I have '94 with the non-lever climate control panel. The increase temp button is not working. Lower works fine, but it's stuck on 60° now because I can't raise it. The rest of the system is just fine, I just can't select a higher temp bc the button doesn't work. I'm thinking that it's just not making a good connection.

Instead of shelling out $300 on a used panel on eBay, has anyone had any success with digging into their existing panel and "refreshing" the buttons?

 

I’ve been successful cleaning the button contacts. It’s actually pretty easy. If you search the forum, I think there are good instructions available.

John

 

Here’s a video explaining how to fix it.

John

 

I had the same issue with some of the buttons not working. There is a You tube video that shows how to clean the contacts with a pencil eraser. I followed the video and everything works fine.

 

This may sound silly but it worked. I read where another owner simply sprayed window cleaner with ammonia on the buttons to clean them. Make sure to saturate the buttons, especially the areas between them.

I tried this a year ago and to my surprise it worked. Still working today. Cost little and if it will not work then little has been lost.

Best of luck.

 

I tried cleaning the contacts and it has worked well for my '94 and then for my '96.

I followed the instructions found in the thread below.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...on-repair.html

Good luck.

 

I followed that Youtube video and my climate control works perfectly now.

 

Do not worry about the button aesthetics. Be glad that the AC controller has a working LED display with all AC functions in working order!

 

There is a material called DEOXIT and it is one of the best ways of removing all the corrosion from contacts, points and switches. They make it in spray bottle and applicator bottle and it is available at Graingers (if you need it today) or on Amazon if you need it soon.

I use this material on my Corvettes because it really works and works well. I cleaned one side running light on a 1968 C3 and compared it at night and the difference was amazing. The light bulb burns brighter with clean connections, so I did the rest of the rear light sockets. This Deoxit will restore the sockets to like new performance even after 58 years of use.

The company who makes it claims it removes all the corrosion and leaves a residue to keep it from corroding again right away. They even suggest using it on worn relays as it can reduce the wear on the contacts. For virtually any electrical connection I would use the Deoxit to clean the surfaces of the contacts before connecting them up.


P.S. I also use the Deoxit on the bulb contacts to restore them to be free of corrosion.

 

Deoxit is great. So is CRC Contact Cleaner which is essentially the same thing at half the price. Both of those are used by guitar techs to clean up volume and tone potentiometers in the guitars and guitar amp techs use it to clean tube sockets and other potentiometers.

Also, you can get 99% Isopropyl Alcohol on Amazon and just irrigate the sh*t out of it with no fear of corrosion because it has next to no water in it. Done that on electrical contacts before with great success.

 

I have both the CRC products and the Deoxit on my shelf in my shop. I use both but on different jobs, the Deoxit for specific cleaning and the CRC for cleaning a larger area.

I use 91% alcohol for certain cleaning as well as others but prefer the little alcohol prep pads for cleaning. Having been playing with cars, boats, motorcycles and airplanes along with electronics and electrical stuff for over 50 years I prefer to use a #2 Pencil Eraser on most copper contacts if they are accessible. The #2 eraser works best and does little damage to the surfaces being cleaned. You just have to get rid of the rubber waste afterwards.

We had a gentleman on the C3 Forum who was using Die-Electric Grease on every electrical connection in his car and then he complains that nothing is working right. Great product but the WRONG USE of it. Trying to teach people that die-electric grease should only be used inside the spark plug wire's boot to prevent the rubber part of the spark plug cap from sticking to the porcelain on the plug has been tough. Die-electric grease actually blocks electricity where people assume by it's name that it is conductive. Die-Electric grease can keep a spark plug from firing if the die-electric grease is in between the spark and the plug. I suggest Battery Grease to many folks as this works better for protecting electrical connections.

Using the right material for the right job is important. Many people think I have too many cans on my shelves already but I make space for the good ones.

Thanks for enlightening me and doing so kindly. Being a big believer and supporter of Deoxit I had to suggest it as an option for the above posters.