jacking point
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: capac michigan
jacking point
hello i recently purchased a 92 lt1, this is my first corvette i am going to rotate the tires soon and will be putting the car on 4 jackstands i was wondering (never have jacked one of these cara) where do i lift using a floorjack?
thanks for any replies
thanks for any replies
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 13,356
Likes: 0
From: tucson AZ
St. Jude Donor '04 & '05
Re: jacking point (sfields1)
Take alook at your vette manual that came with the car....if you don't have it, go to the Corvette Fever web site and look up tech questions for your year vette...or any C4..
tony :thumbs:
tony :thumbs:
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 5,818
Likes: 2
From: Alive and well in Burlington NC
Re: jacking point (sfields1)
There are four jack points. Both fore and aft of the door. For the front, they are just under the "gill" panel. For the rear, they are just before the wheel opening. Each is marked by "Jack Point" stamp.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 389
Likes: 0
From: Micco FL
Re: jacking point (sfields1)
Welcome to the forum, there is no better place to get info and congradualtions on the purchase. I personally think you made the best decision on a year...but I'm bias.
Ditto to the above regarding jackinging. Remember you can only rotate front to back. No side to side unless you actually dismount the rubber from the rims. Also torque the lug nuts 100 fl/lb. Good luck.
Ditto to the above regarding jackinging. Remember you can only rotate front to back. No side to side unless you actually dismount the rubber from the rims. Also torque the lug nuts 100 fl/lb. Good luck.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 629
Likes: 0
From: Rutland Ma
Re: jacking point (sfields1)
At first your probably not going to believe that you are actually supposed to jack up on those vertical plies of metal but they are solid. With the floor jack in one of the jacking points watch your rocker panel that i doesn't get crushed. Oh and one more thing while jackstands are always good for safety Lifting the car in one of the jacking points (i use the front one) will lift one whole side of the car off the ground. I see no need to put the car on four jack stands as you will be able to remove both wheels at the same time.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 116
Likes: 1
From: San Jose CA
Re: jacking point (sfields1)
There are two ways to jack up the vette. The first is already described. There are two problems with it...
1) You can't place jack stands at the same points that you lift the car. So you end up placing either the jack or the jack stands close to but not at the jacking points because there isn't really enough room for both.
2) When the car is lifted by these jacking points individually, it puts twisting force on the car. It won't break the car, but it is not ideal. And it's been known to crack glass tops and windows (not common). These jacking points are really designed for repair bay hoists that lift all four points at once. Or to lift one corner of the car to change a tire in an emergency.
The alternative... and I believe better method... is to jack the car up from the front and back, and then place jack stands under the previously mentioned jack points at the corners. This method places no twisting force on the car at all.
Here are the steps:
#1 Place a couple of 2x6's under the front tires and drive up onto them. These are needed to raise the front of the vette enough to fit the scissor jack underneath. Some folks use the rhino ramps for this purpose.
#2 Push the jack under the front end. The jacking point is under the front suspension cross member. That is the big H shaped piece that the lower suspension arms attach to. Lift up the front of the car by it, and then place jack stands under the front labelled jacking points that are just behind the front tires.
#3 Push the jack under the rear end. The jacking point is under the real axle differential housing. You will probably need the jack-a-vette product (a $15 item I believe) that lets your jack reach up between the exhaust pipes to reach it. DON'T lift by the spring (that's the thick bar that runs across there. It looks like a solid piece, but it's made of fiberglass). Once you've lifted the rear end, place jack stands under the labelled jacking points just in front of the rear tires.
And there you go. The downside of this method is you need the jack-a-vette product. But it's pretty cheap. The advantages are that you put less strain on the vette... it's less nerve racking because you don't watch the car twist... you only have to jack 2 times rather than 4 times... plus you can leave the jack under the front and/or back as a safety in case your jack stands fail.
