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I’ve checked all my 30 breakers. And they all have a brown goo on them. The one that is for the seats and mirrors is really hot to the touch. I should probably replace that right?
As for your breaker opening and closing, what does that mean? You can hear it? Im not sure about the wires. They look fine to me. What should I look for?
Also if I were to buy another 30a breaker, where could I buy one?
The breakers will make a clicking noise because they trip and then try to reset if you have a dead short and in addition will get hot to the touch. Normally you would not need to replace breaker, but if needed auto parts store has them,
Also, you didn't say if the power locks work. They are on the same breaker.
2. My seats still don’t work. I’ve cleaned the connectors up so I’ll have to keep digging at it.
How many connectors do you have for your seats? 1 or 2?
Originally Posted by Markbottle
3. I took it on little test drive. 2nd and 3rd gears grind. It’ll go into gear but it’ll still grind. 1st, 4th and 5th don’t grind. I haven’t gotten high enough speed to hit 6th. When I hit the right rpm 3rd gear doesn’t grind. I’ve bled my clutch to the point of no bubbles. New master and slave btw. I’ve filled the trans with the correct amount of penzoil syncromesh. I have a feeling the synchros are bad.
Did you have any knowledge on the transmission of how it shifted before you purchased it. 2nd and 3rd are rough on synchros especially for those who drag race or don't know how to shift.
Originally Posted by Markbottle
4. The car will stall when coasting on neutral. I can get it to turn on again after pumping the clutch. Could this be fuel issue?
Going from an auto to manual, did you update the tune to account for this? is your VSS hooked up and functioning?
The breakers will make a clicking noise because they trip and then try to reset if you have a dead short and in addition will get hot to the touch. Normally you would not need to replace breaker, but if needed auto parts store has them,
Also, you didn't say if the power locks work. They are on the same breaker.
My power locks don’t work. I might as well change the breaker because it’s very hot to the touch. I’ll try to hear if the breaker starts clicking as well.
How many connectors do you have for your seats? 1 or 2?
Did you have any knowledge on the transmission of how it shifted before you purchased it. 2nd and 3rd are rough on synchros especially for those who drag race or don't know how to shift.
Going from an auto to manual, did you update the tune to account for this? is your VSS hooked up and functioning?
I have one connector on each seat. They aren’t the sport seats.
Unfortunately, the only details I had on the transmission is that it came off a 93 with around 40k miles. I also had it shipped across the country. It came with everything else like bellhousing, driveshaft, c-beam etc.
As for stalling in the middle of the road, I’ve driven it a couple more times while trying to rpm shift. The stalling has stopped. It might be due to the computer relearning. When it was still an auto, I stalled a couple times while in park. The rpm’s would go to around 500, I’d push the gas just a tad and then the rpm’s went all the way down to 0.
My vss sensor is hooked up. I’ve yet to recalibrate it or to check my speed on the dash vs on my phone.
My power locks don’t work. I might as well change the breaker because it’s very hot to the touch. I’ll try tocover opened hear if the breaker starts clicking as well.
If power locks and seats don't work changing out the breaker will not help. Sounds like you have a dead short in hot wire going to locks or seats. My bet is wires running to seat switch(s) which run through center console. If you had center console cover removed you may have pinched a wire when putting cover back in place.
The issue with your stalling is a different issue.
Last edited by CorvetteRules; Apr 10, 2023 at 07:00 AM.
Reason: Addition
the ECU bin file has a flag for auto or manual transmission. You need to checkmark that. There is also a variable called idling maximum speed. So beyond that I’ve noticed the rpm actually goes slightly higher not lower.
you also have vss, I have 4006.96 for my zf6 black tag, plus vss instrument divisor 0. and a flag magnetic vss - set.
there are parameters for automatic that the ecu might try to interpret and messes the coast. you will eventually need to compare a manual vs automatic bin file or upload the manual bin plus slight changes but Idk, I would do it after sorting out all issues. Try to get the FSM for the manual car, you will need it regardless of what you need now, I got mine on a cd from zip corvette
If power locks and seats don't work changing out the breaker will not help. Sounds like you have a dead short in hot wire going to locks or seats. My bet is wires running to seat switch(s) which run through center console. If you had center console cover removed you may have pinched a wire when putting cover back in place.
