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Hey guys, I'm looking to replace the brake pads and rotors in my 1996 LT1 Corvette. I have the J55 option so I was wondering if anyone knows if it's any different than a normal brake pad/rotor replacement. I read somewhere that the J55 front brake rotor is slightly bigger than normal stock ones but I'm not entirely sure. Does anyone happen to know a good set/kit of replacement brake pads and rotors? Also, I'm probably going to try replacing the C-clips and brake pin while doing it, so if anyone knows where I can find myself some replacement parts, do tell!
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Part numbers are below.
F: CT412
R: CT413
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Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
Email: sales@ampdautosport.com
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Pads will be 412 and 413 shapes, regardless of brand. How do you use your car? For purely street driving - and even autocross use - I had good luck with Power Stop z26 pads. They are a little more expensive than store brand organic pads but they have a little higher heat tolerance and they make minimal dust. For track use or even extremely "spirited" street driving for extended periods of time, we need to start talking about more track-focused options that also get noisier, dustier, and more abrasive to the rotors.
For rotors, avoid drilled and slotted BS. Just get plain Centric replacement rotors, or if you can find them, the Centrics that have been cryogenically treated actually do seem to resist warpage better (they usually have "CRY" in the part number).
When I ordered rotors, I had got some from Tire Rack. For the front, I went with the "high carbon" version which I believe is supposed to be tougher than the regular version. I did put on a NOS OEM pad for the front that I bought off of someone thinking they'd be really good, but the braking hasn't been that great and got worse over time.
So plan to replace the front pads with something else. Not sure yet on which pad, but thinking of trying to go with a GG rated pad that is $70 or cheaper. Have read some people in general talk about the Akebono Performance Ultra Premium, though not much on Akebono has turned up when searching the C4 section.
My main criteria on a pad is quick stopping power. Something grippy in case the person in front of me does a panic stop.
Just curious-why no slotted or drilled rotors? I have a '95 LT1 that I just bought a year ago and it's my first Corvette. It has 81k original miles and is in great shape for an almost 30-year-old vehicle. I have a notoriously heavy foot, and over the years brake rotors have been my Achilles heel. Once I have move back to the states and it's my daily driver, I'm sure new rotors will be in my future. I don't go to the track; I just love a spirited drive-wherever I am. Any input would be appreciated. Also, what is a good brand for stopping power, anti-warpiness(I made that word up) and longevity?
Just curious-why no slotted or drilled rotors? I have a '95 LT1 that I just bought a year ago and it's my first Corvette. It has 81k original miles and is in great shape for an almost 30-year-old vehicle. I have a notoriously heavy foot, and over the years brake rotors have been my Achilles heel. Once I have move back to the states and it's my daily driver, I'm sure new rotors will be in my future. I don't go to the track; I just love a spirited drive-wherever I am. Any input would be appreciated. Also, what is a good brand for stopping power, anti-warpiness(I made that word up) and longevity?
From what I know, the drill holes and slots reduce the longevity of the rotor if not used in heavy duty/spirit manner. The milling process for the holes/slots can also leave more surface imperfections which will bite into your pads and wear them out faster. I'm pretty sure theres many other reasons why they aren't always optimal for daily driving, but I'd say it wouldnt be too bad to upgrade your brakes to drilled/slotted rotors if you drive your corvette with spunk on the road. I seem to have a lead brick foot too, so I'm probably gunna go with the Powerstop Z23 or Z26 kit mentioned earlier in the thread. I just wonder if they contribute anything to the brake noise. Even if they do, its no biggie
From what I know, the drill holes and slots reduce the longevity of the rotor if not used in heavy duty/spirit manner. The milling process for the holes/slots can also leave more surface imperfections which will bite into your pads and wear them out faster. I'm pretty sure theres many other reasons why they aren't always optimal for daily driving, but I'd say it wouldnt be too bad to upgrade your brakes to drilled/slotted rotors if you drive your corvette with spunk on the road. I seem to have a lead brick foot too, so I'm probably gunna go with the Powerstop Z23 or Z26 kit mentioned earlier in the thread. I just wonder if they contribute anything to the brake noise. Even if they do, its no biggie
Are Powerstop Z23 pads good for just driving around town and going on the interstate? Do they have good cold bite compared to semi-metallic? I believe those Powerstops are ceramic, so not sure if they eat rotors?