Btw... this method works especially quick and nice for oil changes. Just lift up the front of the car only and place the front jack stands. You jack just once and you're good to go. Very easy. Plus, as I understand it, with the car tilted back like that it gets more oil out of the engine when you drain it.
Hope that helps!
- Skant
1) You can't place jack stands at the same points that you lift the car. So you end up placing either the jack or the jack stands close to but not at the jacking points because there isn't really enough room for both.
2) When the car is lifted by these jacking points individually, it puts twisting force on the car. It won't break the car, but it is not ideal. And it's been known to crack glass tops and windows (not common). These jacking points are really designed for repair bay hoists that lift all four points at once. Or to lift one corner of the car to change a tire in an emergency.
The alternative... and I believe better method... is to jack the car up from the front and back, and then place jack stands under the previously mentioned jack points at the corners. This method places no twisting force on the car at all.
Here are the steps:
#1 Place a couple of 2x6's under the front tires and drive up onto them. These are needed to raise the front of the vette enough to fit the scissor jack underneath. Some folks use the rhino ramps for this purpose.
#2 Push the jack under the front end. The jacking point is under the front suspension cross member. That is the big H shaped piece that the lower suspension arms attach to. Lift up the front of the car by it, and then place jack stands under the front labelled jacking points that are just behind the front tires.
#3 Push the jack under the rear end. The jacking point is under the real axle differential housing. You will probably need the jack-a-vette product (a $15 item I believe) that lets your jack reach up between the exhaust pipes to reach it. DON'T lift by the spring (that's the thick bar that runs across there. It looks like a solid piece, but it's made of fiberglass). Once you've lifted the rear end, place jack stands under the labelled jacking points just in front of the rear tires.
And there you go. The downside of this method is you need the jack-a-vette product. But it's pretty cheap. The advantages are that you put less strain on the vette... it's less nerve racking because you don't watch the car twist... you only have to jack 2 times rather than 4 times... plus you can leave the jack under the front and/or back as a safety in case your jack stands fail.
Btw... this method works especially quick and nice for oil changes. Just lift up the front of the car only and place the front jack stands. You jack just once and you're good to go. Very easy. Plus, as I understand it, with the car tilted back like that it gets more oil out of the engine when you drain it.
Hope that helps!
- Skant
Racer
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 341
Likes: 1
From: Cave Creek AZ
Re: jacking point (Skant)
Skant, I have never used the labelled jacking points. They look like the rocker panels will be damaged if you use them. What is the proper technique?
I use your A Frame method up front. Then I support along the seams just behind the front or just forward of the rear wheels. The GM manual shows these positions as the ones to use when jacking with a floor jack. Jacking the Vette makes me nervous. I'm afraid of damaging something. Any hints are appreciated. :)
I use your A Frame method up front. Then I support along the seams just behind the front or just forward of the rear wheels. The GM manual shows these positions as the ones to use when jacking with a floor jack. Jacking the Vette makes me nervous. I'm afraid of damaging something. Any hints are appreciated. :)
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,168
Likes: 16
From: Phoenix AZ
Re: jacking point (Skant)
#1 Place a couple of 2x6's under the front tires and drive up onto them. These are needed to raise the front of the vette enough to fit the scissor jack underneath. Some folks use the rhino ramps for this purpose.
[Modified by vetracer, 4:43 PM 1/20/2003]
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
From: Torrance California
Re: jacking point (Skant)
There are two ways to jack up the vette. The first is already described. There are two problems with it...
1) You can't place jack stands at the same points that you lift the car. So you end up placing either the jack or the jack stands close to but not at the jacking points because there isn't really enough room for both.
2) When the car is lifted by these jacking points individually, it puts twisting force on the car. It won't break the car, but it is not ideal. And it's been known to crack glass tops and windows (not common). These jacking points are really designed for repair bay hoists that lift all four points at once. Or to lift one corner of the car to change a tire in an emergency.