The issue with your stalling is a different issue.
I met with Lawton Ferreira at Top Flight corvette here in Miramar(really cool guy btw). He told me the pins on the connectors could be misplaced during the removal. I’m gonna take a look at each one. If it isn’t that he told me to come back to him for help.
Originally Posted by Nilak
the ECU bin file has a flag for auto or manual transmission. You need to checkmark that. There is also a variable called idling maximum speed. So beyond that I’ve noticed the rpm actually goes slightly higher not lower.
you also have vss, I have 4006.96 for my zf6 black tag, plus vss instrument divisor 0. and a flag magnetic vss - set.
there are parameters for automatic that the ecu might try to interpret and messes the coast. you will eventually need to compare a manual vs automatic bin file or upload the manual bin plus slight changes but Idk, I would do it after sorting out all issues. Try to get the FSM for the manual car, you will need it regardless of what you need now, I got mine on a cd from zip corvette
yeah I was gonna recalibrate the ecu and such after the problems have been hammered out. I’ll do that way later in the future.
As for my synchros, I spoke to Bill Boudreau or who some call ZfDoc. Quoted me at at least 3600 for my 2nd and 3rd. Luckily for me my trans parts list number ends in a 046 so they still have 2nd gear parts. Soon the zf will be at his shop.
You've driven this after the ZF install how many miles and Pennzoil being used for lube? I believe you might be maybe jumping to the conclusion your ZF needs serious repairs. Check everything again - EVERYTHING ! Consider maybe this fill as a flush and after assessing the entire build do a fill with maybe the same or a different lube. Maybe consider a few hundred miles on this fill and then the change of?
How many miles were thought to be on this ZF. What is the model of this ZF? I'm not going to search threads looking.
**** I recall you mentioning using a later pedal assembly and having to 'modify' it. You've a shifting issue? How confident you've got a 'correct & proper' clutch master push rod length in use?
What I've found on the ZFDoc page is if you install a normal clutch it may judder and in that case, several launches should fix it after initial bed in (don't remember mentioning bedding in). Also the springs may vibrate because of resonance, at low rpm moderate-high load. My gearbox has these issues. You can try double clutch to see how it changes the shift quality unless your transmission is now out of the car
You've driven this after the ZF install how many miles and Pennzoil being used for lube? I believe you might be maybe jumping to the conclusion your ZF needs serious repairs. Check everything again - EVERYTHING ! Consider maybe this fill as a flush and after assessing the entire build do a fill with maybe the same or a different lube. Maybe consider a few hundred miles on this fill and then the change of?
How many miles were thought to be on this ZF. What is the model of this ZF? I'm not going to search threads looking.
**** I recall you mentioning using a later pedal assembly and having to 'modify' it. You've a shifting issue? How confident you've got a 'correct & proper' clutch master push rod length in use?
A flush after the clutch break in period might be a good shot in the dark.
The transmission has around 70k miles on it.
The pedal assembly came from a 93 car. I had removed a piece of the firewall in the interior to get the pedal assembly to fit. It was plastic with some insulation on the back. I have the correct master and slave in. As for the pushrod length, it could be that the removal of the plastic/insulation piece isn’t giving the pushrod the right amount of displacement. It wouldn’t make sense though because the assembly bolt holes that mount up to the dashs aluminum support line up perfectly.
Update: Dug around under the dash and found that a connector had burnt through its protective rubber. I had left this alone during the rewiring of the shifter harness.
Is this part of the shifter harness? Should I keep it disconnected? The car cranks still if I keep it disconnected.
The other connector it’s attached to has orange/black-stripe wire on the A pin and black/white-stripe on B pin. The burnt connector has a full black wire on the A pin and black/baby blue-stripe on B pin.
Edit: Power seats and power locks work after disconnecting that burnt connector
Last edited by Markbottle; Apr 18, 2023 at 08:17 PM.
