Is it possible for the cold start injector to be leaking while the car is off. The car Idles really high when first started. The longer it sits the worse it is and the longer it takes to come down to normal idle.

On start up I've got a cloud of smoke that smells like gas and already determined that it is an injector, just wondering if it could be the cold start or not. Seems like this started happenning when I had the manifold apart and cleaned everything.

 

Does it do this if the car is stone cold, or only if it is already warm and you try to start it? I would grab a fuel pressure gauge for about $30 and start doing some tests. :)

 

Put a fp guage on your rail and see how long the FP stay up, if it goes down it is usually one of two think, your injectors or the fuel pump check ball. (it also could be a gas leak or bad regulator) If it stays up you can elimate that problem. I had a leaky injector and I lost my all my fuel pressure in 20 minutes, when I replace all of the injectors I lost about 20 psi in a day.

 

I guess I need to break down and get a guage, been meaning to anyway.
It does it both when it is hot and cold but seems to be worse when it is cold.
About the only time it doesn't do it is when I've been driving the car, turn it off to run into a store, and then turn it right back on, then sometimes it won't do it.

With the guage I should have what psi when the car is off and what psi when it is on. And I assume that when the car is off it should stay the same for long periods of time, right.

 

When you turn just the key on (not the engine) the fuel pump should prime the system to somewhere around 42psi and stay there when the pump turns off.

 

Any of the injectors can leak and bleed fuel into the manifold. The cold start injector is often overlooked. To truly determine if the pressure is bleeding off through and injector, you could pinch off the feed and return fuel lines to the fuel rail and then check for pressure bleed off.

 

I found this in an archive search I did a while back. I don't know who the author is. It's a good step-by-step for figuring out where/if you have a leaking problem. The only part I don't know how to do is the first one, (check the cold start injector). I bought a fuel pressure gauge from Pep Boys for $35 as I recall and the test was pretty easy to do.

Ron

Diagnosis should begin by performing the "Cold Start Valve" test listed in section 6E3 (Chart A9) of the appropriate Service Manual to determine if the cold start injector is functioning properly. If not, the appropriate repairs should be made.
If the cold start injector system is found to be functioning normally, the following procedure should be used to determine whether a fuel pump check valve, fuel pressure regulator, or leaking injectors are the cause of the long cranks.
1. Install a fuel pressure gage on the fuel rail schraeder valve, (such as that supplied in the injector plugging test kit).

2. Pressurize the system by cycling the key on for a few seconds.
3. Turn the key off, and time the pressure reduction on the gage. (Initial pressure should be approximately 40 pounds per square inch (PSI), note the time it takes for a pressure drop of twenty PSI to occur. If the time exceeds twenty minutes, check valve, regulator, and fuel injectors are free of excessive leakage and the Service Manual should be be referred to for other causes of long cranks.)

4. If the system pressure is reduced by 20 PSI or more in 20 minutes or less, then one or more of the three components mentioned are suspect.

5. Turn the key on for a few seconds to repressurize the system and clamp the rubber portion of the supply line closed using a pair of vise grips and a shop towel (to protect the fuel line from damage by the vise grips.)

6. Turn the key off, and again note the time it takes for a reduction of twenty PSI. If the time is a lot longer than the time noted in step 3, then replacement of the fuel pump is indicated.
7. If the times are similar, then repeat steps 5 and 6, only this time clamp the return line instead of the supply line. Once again note the time it takes for a twenty PSI pressure drop. If the time is a lot longer than previously, a faulty pressure regulator is indicated. If the time remains shorter than twenty minutes, leaking injectors are suspected. To confirm that there are leaking injectors, raise the fuel rail slightly out of the inlet manifold without disconnecting any fuel lines and place a small napkin or piece of paper under each injector. Pressurize the system by cycling the key on for a few seconds then turn the key off and allow to sit for about 10 minutes. If a leaking injector is indicated by one or more drops of fuel on any of the napkins, all eight injectors should be replaced with service injector, P/N 10108481.