The alternative... and I believe better method... is to jack the car up from the front and back, and then place jack stands under the previously mentioned jack points at the corners. This method places no twisting force on the car at all.
Here are the steps:
#1 Place a couple of 2x6's under the front tires and drive up onto them. These are needed to raise the front of the vette enough to fit the scissor jack underneath. Some folks use the rhino ramps for this purpose.
#2 Push the jack under the front end. The jacking point is under the front suspension cross member. That is the big H shaped piece that the lower suspension arms attach to. Lift up the front of the car by it, and then place jack stands under the front labelled jacking points that are just behind the front tires.
#3 Push the jack under the rear end. The jacking point is under the real axle differential housing. You will probably need the jack-a-vette product (a $15 item I believe) that lets your jack reach up between the exhaust pipes to reach it. DON'T lift by the spring (that's the thick bar that runs across there. It looks like a solid piece, but it's made of fiberglass). Once you've lifted the rear end, place jack stands under the labelled jacking points just in front of the rear tires.
And there you go. The downside of this method is you need the jack-a-vette product. But it's pretty cheap. The advantages are that you put less strain on the vette... it's less nerve racking because you don't watch the car twist... you only have to jack 2 times rather than 4 times... plus you can leave the jack under the front and/or back as a safety in case your jack stands fail.
Btw... this method works especially quick and nice for oil changes. Just lift up the front of the car only and place the front jack stands. You jack just once and you're good to go. Very easy. Plus, as I understand it, with the car tilted back like that it gets more oil out of the engine when you drain it.
Hope that helps!
- Skant
1) You can't place jack stands at the same points that you lift the car. So you end up placing either the jack or the jack stands close to but not at the jacking points because there isn't really enough room for both.
2) When the car is lifted by these jacking points individually, it puts twisting force on the car. It won't break the car, but it is not ideal. And it's been known to crack glass tops and windows (not common). These jacking points are really designed for repair bay hoists that lift all four points at once. Or to lift one corner of the car to change a tire in an emergency.
The alternative... and I believe better method... is to jack the car up from the front and back, and then place jack stands under the previously mentioned jack points at the corners. This method places no twisting force on the car at all.
Here are the steps:
#1 Place a couple of 2x6's under the front tires and drive up onto them. These are needed to raise the front of the vette enough to fit the scissor jack underneath. Some folks use the rhino ramps for this purpose.
#2 Push the jack under the front end. The jacking point is under the front suspension cross member. That is the big H shaped piece that the lower suspension arms attach to. Lift up the front of the car by it, and then place jack stands under the front labelled jacking points that are just behind the front tires.
#3 Push the jack under the rear end. The jacking point is under the real axle differential housing. You will probably need the jack-a-vette product (a $15 item I believe) that lets your jack reach up between the exhaust pipes to reach it. DON'T lift by the spring (that's the thick bar that runs across there. It looks like a solid piece, but it's made of fiberglass). Once you've lifted the rear end, place jack stands under the labelled jacking points just in front of the rear tires.
And there you go. The downside of this method is you need the jack-a-vette product. But it's pretty cheap. The advantages are that you put less strain on the vette... it's less nerve racking because you don't watch the car twist... you only have to jack 2 times rather than 4 times... plus you can leave the jack under the front and/or back as a safety in case your jack stands fail.
Btw... this method works especially quick and nice for oil changes. Just lift up the front of the car only and place the front jack stands. You jack just once and you're good to go. Very easy. Plus, as I understand it, with the car tilted back like that it gets more oil out of the engine when you drain it.
Hope that helps!
- Skant
:thumbs:
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Sharpsburg Ga
Re: jacking point (Ramrod92)
Can you rotate the tire&rims front to back. My Rears are 9.5" wide while my fronts are only 8.5" Mine is a '94, I don't know if this is different on the '92 or not. The only way I have found to rotate the tire is to pull them all off and get the rubber swapped from side to side. at least this way you change your inside and outside wear points. :confused:
