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Hey guys! I've previously owned an 89 coupe and decided I wanted to a later model C4. I need some advice on the one I went to drive yesterday, as I'm still getting my feet wet into the corvette world
Found a someone local selling a beautiful freshly painted 96' coupe. Automatic, 89k miles, interior is in amazing condition- seems to have been redone. new tires & brakes. This is what the owner texted me "Has lots of performance parts, and this Corvette is fast. Has headers with complete Magna Flo Exhaust, has a great exhaust sound, but not loud like traditional headers. Has a performance chip with a stall converter, so it has incredible highway speed".
So I go to drive the car and there are a few things I noticed when I punched the car. There was almost a slight hesitation with the acceleration. Perhaps a third to a half of a second. Which was completely different than my 89' where I would feel the torque immediately. although, it didn't have much effect on the driving it was still a little perceptible to me. I ran the codes with my scanner as the check engine light came on with the codes P0171 and P0441.
Owner does not know much about the mods/chip as he bought it from an old lady at an estate auction to flip. (He stated the previous tires were undriveable) Doesn't really know a whole lot about corvettes either.
I really like the car and the price isnt terrible just a hair above 11k, which I negotiated down to before seeing the car. However, I want to know what I could possibly be getting into with the tune and mods that have been done affecting the 02 and error codes. Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated.
High stall torque converters give the impression there is a lack of initial power. Because they fully engage at a higher RPM, the driver may think there is a lack of tip in power. However, that's actually what it is supposed to do. The higher the stall rating, the more you'll get that lack of initial power at tip in. A stock torque converter engage at about 1500 RPMs, which makes a huge difference compared to just a very mild 2500 converter.
As for the other mods, neither the exhaust or the chip are big modifications. There are many ways a chip can hurt a car. However, is this is the standard canned tune chip, then all is good.
My rule of thumb is, if the engine block is still factory sealed, meaning only peripherals or "bolt ons" have been done, then the likelihood is all is good, of proper care was done.
As for the codes... Figure out what's exactly is involved in fixing them and go from there.
By the way, your codes deal with a lean condition and EVAP system. Most likely the cause is something smallish, but figuring it out may be the bigger challenge.
EDIT: One last thing...96s don't have chips. They are flash programmed just like modern vehicles. This is a bit concerning to me because the programmer has to be knowledgeable or the car would run like crap at best... Breaks stuff worst case.
By the way, your codes deal with a lean condition and EVAP system. Most likely the cause is something smallish, but figuring it out may be the bigger challenge.
EDIT: One last thing...96s don't have chips. They are flash programmed just like modern vehicles. This is a bit concerning to me because the programmer has to be knowledgeable or the car would run like crap at best... Breaks stuff worst case.
Really appreciate the knowledge. I'm assuming the flash programming can be undone if needed then? & that it is what the owner thinks is a high stall converter?
The driving was very nice, way smoother than expected coming from an 89.
Yes, the computer can be flashed to factory specs with the proper equipment.
To be honest, the guy probably has no clue what really has been done to the car.
Have you looked at the engine bay? Look for wire splicing, things that have been removed or out of place. Also, look for nuts and bolts with a worn ou t or chewed up head... That would mean it was removed at some point in the past. Particularly important around the intake and heads. It would signify the engine has been opened up.
Yes, the computer can be flashed to factory specs with the proper equipment.
To be honest, the guy probably has no clue what really has been done to the car.
Have you looked at the engine bay? Look for wire splicing, things that have been removed or out of place. Also, look for nuts and bolts with a worn ou t or chewed up head... That would mean it was removed at some point in the past. Particularly important around the intake and heads. It would signify the engine has been opened up.
Gotcha. I did get this picture, but I'm going to have to take another look.
Buying a car with an unknown history is always a bit of a gamble. But as above, bolt ons are pretty common and not too much worry.
I'm concerned about the flipper who bought it from a little old lady. Hmmm....
It may be worth having the car inspected. Put it up on a lift and pop a tire off. You can learn a lot from getting under the car. Have you pulled a CarFax? The new paint makes me ask the question....why? There are plenty of 96s that have original paint that look great. Plus white is typically a color that is resistant to sun fading as opposed to a darker color. Might be covering a hit?
Buying a car with an unknown history is always a bit of a gamble. But as above, bolt ons are pretty common and not too much worry.
I'm concerned about the flipper who bought it from a little old lady. Hmmm....
It may be worth having the car inspected. Put it up on a lift and pop a tire off. You can learn a lot from getting under the car. Have you pulled a CarFax? The new paint makes me ask the question....why? There are plenty of 96s that have original paint that look great. Plus white is typically a color that is resistant to sun fading as opposed to a darker color. Might be covering a hit?
Thats a great point on the white. I inspected the exterior meticulously, crawled under and checked everything out. Nothing concerning but maybe Ill remove the tires and check.
I did run the vin through 5 different sites. Did the carfax this morning. Accident free, however there is "structural damage". Only disclosed info is that the tires were really bad and I'm not sure if it has to do with that. But now I'll definitely need to have someone check out the frame for me.
Even if it checks out okay and everything I think I'm going to negotiate the price down even more from 11.5 with the structural damage as I'm reading more into it.
Accident free, however there is "structural damage".
Well, that explains a lot. To me "structural damage" means bent frame. You can only do frame damage if the car was in an accident, dropped from a height or went off-roading, through a ditch and at high speed. The new paint coupled with frame damage is...well... a big no.
Regardless of how well you negotiate, you really are taking a crap shoot on this one.
Is this a risk?
