lt4 headers advice
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 253
Likes: 11
lt4 headers advice
Hello I have a bone stock 96 lt4 car that I would like to add headers to. I however would like the most pain free installation possible and would prefer to get headers that allow for this. I would like to not go nuts on cost but I will if it means easier install. I do not wish to have to bend pipes or fabricate brackets. I have heard TPIS and ARH are like this but TPIS is not available and ARH says something about needing an oil filter adapter on their website. Can anyone who was recently installed ARH confirm this? Or recommend any other options! Thanks!!!
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,713
Likes: 550
From: Seattle Washington
I installed Hooker 1 3/4" on my 1990 L98. They make a couple different models and ones for Angle Plug Heads and Straight Plug. It is confusing because they are referring to the Factory D Port Cylinder Heads witch have the Angled Plugs. So the real difference is the Header Flanges and what shape the Ports are. I used aftermarket Heads with straight Plugs and the Spark Plug Caps are very close to the Headers even though I did my share of Torch and Socket bending. Had I only used angle Plug Heads I wouldn't of had to do a thing. Other than that they bolted right on. Any 1 3/4 Header is going to be very tight where the Head bolts go in.
On another note when removing the Lower A Arm bolts one must remove a Factory stiffener bar to get the Bolt out. No big deal till you put Headers on because now you can not reach one of the bolts with out removing the right side Header ! But if You plan ahead just bore a hole in the stiffener bar at the right spot for the Bolt to slip threw and you can just leave the Header alone.
On another note when removing the Lower A Arm bolts one must remove a Factory stiffener bar to get the Bolt out. No big deal till you put Headers on because now you can not reach one of the bolts with out removing the right side Header ! But if You plan ahead just bore a hole in the stiffener bar at the right spot for the Bolt to slip threw and you can just leave the Header alone.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,706
Likes: 485
From: Everett WA
C4 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
I've had Stainless Works headers & RT cats into the stock cat-back exhaust on my 95 for more than a dozen years now. Sounds great and no fitment or leak issues. No pipes had to be bent no brackets had to be fabricated but ........ they were not inexpensive back then and they are not inexpensive today. My suggestion is that you save your pennies until you can afford a top quality set.
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Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,713
Likes: 550
From: Seattle Washington
Is the AC system still charged and working ? I'm pretty sure there is a way to unbolt the components and set them aside with out loosing the Freon. Mine was long gone and I was going AC delete so a Sawzall was implemented. I had to unbolt the starter but not remove it. The last bolt in the header flange can be challenging. Since I removed the Evaporator from my car I can actually see this bolt quite easy.
5th Gear
Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Is the AC system still charged and working ? I'm pretty sure there is a way to unbolt the components and set them aside with out loosing the Freon. Mine was long gone and I was going AC delete so a Sawzall was implemented. I had to unbolt the starter but not remove it. The last bolt in the header flange can be challenging. Since I removed the Evaporator from my car I can actually see this bolt quite easy.