Pads will be 412 and 413 shapes, regardless of brand. How do you use your car? For purely street driving - and even autocross use - I had good luck with Power Stop z26 pads. They are a little more expensive than store brand organic pads but they have a little higher heat tolerance and they make minimal dust. For track use or even extremely "spirited" street driving for extended periods of time, we need to start talking about more track-focused options that also get noisier, dustier, and more abrasive to the rotors.
For rotors, avoid drilled and slotted BS. Just get plain Centric replacement rotors, or if you can find them, the Centrics that have been cryogenically treated actually do seem to resist warpage better (they usually have "CRY" in the part number).
How do Powerstop Z26 pads compare to say semi-metallics or Akebono high end pads? I've always used semi-metallic. And I want real good bite when cold, i.e. driving around town and the person in front of me does a panic stop, so I can stop within a food or so. Right now my AC Delco pads, if I try a power stop, it takes like at least 6 feet to stop.
I recommend no slots or holes in rotors because they don't really provide any advantage you can use on the street (maybe not even on the track, but that's another discussion) and because they can lead to more stress risers and cracks (especially the holes). They also make it impossible to resurface the rotors. IME, the cryogenic treatment of a plain rotor really helps to prevent warping.
I ran the PowerStop z26 pads on my C4 for quite a while for both street and autocross duty. They did well for both of those uses, and keep in mind I was putting a lot more power and grip through them in autocross use than a stock C4 on street tires, so those pads got a lot more energy through them than a stock C4 on regular street tires. I believe the z23 pads are the same pad compound but the backing plate is different. The z26 handles more heat. That's why I used it. They have pretty good and consistent bite at all temps, even when they started smelling of overheating (really hard autocross runs nearly back to back on a very hot day, with a brake-intensive course). Since they are ceramic, they also minimize dust, and they are pretty kind to rotors. They are also quiet. These days, I think ceramic makes the most sense for street use. Semi-metallic is still important for track use, where loads and temps are way higher.
I'll ask you the same question I ask anyone who says they want any iteration of "real good bite when cold": can you lock your brakes now (or get into ABS)? If so, you have all the bit you need. If not, something is probably wrong with your brake system. If you can already lock your tires, you can't stop any faster with more bite - you can only lock them more easily. This actually makes it harder to modulate brakes in any high-performance stopping situation (intentional or emergency). It also makes it harder for the ABS to modulate braking. I can assure you that I could lock the brakes on my C4 with stock pads or the z26 pads, even with super-grippy 315/35/17 Hoosier A7 tires. I can also assure you that if you're tooling around town at, say 35mph, and you have to panic stop; it will take more than 1ft or 6ft to stop. It will take you more than that just to react and get your foot on the brake pedal. If you really want a grabby brake pad, then I think you'll need to look at semi-metallic again. Based on info I get from others, maybe Hawk has a compound you'd like (but people usually talk about their grabbiness as a bug, not a feature). The Carbotech autocross compound (AX6, if I recall correctly?) is pretty grabby. But it's also very dusty and noisy, and I think you'll find that to be a common feature of really grabby pads.
I think I'm probably going to go with Raybestos Street Performance semi-metallic pads. I was wanting some pads better than $30, but didn't want to spend $300 for a front/rear set of pads. I got a hold of someone at Raybestos who said those pads were "FF" pads and were a performance pad. I've seen almost no reviews of those pads other than someone on here recommending them. So since you can't really find much info or reviews of semi-metallic pads that are under $100 an axle, then it's like shooting in the dark. But I guess I'll go with the Raybestos.
I wish Hawk or Carbotech made a set of front/rear pads that were around $120 or less.
I got the Raybestos sp412xph front pads in. And I think they are defective. Most of the claw things on the back are loose where you can spin them and wobble them a little. I think their machine just didn't stake the center pin all the way. Not sure if I'll try to send these back and swap them out as it was an online purchase.