmission/bellhousing/clutch/flywheel off but it will go by faster now that I know exactly what I have to do.
As for my seats, they still don’t work. I’ll check grounds, fuses etc once the car is patched up again.
Unfortunately I’ll have to take the transmission/bellhousing/clutch/flywheel off but it will go by faster now that I know exactly what I have to do.
As for my seats, they still don’t work. I’ll check grounds, fuses etc once the car is patched up again.
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Pro
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 655
Likes: 164
From: Vancouver Washington
I always wipe the seals with grease on the first install.
Your seat power connector at the center console is where I would start. With only two connectors to check it's always the most difficult to get to that is the issue.........
Your seat power connector at the center console is where I would start. With only two connectors to check it's always the most difficult to get to that is the issue.........
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 551
From: Seattle Washington
By unbolting the Clutch Cover on the front of the Bellhousing You should be able to verify if the Rear Seal is leaking. I have had a a couple of leaks that "looked" like it was the rear seal when it was not. And after You have removed everything only to find nothing wrong with the seal ( been there) you will want to double check first.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 38
Likes: 7
From: San Diego
By unbolting the Clutch Cover on the front of the Bellhousing You should be able to verify if the Rear Seal is leaking. I have had a a couple of leaks that "looked" like it was the rear seal when it was not. And after You have removed everything only to find nothing wrong with the seal ( been there) you will want to double check first.
Another thing to point out, I found a spring inside the last seal. I damaged it while taking it out. Although the one I bought never came with one, should I have that spring inside the seal?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 38
Likes: 7
From: San Diego
I’m gonna blast the connectors with air and see if any dust from cutting the transmission hole was the reason. If not I’ll have to keep digging.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 38
Likes: 7
From: San Diego
I’m not familiar with the Chinese wall. There is minor leakage in the driver side valve cover near the firewall though. Not sure if that’s what you’re referring to. I took the transmission and bellhousing off and the rear seal had residue of oil on it.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 38
Likes: 7
From: San Diego
Oh I see. I do see oil coming from that area in the back of the block. Although when I took a look at the rear seal it was indeed bad. So I guess my next project will be redoing is the China wall and my valve covers lol.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 551
From: Seattle Washington
The Sealant which should be RTV in the above picture is not tall enough unless you know for sure the Intake fits low and tight to the Block. There is one or two Oil Pressure senders here that are notorious for leaking. Mine was leaking internally and the weatherproof Plug kept the Oil in it would travel down the wire until it found a break in the insulation. That one took a wile to figure out.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 38
Likes: 7
From: San Diego
Update:
First off, there are no leaks. So I’ve done the rear main and oil pan gasket correctly this time.
2. My seats still don’t work. I’ve cleaned the connectors up so I’ll have to keep digging at it.
3. I took it on little test drive. 2nd and 3rd gears grind. It’ll go into gear but it’ll still grind. 1st, 4th and 5th don’t grind. I haven’t gotten high enough speed to hit 6th. When I hit the right rpm 3rd gear doesn’t grind. I’ve bled my clutch to the point of no bubbles. New master and slave btw. I’ve filled the trans with the correct amount of penzoil syncromesh. I have a feeling the synchros are bad.
4. The car will stall when coasting on neutral. I can get it to turn on again after pumping the clutch. Could this be fuel issue?
First off, there are no leaks. So I’ve done the rear main and oil pan gasket correctly this time.
2. My seats still don’t work. I’ve cleaned the connectors up so I’ll have to keep digging at it.
3. I took it on little test drive. 2nd and 3rd gears grind. It’ll go into gear but it’ll still grind. 1st, 4th and 5th don’t grind. I haven’t gotten high enough speed to hit 6th. When I hit the right rpm 3rd gear doesn’t grind. I’ve bled my clutch to the point of no bubbles. New master and slave btw. I’ve filled the trans with the correct amount of penzoil syncromesh. I have a feeling the synchros are bad.
4. The car will stall when coasting on neutral. I can get it to turn on again after pumping the clutch. Could this be fuel issue?
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 579
From: Mays Landing, NJ
Question, does your power locks work? If not check one of the 30 breakers in fuse panel. When the power locks and seats stopped working in 91 I had it ended up being wire in the console running up to the seat switches causes a short. In that case though I could hear the breaker opening and closing. If you had console apart it may be worth checking/
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 38
Likes: 7
From: San Diego
Question, does your power locks work? If not check one of the 30 breakers in fuse panel. When the power locks and seats stopped working in 91 I had it ended up being wire in the console running up to the seat switches causes a short. In that case though I could hear the breaker opening and closing. If you had console apart it may be worth checking/
As for your breaker opening and closing, what does that mean? You can hear it? Im not sure about the wires. They look fine to me. What should I look for?
Also if I were to buy another 30a breaker, where could I buy one?